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  #16  
Old 01-30-2014, 07:39 PM
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Is replacing the boot basically the same as replacing a CV boot on a modern car? Is this something that most mechanics are used to doing?

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  #17  
Old 01-30-2014, 08:02 PM
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Need this tool?

Reading your posts I think this may be the tool someone would need to install the original style factory staples for a split boot installation. If you decide to go with the staples designed for the job and need this tool private message me, I would rent it out with a deposit covering the tool. Whatever you decide I hope you can get things fixed.

Clicking on these thumbnails will bring up a bigger image.




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  #18  
Old 01-30-2014, 08:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obamalamadingdong View Post
Reading your posts I think this may be the tool someone would need to install the original style factory staples for a split boot installation. If you decide to go with the staples designed for the job and need this tool private message me, I would rent it out with a deposit covering the tool. Whatever you decide I hope you can get things fixed.
I appreciate that. I'm having difficulty imagining exactly how that tool works. Do you have a staple that you could photograph in the tool so that my mind can understand this?
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  #19  
Old 01-30-2014, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC View Post
I appreciate that. I'm having difficulty imagining exactly how that tool works. Do you have a staple that you could photograph in the tool so that my mind can understand this?
Sorry I don't have any of the staples but looking at the repair manual Job No. 35-9 the split cuff is placed in position, then the two metal strips are placed into grooves in both upper and lower sides of the cuff's opening, then the special staples are used to secure the upper and lower metal stripps into place as they secure the cuff's opening closed. The metal strips are used to align the rubber cuff's two edges so that they go together as designed and therefore don't leak.

If you don't already have one I'm posting a manual that covers these cars in the parts for sale section shortly, hope you get it fixed right.

I just took this picure of what's in the repair manual:

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  #20  
Old 02-01-2014, 01:36 AM
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I think I would very much like to rent your special pliers. I notice that yours is at a right angle, while the one in the picture is straight in. Does it matter?
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  #21  
Old 02-01-2014, 02:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC View Post
I think I would very much like to rent your special pliers. I notice that yours is at a right angle, while the one in the picture is straight in. Does it matter?

After posting the pictures I noticed that also! A closer inspection of the pliers that I have seems to show that the ends had been removed their orientation changed and then the were braised on in that new position! I have no idea as to why or when it was done, I'd acquired them along with a large array of publications and parts 6 or 7 years ago. I'd seen a similar pair of pliers identified by their weird ends in an eBay listing a couple of years ago, in the listing it mentioned their specific use as well as the specific staple set, I'd actually wrote down the part number for the staple set (of course that's been lost in the blizzard of little notes to myself over the years!).

I could imagine that the way the ends are now it might make crimping the staples inside the cuff's corragations a bit more difficult, but that really depends on how deep the corragations are, I'd suspect. And it might be that they were modified to allow them to be used from the side that way the part that usually needs to be removed in order to get at the cuff from straight behind can stay in place. I haven't ever used them, so I can't tell.

I'd have no objection to someone re-re-positioning them back to the original configuration either!
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  #22  
Old 02-03-2014, 03:16 PM
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The old potons gas tank is very close to the boot. The angle would make it easier, but still not easy to do. I do the non split boots now. Lots of work. Use extra stapels if you use the split boot?
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  #23  
Old 02-09-2014, 10:36 PM
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Well it was a productive and exciting weekend working on the Fintail. Front and rear brakes are now completely finished and bled. Yeah! Fuel lines are cleaned as well as I'm going to clean them. Yeah! Carbs have been partially taken apart and cleaned inside, accelerator pumps still don't work. Boo! Using a gas can as the source and return for the fuel system the car runs much better and definitely needs more carb work and a tune-up. Changed the plugs.

AND removed the compensating spring (somewhat of a pain in the ass) and removed the old hard yucky CV boot. See attached picture. Then I drained the differential and was glad that what came out was clean and disappointed at how little came out. I suspect since my axles are both dropped to the lowest point that when I elevate them again I will get more of the old gear oil. The manual says that it takes 2.5 L of SAE 90, I probably got about 1/2 L at the most out of the diff, probably less. And then I ran out of time. :-(

So next weekend is drain the axle tubes, install the boot (hopefully not so horrible), put the spring back in, fill the diff, put the wheels with new tires back on, and put a gas can in the trunk and run the gas through the original fuel lines. And drive it around the block! Whoopie!!!!
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Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-oldcvboot.jpg  
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  #24  
Old 02-10-2014, 12:49 PM
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It's a good idea to use some super glue in the boot joint to keep it from leaking. And make sure you install it in the direction the manual shows. Have fun.
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  #25  
Old 02-10-2014, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dobrodan View Post
It's a good idea to use some super glue in the boot joint to keep it from leaking. And make sure you install it in the direction the manual shows. Have fun.
...so much controversy on this topic. The manual says no glue or adhesive and seam facing the rear. Others say yes to glue and no to glue. Others say put the seam on top (which makes me wonder how you would staple it). Others say super glue gel (which I don't know what is).
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  #26  
Old 02-11-2014, 01:30 PM
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So excited that I worked on it in the semi-dark (with a light) after work yesterday. Put on the front wheels and dropped front to the ground. Put on rear wheels and jacked up car high enough so that I could put ramps under the wheels. So now the car is resting on elevated rear wheels so the axles aren't hanging down anymore (which I think is a prerequisite to installing the boot). Tonight I'll crawl around and start seeing how much room I have for installing the boot, staples, and clamps... I doubt I will actually start installing it but I'll clean up whatever grime is in the area.

I'm debating on whose instructions to follow. MB says no glue, seam facing the rear. And MB says it's OK for it to seep a little. Seems like it would seep much less if the seam were higher and/or adhesive were used along the boot joint. So I'm not decided on that. As for adhesive for the boot to the differential and axle, that seems wrong - it would be like gluing a hose before using a hose clamp. So I'm not going to glue that.

Any additional opinions re: adhesive and seam direction are welcome.
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  #27  
Old 02-13-2014, 12:02 AM
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I installed my boot!!!

I have installed my boot! It wasn't so bad after all, given that the car was already positioned in the air (supported by the rear wheels) and the compensating spring and gas tank were out, my time spent was probably about an hour or a little more.

In the end I decided to use adhesive for both the axle tube/diff area and for the seam. I used gel super glue as suggested for the seam. Attached photo shows the specific products I used.

A couple of notes (which I may write up as a section for the sl113 technical manual):

1. The manual (MB BBB) says not to use adhesive. In my situation I found the larger of the two clamps (the one that holds the boot to the differential) to not clamp as tight as I would like. If I didn't use adhesive I can imagine that a lot of fluid would seep from here.

2. The manual says to use the special pliers. If you use adhesive on the ends, it would be impossible to use the pliers for all of the staples as you can't get the pliers in place for those last couple of staples on the axle side with the seam facing the rear as instructed. Since the manual is saying not to use adhesive, I suppose you could rotate the boot into the position of seam facing rear after stapling and then put on the clamps.

3. The larger of the two clamps (new style not long metal band old style) (both available from MB) is in my opinion too large. I'll talk with the Classic Center about this tomorrow... It will be easy enough to replace or pad the boot in some manner to make the clamp more snug if needed.

4. I wouldn't dream of trying this with the compensating spring still in place. And to get the compensating spring out I needed to lower the axles farther than the shock absorber would allow, so I was careful when removing the bottom of the shock to not allow this to stretch the brake hose.

5. I would not attempt this task using the MB staples (which are available) unless I had the corresponding MB pliers, which I was fortunate enough to rent. I also think that the MB staples are a better solution than the hog ring pliers solution that others have used.

6. The right two staples I had to do by bending the lower part of the staple and positioning it and then bending the top part of the staple with needle nose pliers. On the far right staple (the one under the clamp) I placed a small screwdriver under the staple on top of the rubber boot and tapped that with a hammer to secure it. Unfortunately that was possible on the next staple as there was not a solid metal base behind it.

Photos attached of the end result. I'm not entirely happy with the right two staples but we'll see if this works. I'll add oil in a day or two to the differential...
Attached Thumbnails
Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-axlebootwithstaples.jpg   Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-axlebootwithstaplesandclamps.jpg   Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-axlebootadhesives.jpg  
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  #28  
Old 02-13-2014, 07:58 PM
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How embarrassing. It is only after I look at the flash-photography photograph that I notice that the staple inside the left most valley isn't inside the lip on the underside. Oh well, I have to shim out the left clamp anyway to make it tighter...
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  #29  
Old 02-13-2014, 11:48 PM
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I have fixed my staple mistake by removing it and reinstalling it using small needle nose pliers. Then I took my large clamp off to shim it out. I used two layers of rubber tape, it's like electrical tape except thicker. See pics. Now it is reassembled and nice and snug. I filled the diff with oil (after returning to the auto parts place twice to exchange the oil pump that broke after about 4 presses, finally getting just a tube fitting with no pump to fill the diff) and now it's sitting for the next step which will probably be to put the compensating spring back in, although technically this is supposed to be done before filling the diff....
Attached Thumbnails
Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-axelbootwithstaplefixed.jpg   Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-clamponerubberstrip.jpg   Wanted: S. California mobile mechanic to install CV boot W111-clamptworubberstrips.jpg  
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  #30  
Old 02-15-2014, 10:12 PM
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I drove the car for the first time. Fantastic! No leaking that I have seen except a few drops of coolant. I got the car up to about 80 and went a distance of 6 miles. I'm a happy camper tonight.

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