I have learned of a W111 in a West Texas wrecking yard that is pretty far gone but still has the rear axle assembly. This place is remote so if I don't bring the right tools it is about a two hour drive to a Sears to pick up the right wrench.

From what I can tell there are two bolts that hold the trailing arms to the body, or six bolts that hold the trailing arm attachment bushings to the body, and I am guessing the attachment bushings are something like 17mm or 19mm. There are also two shocks to remove; again these should be between 15mm to 19mm so I can deal with that.

But the bolt that holds the center support to the body, the one you access through the trunk... What size is this? I am covered up to 23mm but if anyone knows the correct size it would be helpful.

I am sure there is a brake line involved, perhaps two, and some emergency brake cables to undo.

I don't think there is an anti-sway bar involved, but from what I have seen it is attached to the axle and not to the body. Is this correct?

Am I missing anything? Any comment would be helpful.

It comes out pretty easy-Especially if you don't care about the donor car. IMO the worst part is detaching the driveshaft. The center bolt is 24mm. A cheap HF impact socket set has that size. Everything else is common sizes.

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Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

Thanks. I think I have a 24mm somewhere or at least would not mind adding one to the tool-box just to be on the safe side.

I didn't mention the driveshaft to begin with. I guess I am just so used to removing these I didn't think about it being a problem. I know it is a bit of work; it is just something I have done many times before.

And thanks again for the 24mm size. That saved me four hours of driving.

Problem I have had-usually a JY car cannot be put in Neutral to rotate the driveshaft so you have to mess with the linkage to get it in N. And the driveshaft bolts are very tight and inacessable.

__________________
Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

I have run into that, well, several times in the past. But in this case the transmission is out of the car so that should help.

And by help what I mean is the person that told me about this car said he tried to turn the axle but could only turn it a bit before it bound up. So there is some sort of obstruction to deal with; the guy who checked this out would not know enough about Mercedes to know what to look for so I can't ask him.

But how hard can it be? The exhaust system is already gone as is the transmission so maybe a brake caliper is binding? Who knows.

But I should find out in about two weeks!

Sometimes the axle will bind if the shocks are removed to allow the axle to fully pivot down. Or like you said maybe the brakes are stuck. Is the axle a specific ratio that makes it worth the trip? Over the last 20 years or so I have been prowling the Pick and Pulls the 108-111's have drastically declined.

__________________
Tony H
W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

Past cars:
Porsche 914 2.0
'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
'57 Oval Window VW
'71 Toyota Hilux Pickup Truck-Dad bought new
'73 Toyota Celica GT

I think the ratio is just a regular 3.69 or so. What makes this worth the trip is that the car has less than 50,000 miles on it so the axle should be in rather good condition.

That's a good point about the axles being at the full extension causing them to bind up. This would be easy enough to deal with on site with a simple floor jack.

This also has the hydrocompensator still with it, or, as the guy told me 'a big shock absorbing looking thing like I have never seen'.

I should have it, or not, in a week or so.