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  #1  
Old 11-22-2014, 10:15 AM
Just a tinkerer
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 9
1970 280se questions

Hi everyone. I'm new to this forum and to the Mercedes world. Actually new again to playing with cars. On the start of my AMC project last week I had a visit from someone moving out of state..... in 5 days. They didn't want to tow the Mercedes across the Rockies to their new destination. I bought it for a song and a dance. Literally. Anyways, I have a conflict in the ID # as to the year on the registration. The registration says it is a 1972 but the ID says it is a 1970. That being the case it would be a matter of 2 different engines or fuel delivery between the 2, correct? The 1970 has a carb and the 1972 fuel injected. Am I correct or wrong on this?
I was going to pass on the vehicle but it is a model with the steering wheel on the "wrong" side. Right Hand drive I believe is the term. I put a battery to it and got a few lights and wiper blade action and that was it. No juice to the starter or brake lights. So I do have a little work ahead of me here.
It was parked for the leaking oil pressure gauge line inside the car. If anyone has a link to the replacement part I would appreciate it. Or even a write up hare about it. My search skills are lacking here.
I look forward to restoring this fine little piece of German engineering but it showed up the same day I started my 68 AMC Javelin project. It might get front row because there is considerably less work to do on it than the AMC. Nothing a meter and test light can't fix. Oh, and some scrubbing.

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  #2  
Old 11-22-2014, 12:36 PM
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They were available both with carbs (280S) and with fuel injection (280SE).

If you post the VIN some of the more experienced members might be able to tell you about when it was made. Being a RHD it must have been privately imported and it's not uncommon for someone to get the year wrong when that happens.
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1972 280SEL 4.5, silver
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  #3  
Old 11-23-2014, 05:10 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Georgia
Posts: 9
I guess I am greener than I thought about imported variables. I was informed that there are many models for that year so I'll try and ask this a different way,
The car is a 6 cylinder with a carburetor. A 4 door sedan. Right Hand Drive. My question is..... With this ID# am I looking at a 1970 or 1972?
11406022006428
This is the number on the vehicles registration as well from the previous owner. I thought I had it but I am losing something in the translation from lack of experience at this.
Can anyone decipher this for me so I know what I am looking at?
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  #4  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:02 PM
GGR GGR is offline
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So the chassis type is 114.060. It would be a 72/73 according to Wikipedia: Mercedes-Benz W114 - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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  #5  
Old 11-23-2014, 01:34 PM
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114.060 was first delivered outside the USA in 1972, and in the US starting Model year 1973.
M110 DOHC engine with carburetor.

It is not an S-class car; it is a 280 (no suffix letter)
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  #6  
Old 11-24-2014, 05:23 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Georgia
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Okay, that explains why there is no tag on the body after the 280. This is all great information. It explains a lot and answers a few questions I had about this vehicle. I can research a few things and get the information I need to know.
I spent a lot of hours looking for answers before even joining here and came up empty. Nothing concrete anyways. My lack of correct terminology has got in the way again. Thank you all for the responses. I now have a starting point to get into this project.
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  #7  
Old 11-28-2014, 06:49 AM
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After putting the key in it and turning it to the ON position I have a few lights, wipers, and nothing at the starter when I activate the ignition. Looks like I'm halfway there.
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  #8  
Old 11-28-2014, 10:52 AM
Jub Jub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary RHD View Post
I was going to pass on the vehicle but it is a model with the steering wheel on the "wrong" side. Right Hand drive I believe is the term.
RHD 280, very cool (any pics)?
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  #9  
Old 11-28-2014, 09:28 PM
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If it's an automatic then it could be the shifter interlock switch. That's the switch that only lets the starter engage when the shifter is in Park or Neutral.
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2014, 07:32 AM
Just a tinkerer
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Georgia
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I hadn't even thought of the interlock on the transmission. It is an automatic. Looks like today will be a good day for that.
I have 2 days left of a 4 day weekend. Yesterday got up in the 40's so I spent my time removing a dash out of my Javelin. That needs a total re-wire so to keep moving and keep warm I spent time on that.
Today will be in the 60's so I will jump on the 280 and check out that switch. It has to be something simple enough to figure out. A quick glance at the wiring there were no loose wires or signs of someone "going to fix by themselves" so I am assuming it is from sitting for a few years and the switch could very well be stuck.
I do have a few pictures of it the day I brought it home. I will try and reduce the sizes. I am new at this again.
It sat under a tree that oozed a red sap from it. It was pretty tough to scrub off and reveal a crappy Macco paint job.








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  #11  
Old 11-29-2014, 10:19 AM
Jub Jub is offline
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Nice.

You know, that almost looks like the 6 cylinder 250 (not a 280)? 280's are a little larger, so I may be incorrect in terms of scale. But I own a 250 (look at my signature pic).
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  #12  
Old 12-02-2014, 06:45 AM
Just a tinkerer
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NW Georgia
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There is a 280 rag on the trunk lid so I am assuming it is.
My first experience with this car. What would cause this?
Over Amping?
Water flooding in the weep hole?
Jumper cables ?
I have never seen a starter fry like this. It took out all the windings in the fields and the Armeture is shorted out.
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  #13  
Old 12-02-2014, 12:05 PM
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Gary RHD:

My first inclination is to ask if the engine is free to rotate? If the engine were frozen, and the starter engaged, and held in the engaged position without rotating, the resulting high current would quite likely burn the fields and armature windings.
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  #14  
Old 12-02-2014, 12:20 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
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Hi Gary,

Welcome! I was the new guy here a while ago. You will find a wealth of information and great people who share their knowledge and passion for the restoration hobby.

Best regards,

Jeffrey
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  #15  
Old 12-02-2014, 05:26 PM
Just a tinkerer
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
Gary RHD:

My first inclination is to ask if the engine is free to rotate? If the engine were frozen, and the starter engaged, and held in the engaged position without rotating, the resulting high current would quite likely burn the fields and armature windings.
I hadn't even thought of that.
I might have enough daylight to go find out. Thanks Frank. I just went through a frozen engine on my other project. I guess I know how to pick em. P do need to find this out tonight.

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