Axle won't go in - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #46 09-09-2014, 05:24 PM

Running out of ideas...

...how about the fitting of the axle into the differential? How far in has it gone?

Did the C-clip fit in snugly when you fitted it?

If you pull the axle end away from the wheel (hub) can you feel any wiggle space if you wiggle the end of the axle that is fitted to the differential?

ggenovez · #47 09-09-2014, 05:54 PM

Axle goes in all the way. Clip secures it. Nice and snug. No wiggling.

If there is no way to lower the hub beyond the stop. Would I be able to separate the differential, install the axles and then re-attach the differential?

ggenovez · #48 09-09-2014, 06:00 PM

What about removing the whole subframe? is that an option?

Getting desperate here...

Stretch · #49 09-10-2014, 01:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggenovez

Axle goes in all the way. Clip secures it. Nice and snug. No wiggling.

If there is no way to lower the hub beyond the stop. Would I be able to separate the differential, install the axles and then re-attach the differential?

I've thought of two not so great options.

1) Cut the stop off! Downside is that you then have trouble when lifting the car - possible damage to trailing arm bushings, the brake hose, shock and anti-rollbar ends because the spring and the weight of the wheel and trailing arm will want to go down as the car goes up.

2) Remove the differential and lower that much lower than the wheel hubs so that you can fit the axle "the other way"...

...in practice this will mean =>

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggenovez

What about removing the whole subframe? is that an option?

Getting desperate here...

<= removal of the subframe is in my opinion the easiest way to reach the bolts that hold the differential in place.

In the absence of damage to the trailing arms or the subframe I've still got a feeling something is wrong with the axle or the fitting of the axle.

Stick the transmission in neutral and turn the axle in the differential round to a new position and try again - listen for any scraping sounds as the axle is turned...

ggenovez · #50 09-10-2014, 09:17 AM

Stretch.

The problem with the axle is on both sides. I can tell you that the trunk of my 250 says 250C. My guess it is has been in some form of an accident. and possible the subframe was installed from a different model.

What are the steps to remove the subframe?

Or should I cut off the stops, install the axles and weld them back on?

Stretch · #51 09-10-2014, 09:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggenovez

Stretch.

The problem with the axle is on both sides. I can tell you that the trunk of my 250 says 250C. My guess it is has been in some form of an accident. and possible the subframe was installed from a different model.

What are the steps to remove the subframe?

Or should I cut off the stops, install the axles and weld them back on?

Even if it was a subframe from a different model the axles should fit. Looking at the EPC part numbers the R107 / W114 / W115 / W123 / first gen W126 trailing arms are all compatible. All of the axles are the same too - except for the W126 which is a wider vehicle. Add this information to how the geometry of the subframe trailing arms and differential works =>

The differential is rigidly fitted to the subframe - the trailing arms move up and down from their fixing points on the subframe - and the stops on the trailing arms are the only bits that stop the trailing arms from falling when the car is lifted.

<= any damage to the rear of the vehicle would have had to be pretty severe to knacker the subframe - this is the only bit that matters with respect to fitting the axles - the bodywork is irrelevant (in this case).

The nicest and kindest solution is to remove the subframe rather than cutting the stops.

You've posted the procedure for removing the subframe yourself earlier on in the thread. It is a lot of work...

...I'd be making sure that the axles are fitted all the way into the differential...

...I'd be turning the axles round to different positions to make sure there isn't an awkward geometrical lock effect in the axle stopping it from going in position...

Carpenterman · #52 09-10-2014, 10:52 AM

Has anyone suggested removing the differential mount and lifting the differential that extra little bit?

Or maybe that wouldn't work if the trailing arms are already at their stops. Might be just enough flex in the assembly to get the axles in.

ggenovez · #53 09-10-2014, 11:40 AM

Thanks Carpenterman, I've already tried that. The subframe moves up with the differential and there is 0 change in clerance.

Stretch, What about only removing the 2 bolts that hold each of the trailing arms? That should allow me to pull back the trailing arms. install the CV and the slide it back.

Thoughts?

Stretch · #54 09-10-2014, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggenovez

...
Stretch, What about only removing the 2 bolts that hold each of the trailing arms? That should allow me to pull back the trailing arms. install the CV and the slide it back.

Thoughts?

Also in principle a possibility but I (silently) discounted that because they are a total pain in the arse to reach with the subframe fitted. If you drop the subframe however...

...see what I mean?

ggenovez · #55 09-10-2014, 01:28 PM

ok, was there supposed to be a photo?

Stretch · #56 09-10-2014, 01:31 PM

No sorry - I was saying you more or less need to remove the subframe to get to those pesky bolts on the trailing arms.

The dots were showing a vicious circle...

ggenovez · #57 09-10-2014, 01:35 PM

ok, how much work (hours) is it to remove the subframe?

To be honest, cutting and welding the stops is looking more and more promising.

Stretch · #58 09-10-2014, 01:46 PM

I'd expect at least half a day to wizz by for the first time you do it. I reckon I could now do the job within an hour having done it so many times and so long as I didn't end up with serious rust related trouble.

ggenovez · #59 09-10-2014, 01:59 PM

ok, I was reading your "rear subframe removal..." and you state

"well I didn't fancy scraping knuckles on the underside of the car to reach the four bolts that are attached to the sub frame so I finally managed to get the prop shaft out and pulled the diff and sub frame out together from under the car."

Am I safe to assume that I am at the point where I only have to disconnect the prop shaft and remove 4 bolts?

Stretch · #60 09-10-2014, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ggenovez

ok, I was reading your "rear subframe removal..." and you state

"well I didn't fancy scraping knuckles on the underside of the car to reach the four bolts that are attached to the sub frame so I finally managed to get the prop shaft out and pulled the diff and sub frame out together from under the car."

Am I safe to assume that I am at the point where I only have to disconnect the prop shaft and remove 4 bolts?

Well because the anti-roll bar and the shocks and the and the exhaust and the calipers have already been disconnected you only have to worry about the parking brake cables the four bolts on the differential mount and the two large bullet-like bolts for the main part of the subframe mount and the other two bolts (2 sets of) for the mount stiffener as well as the propshaft connections.

You will struggle with the rear springs pushing against you - if you can't lift the car high enough you are best off removing them with a spring compressor. They are also difficult to fit if you don't have a compressor.