OK. One thing to note: I don't _think_ this is an issue on a 108 but some earlier cars have both a chassis number and a body number stamped into the car. Make sure you use the chassis number.

The old style fuel pump is NLA and the later style IS the replacement for LOTS of cars, including my 1960 and 1963 W111 sedans... Again, price will be from $50 to $200 depending on where you buy it. This part probably will _not_ have an MB part number on it FWIW unless you want to spend a lot more money.

How did you get a picture of my car? I think it is still in the garage where I last parked it .

Mine is a '72 with 57K, purchased new by my parents and sat unused for many years until last year when I brought it back to life. It runs great and is very strong. I well remember one day in the '70s when my mother returned home and casually remarked that she had been doing a steady 125 on the eastern end of the Long Island Expressway. Enjoy the car, it is worth everything you put into it.

What a beauty! I love this green-black colour.

Updates:

Starting tearing around the old hoses. Seems like some PO had a funny way of fixing things: chop them off like gangrened limbs. Some are plain weird like the screw I found plugging the crankcase vent hole in the air filter cover even though a hose was attached. Mercmad63 is probably right on the cause of the leaks.

I'll let the pictures talk and refer to them for questions.

Rear compensator and super-leaky diff

Left rear axle

Right rear axle

Moving to the engine bay, there's a disconnected hose sticking straight up between the carbs. It connects in the intake manifold pipe with a giant plug on it. Probably a juicy vacuum leak. What's it for?

Mystery hose

Another member of the chopping block club, this little vacuum hose running along the front of the valve cover. It plugs beneath the forward carb in the intake manifold. It's not the vacuum advance line.

Sealed vacuum hose

Also, what's this thing with two cups that's rusted into oblivion? It looks like things moved a long time ago. Today it looks like it was salvaged off the Titanic.

Weird cups

Lastly, I want to take the carbs off to rebuild them. How can I get the rear inward nuts off? No normal or offset wrench of mine can even get a hold of those nuts.

I've removed the fuel pump as well. I'll tear it open and inspect the diaphragm. It might be ok - the older raised pumps appear to insulate the oil from the gas a bit better if the diaphragm leaks.

There is a guy on Benzworld who wants a lowered look at the expense of negative camber. Possibly you can buy his compensating spring AND BRACKET if you need to go that route. Here's the thread. It's really painful.

Weird Noise in rear suspension - Page 4 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

You need to find out where on the diff it is leaking. If it's from the CV boot then you replace it. If it is not from the CV boot then I others who know more will tell you what you need to do.

Check and see what hose is running to the brake booster. If there isn't one, it goes to this fitting.

If your fuel pump works well, I wouldn't touch the thing. If it doesn't, I would replace it. Unfortunately your old fuel pump is probably a threaded fitting to the carbs, and the new ones are slide-on hose, which means you have to cut the rigid line with the fitting or find some sort of adapter.

Rear axle time is this weekend. I'm going in there, inspecting things and resealing the calipers, replacing rotors, pads and shoes. One of the rear brakes sprung a leak somewhere at the wheel end, causing the fluid on the rear circuit to drain out. I'm suspecting caliper seal at the side that was overheated and smoking repeatedly.

The brake booster hose connects at the rear of the manifold. Connects is a strong word as it was sitting flabbily on its connector and it came off with a dirty look. The one between the carbs is for something else.

I really hope that I don't have to remove the manifold to get to the rear nut on the carbs. The nuts look like they are beyond rusted into place. Any suggestions for this one?

Check the price on re-built calipers before you repair your existing ones. They might be cheap.

You don't have to remove the manifold to remove the rear nuts. You just need a different wrench and to go in from a different angle. It is an odd place for there to be rust. More typically they would be covered with grease and oil. Can you not get a box wrench (or better, a flare nut wrench) over the nut from the side parallel to the valve cover? Might want to spray them now with penetrating oil and try in a couple of days...

Legacy asset stories of low-miled, owned-since-NEW MBs are indeed rare around here.

Thanks for sharing!

Pull the valve cover to get at the hard-to-reach carb mounting nuts, keep the manifold in place. Looks like it could use a scrub.

Lots of info here on Zenith Carbs.

More progress.

Thanks to the tips here, I got to the rear nuts and the carbs are off. They look pretty sad. Secondaries appear stuck shut on both. Chokes kinda work. I'm surprised the car drove so well and had plenty of power. Impressive. Rebuild on the weekend. Any gotchas to worry about with the Zeniths? They look complex but relatively straightforward.

Fuel pump is probably half the source of the oil leaks. Pulled the plunger and 2 ounces of oil came out. Doesn't seem like there should be any getting into it.

I think I made a mistake though, I'll let the pictures speak. When pulling the valve cover, I wanted to get the hose bracket out of the way and removed the big bolt holding it. Once the valve cover came off, I saw the slack in the chain and I'm wondering if I somehow pulled the tensioner bolt messing it up.

Big slack with the culprit bolt on the bottom just under the vacuum line

On the bright side, the cams look pretty good:

Cam lobes

I'm a little scared of the chain slack. Did I inadvertently mess with the tensioner, and how can I reset it?

Zenith carbs have a lot of gotchas, unfortunately. Take your time, use the right parts and doublecheck thine work.

Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and flat (tops can warp due to heat and overtightening of air cleaner that sits above).

Here's the standard carb manual.

Mercedes Benz Zenith Carb Manual | JaimeKop.com

Exploded image showing all parts:

http://www.strichacht-forum.de/knowhow-v2/images/e/ed/Zenith_uebersicht-01.jpg

Some other pages I found helpful during recent rebuild, via translated page immer Deutsche - these are slightly different carbs (32/40 vs 35/40), but 99% of the info is pertinent:

Zenith: Removal, Cleaning and Adjusting - / 8-KnowHow

Carburetor

Zenith: Setup Instructions - / 8-KnowHow

Thanks for the links, they are quite detailed. Google always kills me with the translations: "The average mother in these plastic connecting rods is the way of the idle screw." Say what now?

Thoughts on the fuel pump? Is it normal for them to pick up oil for some internal lubrication?

I have no personal experience with the 6cyl engines but that LOOKS like either the wrong chain guide, or it's installed wrong. I would imagine that the top hole should have the top pin in it?

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You're right, it does look odd. Had another look and there are two more pins further down in the cylinder head that hold it. Has very little play.

Can someone with M130 experience chime in with some guidance? I'd like to bolt up the carbs today or tomorrow and fire her up.

Simple,there is no pin in the top hole,it's a part which is used in other engines.

To Check how much slack is in the chain ; Turn the engine over until the notch in the washer behind the cam sprocket lines up with the raised line on #1 cam bearing tower . Then, (and do this in this order) look at the timing marks on the crankshaft damper. The pointer needs to be pointing close to the '0' mark or just past it. It it reads 5 or more ,possibly more in your case, the chain needs replacing. It's not a difficult job,but you need to order the correct chain * ,a new tensioner,tensioner gasket and thermostat housing gasket ,plus the small rubber connecting hose under the thermostat gasket. You dont need to worry about the timing chain guide rails,they rarely wear.

*Several times lately I have had to sort out customers engines after they tried to fit chains they bought on line. Many of these chains are cheap Chicom products which are so badly made they are too long,so buy a genuine part and save yourself some aggravation.

I will check the timing marks next time I'm at the car. My concern is the fat bolt that I stupidly removed - goes thru the front of the cylinder head, the tensioner and thru a spring. It has a regular washer and a castelated washer on the outside and acts at the bottom bolt of the bracket holding the fuel lines.

I want to make sure I reinstall it correctly before I turn the engine. Does it have to be at a particular torque or setting, or just snug?