bout to put some atf in the transmission an see if it will go into gear

Although it is a lot of work you might jack up the rear of the car and see if your rear tires will turn when the transmission is in neutral. It is possible that you had a stuck brake caliper or a broken emergency brake shoe keeping you from moving.

Chock the front wheels to keep the thing from rolling away and then lift up the back end so both wheels are off the ground. Put the trans in neutral and see if the wheels turn freely. If not then you have a problem but it is not in your transmission.

And if they do then you can move on to the transmission knowing that the rest of the drivetrain is OK.

But your trouble could be in your brakes, the rear carrier, the center driveshaft carrier bearing or a wheel bearing.

Make sure you are checking the fluid level properly, and filling it to the correct level. You do NOT want to fill it to the "FULL" or "MAX" mark when the engine is cold. That will overfill the transmission. See this link to a PDF showing how to check it:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/123771d1407794578-ok-top-atf-fluid-trans-fluid-check-auto-123-120.pdf

You'll want to confirm yourself, but I'm pressure sure what you're looking for is for the fluid level to be 30mm below the LOW mark when the transmission is cold, or right at the FULL mark when the transmission is at operating temp.

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Hello,

I wanted to give a quick update. I feel some relief that my mercedes transmission is cooperating with me now. This morning I followed you guys instructions on getting the fluid correct before throwing parts and money at the car. Im glad I followed yalls instructions. It drives much better now. first i drained fluid with a pump & hose. I then started filling the transmission slowly a half a quart at the time with the rear end racked up on jacks. I would go in the car an cycle thru all the gears an let the wheels spin. Slow but surely it started responding an acting right. I kept taking dipstick measurements but I never got much fluid on the dipstick unless I turned car off. After lowering the car I began driving around the block an continuing to put more fluid in till the flaring or slipping went away. The car goes into every gear immmeaditly now except for D. R, S, and L are fine. A little delay in D. Maybe because it starts out in second I dont know. Overall I am happy. The final dipstick readings are a hair over full when engine off and barely on the tip way below the lower empty line when running. I hope I did a good job of explaining. I estimate I put like 5 quarts in. I stopped because it was over the full mark when engine is off. Also I stopped because its driving good. Now that I know the transmission is ok I do not mind flushing the transmission system an changing the filter, pan gasket, ect.....

Im having funnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

Also to "IDLE" poster

I did have a wheel locked up but it was not the back. After I conducted your test I was still interested in why I come to a quicker stop as I described earlier with the locking up description. After driving the car I walked around to all the wheels an the front right passenger side wheel was hotter then the rest. My next step is to remove that wheel & see if its the caliper locked up or something else.

Thanks

Front wheel problems like this are rather easy and cheap to repair. It might be wheel bearings, which are cheap, and it might be the caliper is not retracting like is should. These calipers are also not too expensive.

If one wheel is much hotter than the other then it is time to look into it. You will need a set of allen wrenches to remove the front outer wheel bearing. It could be all they need is to be repacked with grease.

10-4 appreciate the suggestions. Will get started on that tommorow.

Found a great video on the job an thought Id share:

Mercedes 300D 300SD 300TD 300SD Brake Pads, Rotors, Sensors, etc. - YouTube

got my caliper, rotor, hub off an all took apart. Decided to do other side while I was at it. I order new rotors, pads for both sides.

I have to get a new caliper for the right front. Im dreading the cost of this. Considered rebuilding my caliper but since piston(s) wont budge from the seaclamp test, I thought Id just get another caliper.

Question:

Is it ok that I replace one front caliper but not the other front one?

I would not suggest that, find a set of remanufactured that is the best way to go

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Consider changing the flexible brake lines while you're in there - cheap and they can cause a myriad of brake problems.

boy ole boy did i make a big mistake on the drivers side. Caliper bolts rung off flush. Entire thread hole had bolt in it. Broke off flush. Both, drilled a small hole an punch did not work. Could not budge them. Ended up drilling them out slightly smaller then the actual hole. All i can think to do is take the bolts to shop an buy one size larger bolt, threader, an drillbit that matches that threader an rethread the holes. I do not know if I can get a nut on the backside or I would do a thrubolt. Now that I think about it I know I cant do a thrubolt because the other side is an "angle" What a mess I got now.

I did get the caliper and rotor off tho. the bolts broke where I could slide it off.

Now I think I need to remove the steering knuckle from the car so I can put it in a vice an carefully drill a next size bigger hole for the next size bigger bolt an tap the hole. Ughhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

I think you put wayyyyyyy to much fluid in your transmission. It will only hold 5 quarts if you drain the cooler, the torque coverter and drop the pain. Using a pump and hose in the dip stick hole will not remove all the fluid and you are also suppose to change the filter....

This is how to check the fluid,

1, start car cold
2, drive car till at temperature 175
3, pull over
4, leave car running in park
5, while running, remove dip stick
6, wipe with lint free cloth
7, reinsert
8, remove
9, check level
10, must be between both marks.

end notes, car MUST be idling in park and car warm.

from the book

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Now that I know my transmission is good I will flush an follow your transmission instructions. CHange the filter, ect....

I hope its ok to use a lil less expensive ATF??? The price of the mercedes stuff is a little outside my price range.

In regards to my broken caliper bolts, ....

I figured out that the 19mm bolt & hole will need a tap of 12 x 1.5

and

a hole drill with a 27/64 bit oe a 10.5mm bit metric

however no hardware or automotive stores have those bits

=========
12mm x 1.5 <<<< Tap
10.7mm <<<<< Metric
27/64 <<<<< US

Now I got to convert that to what size drill bit do I need to use for a 12 x 1.5

You want to use dex/merc fluid....other stuff isn't recommended

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