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Old 11-18-2014, 02:26 AM
Lucas's Avatar
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 1,204
Headlight switch restore 115

I got bored and attempted to revive my headlight switch. I tried this yesterday and had to put it down, but ran out of things to do tonight.

Terminal 30 got melted in a glow plug accident, and was in need of repair.

The switch is held together by the metal casing bent down into slots, a little prying with a screw driver will convince it to open. In this pic you also see that square peg. It allows the casing to be put on in only one position.


I cleaned up the contacts and examined 30. The top contact plate goes through the casing and two tabs drop into the bottom contact. These were wiggling a little and required to be flattened down with a small punch.


A little contact solder for safe measure. Notice those center contacts that connect two circuits, for later.



Some JB weld on the outside the top contact to hold it against the casing and avoid wiggling loose



And time to assemble. The contact plate drops into the assembly. This pic shows it upside down. Those three humps make the magic happen (connections).


The plastic plate that goes on top has 3 springs pushing the contact plate into the assembly. Dialectic grease helps with assembly and things moving around, as well keeps it greased for the future.



On top of the plastic mechanism that turns the plate, sits three ball bearings. These rest between the plastic piece and metal case. A fourth one and a spring is located in the bottom of the plunger, I spent quiet some time looking for this tonight. Magnets are great. Dialectic grease helps keep them in place once again.



I bent the tabs on the metal case up to put it back on, held it with vice grips, and tapped them back down with a punch.

The original screw for 30 melted in. I had to drill it out used a self tapping sheet metal screw, with the self tapping part cut off. It's what I had and town is 5 miles away. Still need to sand the top contacts clean, but it was dinner time.



Voila. Switch turns like new. The wiring is interesting with two parking light circuits. One for just those, another to run with the lights. The latter connects to headlight circuit through the switch and center plunger, which may be a design flaw. There is a little insulator between the center plunger and this connection, but if it were to wear through it could short on the dash. Maybe even give you a little buz if you were the ground. However, I'm sure they knew what they were doing.

I've started along term build thread and posted this there, not sure if it gets much traffic so I thought I should share. I'm not sure how these long term build threads are intended, as a highlight after, or to track along the way.

1970 220D in for the long haul

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