I have a 1970 220d. Just dropped in a new motor. The ignition turned on, all worked great. I held the gorilla nob out to warm the plugs, and I lost ignition key function.

Lights work. Done light works. Key buzzer when when door is open. But no voltage to cluster, glow plugs, or starter remote.

I'm going through the diagram. Gonna make some lunch and think. But any suggestions on where to start? And is their obviously something wrong with my glow plugs that caused a short/fried something?

Thanks.


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Well, my only observation is that you are having electrical issues and your name is Lucas. Need we say more?

Yes. I have no idea what you mean...


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Evidently not someone familiar with British cars. It was an attempt at a pun that anyone who knows British cars would understand. Here are some non-helpful but possibly humorous links...

Lucas - Prince of Darkness - Lucas Electrical Humor Jokes
lucas electric jokes
A Collection of Lucas Jokes - Jaguar Forums - Jaguar Enthusiasts Forum
Lucas Electric - Everything2.com

My suggestion would be to look on the fuse box and see what is on the same circuit as the gorilla knob. I would also wonder about the switch itself - can it be bypassed?

Ahhh I get the irony now. I will change my name if it makes my electrical problems go away.

Good point. According to the diagram, it's powered by the ignition switch. Lol.

I'm sitting here looking at the ignition assembly, and the challenge of getting to it. I was really imagining myself driving off into the sunset with my new motor.

As per diagram, I'm not 100% what powers the key. It looks like power from #1 fuse, and something from headlight switch labeled Pp. I should be honest, I'm troubled with diagrams.




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Ok thanks. Lol. I jumped the fuse box and bipassed the switch. Power to gauges, glow plugs, etc.

However when I glow the plugs, they smoke my jumper wire melts (go figure).

I must have something wrong with the glow plugs, and fried my switch.




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They probably smoke your wire because too much current goes through that size wire. But my advise prompted by my lawyer is to stop and run and tell someone. Tell a grown up !!!!!

Seriously, someone who knows how W115 diesel ignition works can probably answer this easily. It's probably the same as W110 diesel ignition but NOT the same as W123 diesel ignition.

Something with those glow plugs was fried. I dropped in another set I had, known to work, and no problems. One of the others was shorting. My jumper wire didn't heat up this time, which surprised me because there is no relay.

I've yet to get this motor to start. Ran the glow plugs. Maybe still some air in my fuel system. I cracked the injector lines at injector, cranked, saw bubbles, battery died.

Try again tomorrow. If it doesn't go I think I'm gonna push it down the hill and try to bump it over. Sucks, for the first start, but hopefully it's just air


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My gorrilla knob has never worked to glow...I just jumper it when its cold...I'll fix it when I pull the dash to fix the heater blower...the glow plugs are not relayed or fused even

Yeah that's BS. I found the culprit. Circuit 30 is a main robust power source.

It goes from starter, to fuse #1, comes back (unfused) to headlight switch. Outputs two wires to ignition switch. Then to gorilla knob. Then to glow plugs. No fuses. Lol.

Mine had done this before, hence the newer plugs in my old motor. Someone did a crappy repair (kinda fortunately), and the two ignition wires melted off above the headlight switch.

I've been wondering why my headlight switch was just hanging.

Boshe makes a fast glow plug system that does away with the series, and uses a relay. In your case you could wire a button. The FSM has a lot of details about that gorilla switch.

I have a stock of relays from eBay, I'm gonna put my current glow plugs on a relay and fuse direct from the battery before I even try to start this thing.

I have another thread in the diesel section with a guy that dealt with it before.

Thanks for the help. I was stuck yesterday and couldn't think how to jump the key.


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Alright, got everything buttoned up. Charger died and couldn't get a good enough connection jump starting to crack the lines and bleed the air out (I'm a redneck, I know)

So I hooked it to the tractor and towed it around. Definitely a lot of air, but got it running. Had a few minor touches and just finished. Onto this switch.

I've got quite the interesting situation. When I hooked up circuit 30 to the switch it heated up quick. I disconnected it and ran without it, since I spliced my ignition wires in above the terminal.

Im chasing shorts, and I have ground to every fuse in the box except #1, which is hot.

#2 and #3 showed less voltage when running the meter backwards. The rest a full 12V.

I don't know how it hasn't caught on fire. Lol.

Before all this I had windshield wipers working. Blinkers work but blinking double speed.

On the wires on light switch (disconnected from switch), I have the following going clockwise from backside of switch, starting at 30:

30: blank (not hooked up)
Pa: 12 volts. 2 green/white wires
N: dead, no N or voltage. 2 grey/green
58: ground. Grey
PaL: blank.
N: ground. Grey/yellow
57: ground. 2 wires. White/yellow and white/green (smaller)
56: blank
PaR: blank

This doesn't match my diagram. I'm wondering if they doubled up stuff. The light switch was hanging beneath the dash.

I'm gonna lift up the fuse box and have a peak. And try and wrap my head around this.

Got any ideas?


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I'll probably rig up a push button...I left the jumper on all the way to work one morning...it drained my battery but the plugs were fine...they were glowing for a good 20 minutes! Car was running great!... For your blinkers I'd suggest checking all your bulbs and sockets...some of mine were loose or burned out...the rest...hmmm...

Yeah it's a nightmare. All bulbs working. Prob related to the short. I just started taking the tape off the harness at fuse box, head back to light switch. I sat and thought forever, which didn't help. Start looking. Kinda sucks, but after swapping the motor and running, I'm still happy.


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I definitely don't think you want to have your glow plugs heating for 20 minutes. Also, somehow I had the idea in my head that you had a running W115 and you swapped in a new engine. Now it sounds like you obtained a car that had not been running, put in a new engine, and are now trying to figure out what the previous owner did to the wiring... Everything like headlights should be fused. The only thing(s) I would think unfused would be the starter and maybe the glow plugs. So you have got some work cut out for you...