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#1
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No lights in my 1967 200 W110 Gauge cluster
1967 200 w110 gasoline
The lights illuminating the oil pressure, speedometer, and right blinker have stopped working completely. I took the entire cluster out after reading some instructions here. But none of the bulbs seem to be burnt out and i dont see any frayed or disconnected wires. im stumped to what the problem could be, the fuse is intact, the left blinker, fuel gauge light, gl, st,fl lights all work just the center and top right dont. Also to note there is a problem with my right blinker and brake light in the back of the car sometimes work and sometimes dont....i dont know how to remedy that either. Aaaand my fuel level gauge doesnt work either, but the light does..i dont know ho to solve that one as well. Any one have any guidance for a stumped novice? [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG] Last edited by mr110; 08-01-2014 at 11:34 AM. |
#2
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What year and what model?
you have to look closely at the copper traces , and check for continuity , they can fail , but can be repaired with jumpers , another area to check is the connection of the common bundle of wires both at the speedo unit and wear it ties into main harness
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#3
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it is a 1967 200 w110 petrol.
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#4
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I would start by testing for current at the bulb holders to see which side of the circuit is faulty. You may have a ground problem so check for continuity.
Same with the fuel gauge. If it's getting both sides of the circuit and not responding, the gauge is bad. If it's not getting the positive side of the circuit, then it's the sending unit or the wiring between.
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1981 300TD 310k miles 1970 280sel 172k miles 1966 230 Fintail 162k miles "Where are we going? And why am I in this hand basket?" |
#5
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im am extremely inexperienced with electrical problem solving, any way you could explain a little deeper as to how to do this...or maybe link to a tutorial.
thanks. |
#6
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So when you "Check for continuity" you need an ammeter or a multimeter. They're fairly cheap, I've had the same one for about 10 years now, use it often and it's still on the original battery...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Morris-Products-57030-Digital-Multimeter-with-Rubber-Holster-/310871446330?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item486161d33a You turn the dial to the red setting on the bottom right with the speaker icon. Black lead in the center (COM) hole, red lead in the right (V ohm mA). Place the tip of the black lead on the power source, the tip of the right lead on the bulb socket corresponding, and listen for a beep. No beep means either you picked the wrong source, the wrong side of the socket, or there's a broken connection between the power source and the bulb socket. Test both socket leads on each corresponding power source. If you need more detail, you'd need more detailed pics of the circuitry so someone can use a photo editor to point out where to test. You should be able to figure it out though by looking backwards from the light socket to the power source. I am not familiar with the 110 cluster but I see what looks like wire repair on the top right, and that'd be the first place I look for an issue.
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