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  #1  
Old 02-07-2015, 06:05 PM
Jub Jub is offline
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Looking for an engine/lead...w114

Hi everyone,

Anyone know of/have a 1971 6 cylinder dual carbed engine for sale?

Thanks,

Jub

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  #2  
Old 02-14-2015, 07:26 PM
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interested in a 74 single carb ? I'm just south of you in Richmond, I'll be pulling mine at some point ( soon hopefully) to put in a later 280CE engine. Runs o.k. Holley single carb needs some tuning, and could use a valve adjustment. New fuel pump, new water pump, new belts, can be driven right now
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2015, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jub View Post
Anyone know of/have a 1971 6 cylinder dual carbed engine for sale?
Jub
FWIW you can probably use either a 2.5 or 2.8 engine.

As for the single car engine to be pulled - is that a M110 engine or a M130? I'm guessing M110 if it's single carb. Probably a slightly more complicated swap...
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Old 02-16-2015, 02:16 PM
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There is a motor available on Galveston Craigslist. I believe it comes with a 250 coupe body for $2,000
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  #5  
Old 02-16-2015, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScooterABC View Post
FWIW you can probably use either a 2.5 or 2.8 engine.

As for the single car engine to be pulled - is that a M110 engine or a M130? I'm guessing M110 if it's single carb. Probably a slightly more complicated swap...
Yes it's a M110. Trans and all linkage goes with it if it helps him. I'm going manual
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2015, 08:08 AM
Jub Jub is offline
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Hi everyone,

So, I located an engine here in Maryland (in a barn near the Delaware border). It's from a 72 250 6 cylinder carbed engine (even has dual webers). The car actually runs well, drove back 2 hrs on freeway/streets to the house.

Cars in amazing shape, very minimal rust. Kind of a shame to pull the engine, to put in my 71...oh well.

Question: how hard is it to pull an engine. I hear pulling the engine and trany together is simplist route. I can see two engine mounts, but what else holds the beast in (excluding, all the extraneous stuff, fan, hoses, etc).

Jub
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Last edited by Jub; 02-17-2015 at 09:55 AM.
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2015, 12:56 PM
Jub Jub is offline
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One of our forum members did this, and has really great pics. But I wish I knew step by step what needs to happen once everything disconnected... Ie, do I unscrew engine mounts first, then trans mount, etc...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/vintage-mercedes-benz/1812322-m130-engine-removal-rebuild.html#/forumsite/20548/topics/1812322

Also I noticed he removed head first, is this necessary (ie, do I have to do this; do I have to disconnect chain?)

Jub
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  #8  
Old 02-17-2015, 01:06 PM
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I've done an engine swap for similar 6 cylinder engines in W108 body cars. My recollection is that we removed the hood of the donor car but not of the recipient car (but I could be wrong). You want to connect the cherry picker to the engine and trans and support the engine and trans with that before you start removing stuff. You need to use a cherry picker that has a adjustment thing such that you can tilt the weight forward and backward so that when you are moving it you can angle the engine and trans as needed to get it in and out of the car. You do not need to remove the head and I think it would be a bad idea to remove the head.

I would start with the donor car and remove every hose and fuel line going to the car, remove the radiator, etc. Drain the oil, trans fluid, coolant... Make as much room as you can. Put one strap around the front of the engine (possibly around the crank pulley) and one around the back of the engine (possibly just in front of the transmission. Make sure you have all of the oil lines to the transmission and linkage disconnected first.

I think you are going to need access to the under side of the car so if you have it raised a few inches it will help. I think that you remove the transmission mount and two motor mounts and drive shaft connection and then nothing else is holding the engine/trans in place except the hoist. Then the navigation and fun begins.

When you get the engine out put it somewhere for a good cleaning - probably you will need to have some blocks of wood to keep it from falling over and to support the transmission.
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  #9  
Old 02-17-2015, 04:01 PM
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Set the engine and transmission down on a couple of large old tires. Good cushion and will not fall over.
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  #10  
Old 03-21-2015, 06:26 PM
Jub Jub is offline
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This may be a dumb question, but when an engine seizes can this be fixed? Is is just a stuck valve (which are replaceable), or piston (replaceable).

Why not just fix it. Why does everyone seem to just pull engine and swap it out; I know they're available, but is mine salvageable?

Lastly, is this something some good old kroil can fix (seriously)?
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  #11  
Old 03-21-2015, 06:33 PM
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Very hard to even try to diagnose with that limited input.

Why do you think its seized to begin with ?

BTW...the only dumb question is the one you dont ask !
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  #12  
Old 03-22-2015, 09:21 AM
Jub Jub is offline
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Oil was low, engine ran hot, oil pump stopped, turned key on cold morning (5-10 degrees)...engine seized.
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  #13  
Old 03-22-2015, 10:33 AM
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I've seen engines run out of oil that only required rod and main bearings to get going.

That being said, no engine that is run without oil will be a "good" engine again without a lot of work.

I've seen two engines that my Uncle brought back to life by replacing bearings, both were OM616/OM617 engines. I have cousins who seem to think it's a game to hit things in the road and try to get home....

Not enough info about your current engine. Soaking the cylinder rings with your preferred concoction might be enough to free it up, we just don't know yet.

Jim
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  #14  
Old 03-23-2015, 06:43 AM
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I am about 2 hours north of DC, and just got a crazy idea. I have a 1981 280slc 4-speed manual trans car. I always treated it like it was going to be my princess project, and make it an AMG tribute car. It has 80,000 miles on the odometer and runs great. I have a beat down 1970 250c 114.023 that seems to have a lot of blow by. I cleaned the carbs and I am working on tuning them to make the car drivable. It runs now, but stalls when I put it in gear. I have not (yet) done a compression test.

The blue 1970 250c has been called a parts car for a long time now, but I haven't started parting it out, and haven't sold it whole yet. It could be saved. It could be parted. I could also replace the drivetrain with that of my 1981 280slc. K-jets are easy. I would think 1985 HP of k-jettronic would work pretty well in this car. The body is not really worthy of the project/engine though. I guess the body on the 280slc has fewer issues, maybe. I'm not sure what would be most desirable.

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