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  #1  
Old 05-19-2015, 01:53 PM
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Value of M110 motor

So a newb is buying a complete motor off me.

He threw a timing chain in his.

Wants to see it running first, despite showing him a video.

It's still in the car with the starter unbolted. So I will have to crawl under and hook it up.

I was asking $1000 with all the accessories. He only needs a long block. But I'm wondering how much shop time he will pay to swap everything over. If he should just plug and play. As well, he better off taking them as spares. Although I will get a chunk of change off ebay for them.

But what's a long block worth? With my troubles of having to start it for him, and showing proof it works, I'm not too inclined to the normal $500.

I paid $500 for my diesel motor (615). Mystery condition. No warranty.

For the silver platter effect, I'm not too inclined to go under $1000.

I have to tow it across the ranch back to my shop. Get it in the shop. Get it running. Then pull it. And possibly strip the accessories.

And time is short these days.

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  #2  
Old 05-20-2015, 09:00 AM
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What's your time worth?

If Doubting Thomas isn't satisfied with the video, then I'd hold firm at a grand if you need to invest more time into the sale.

A proven, running engine is certainly worth that much.
If he then wants to lowball you, then, it isn't worth your time to deal with it. Establish a commitment before spending time on the car, expectations of buyer and seller should be clear.

I've sent a lot of good engines to the crusher simply because the math will not work out.

Jim
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  #3  
Old 05-20-2015, 01:37 PM
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Swapping out accessories on the M110 will not be cheap--the starter and alternator are time-consuming to remove and install--not to mention the power steering and compressor, which usually involves a rounded bolt head or two. An air pump is a particular time-waster.

I agree with Jim--a running M110 is worth $1000, especially with the accessories. If you decide to get it running you can sell it yourself even if your buyer doesn't come through--best of luck



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  #4  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:13 PM
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Wow I need to start shipping M110s from Holland!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:25 PM
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Stretch. Holla at me. I'm a hustler by nature and do an array of things to get by. Lol

I ship old Harley's to Australia with a guy I met on eBay. Just sent another container.

Thanks guys. That's how I felt. He's a nice enough guy but isn't a mechanic or in the game like us. I told him when it started to get heavy, come see it run in the car, and if you will do the full $1000 I will pull it, adjust the valves, clean it up, and deliver it to your door. And I will throw in a dash, trunk lid and a manual.

He replied about agreeing upon a fair price, yada yada yada.

I have him by the you know what, I have the only one around here. This gives me the confidence to stand my ground.

I did get the car for free. But I had to borrow a truck, rent a trailer, drive 150 miles, etc.

And as a young guy expanding my career, even the $1,000 isn't worth my time right now. Lol. But I want to see it goto use.

I stopped being so friendly and am preparing for hard ball.

Thanks guys.
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  #6  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:45 PM
is thinning the herd
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Wow I need to start shipping M110s from Holland!
I just bought two for $250/ea. I sort of think M110s suck, but that's a different conversation. Maybe we both need to start sending them out.


Stripping an M110 is super time consuming, I tore down the one I am rebuilding for my coupe, and tore down one of the $250 motors for the crankshaft. Took multiple days to get both torn down far enough for the machine shop.
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselPaul View Post
I just bought two for $250/ea. I sort of think M110s suck, but that's a different conversation. Maybe we both need to start sending them out.


Stripping an M110 is super time consuming, I tore down the one I am rebuilding for my coupe, and tore down one of the $250 motors for the crankshaft. Took multiple days to get both torn down far enough for the machine shop.
Yep - I've seen asking prices for 150 euros a piece with all the bits round here
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #8  
Old 05-20-2015, 02:51 PM
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Go on eBay and sell internationally. M110's are highly desired in India and China. About the two worst countries to deal with. Lol.
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  #9  
Old 05-22-2015, 12:13 PM
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Holy smokes that thing sounds good with straight pipes. Lol. Got in trouble with the neighbors late last night. "I had no idea how loud it would be" I think I peed my pants a little bit. Man that was fun.

All seems well with the buyer. I got a little tough.

I got the starter in and it fired right up.

The PO told me like 3 times to plug the oil pressure sender line. Totally forgot. I guess the interior of this chassis has some rust prevention now...

I just started it a second. All good. Today I'm looping the heater core hoses around. Fixing the leaky radiator. Plugging the oil sender. And running her a bit.

He sounds like he wants full assurance. Valve adjustment. Compression test. Etc.

In which case, I'll take a deposit. Perform the work. And return if it's not satisfactory.

So I'm thinking the full $1000 just for the block and head. No accessories. Period. Can't raise the price on him....
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  #10  
Old 05-22-2015, 12:15 PM
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Wondering how the hell you get this motor out. So tight in there.

It's a nice chassis though. The front subframe has been strengthened where the lower control arms mount. New bushings. New steering components. Sway bar bushings. Someone cared about her. Until they forgot to register it for 10 years.
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  #11  
Old 05-22-2015, 12:41 PM
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Which chassis is this M110 in?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2015, 10:24 PM
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Value of M110 motor

W115. It's a 280 (s?). Idk the emblem is gone.

The drivers side mount is somewhat blocked. May have to pop the carb. The mounts have like shocks in there. And there's so much crap with a gasser. My god.

I have a fsm for this car I think. Pretty sure.


Buyer came. I managed to get the startet working. Somewhat on magic. Too small of bolts kinda loose and it wiggles into engage all on its own.

The fuel pressure regulator is freezing up. Or something. It's makes a wining noise, sounds like a mouse dying. Have to tap some to keep pressure at first.

Carb chokes aren't opening. Smells rich. Flapping them open by hand kills it. But that's not an issue since he has another. Maybe it's something simple idk.

Sold for the full $1000. With all the goodies. And I'm throwing in a lot.

I feel like it's a fair deal. I don't want to rip anyone off. But it does sound good. He doesn't know what to listen for, and probably just had a good time with the straight pipes (me too).

At idle I listened to valves with stethoscope. A little tight in the front, a little loose in the back. Expected. At 3/4 throttle you can notice it needs an adjustment. Well I could.

Thanks. I'm glad everyone agreed this was fair. I wouldn't be happy with less than $1000.

Oh and I got a deposit before I pull it.
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  #13  
Old 05-24-2015, 01:17 AM
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If you remove the exhaust manifold first it will probably feel like there is a bit more space.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #14  
Old 05-25-2015, 12:10 PM
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It's the drivers side. I think I have to remove the carb.

I'm going for it today. Still haven't checked my fsm. But if it's not in there I'm still going for it.
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  #15  
Old 05-25-2015, 01:10 PM
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Pull the radiator. Cut the front support braces at the radiator with a Sawz-all. Watch out for the hood release cable.
Pull it straight forward. Much easier than trying to get the angle to clear the pan and tranny.

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