Introducing "Dolly" - 1962 Fintail 220b - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

meltedpanda · #76 12-21-2015, 02:49 PM

brings tears to my eyes, love the car and your dedication.
You and I chatted years ago , good to see you are still at it

JeffreyNMemphis · #77 12-21-2015, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

brings tears to my eyes, love the car and your dedication.
You and I chatted years ago , good to see you are still at it

Old cars and old friends, I have both...

Life is good.

vwnate1 · #78 12-22-2015, 09:34 PM

SWEET ! .

I can't wait to get to a computer with speakers so I can watch this with sound .

FWIW , pressure brake bleeders are only $50 and flush and bleed much better than does the Mityvac tool .

JeffreyNMemphis · #79 12-23-2015, 08:31 AM

Hi Nate,

If you see an advertisement or a video for a pressure brake bleeder for $50 please send me a link. I am willing to upgrade my tool collection.

I was very pleased with the engine's performance after lubricating the carburetor linkage and moving parts. It was a bit sticky last week. The 220 has smaller Solex carburetors than the 220S, but I could not perceive any difference at idle, rev, and parking lot drive. Engine feels smooth and strong.

vwnate1 · #80 12-24-2015, 09:39 AM

I just googled it and have bought two now .

I forget the brand name but they're nice , I bought two before I knew I could simply buy the different master cylinder cap/cover adapters so one of each is ready to go , of course buried in my garage behind my now dead Shop Truck but they ARE out there , no reason why not to buy a cheaper yet one from the local Pawn Shop or craigslist , E-Bay etc.....

FWIW , I don't fill the tank with rake fluid , I only use it as a pressure pump so it won't die or wear out in a couple years .

Don't for get to *gently* take apart every single ball joint in your throttle linkage and carefully hand clean both the ball and socket before lubricating and re assembling , then and only then will you have both the buttery smooth throttle but NO GRIT on the oil / grease to slowly grind it to junk .

Mercedes says to use ATF on the ball joints here , I'm still experimenting with various oils and greases .

JeffreyNMemphis · #81 12-24-2015, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vwnate1

Don't for get to *gently* take apart every single ball joint in your throttle linkage and carefully hand clean both the ball and socket before lubricating and re assembling , then and only then will you have both the buttery smooth throttle but NO GRIT on the oil / grease to slowly grind it to junk .

Mercedes says to use ATF on the ball joints here , I'm still experimenting with various oils and greases .

Thank you for mentioning this tip regarding the throttle linkage. This is an easy maintenance procedure that will make a big difference now and prevent future problems. One of my other hobbies is clock and watch restoration which also involves deterioration of metal to metal contact points that require cleaning and lubrication. I have seen what grit does to gears over time.

vwnate1 · #82 12-25-2015, 11:48 AM

You're most welcome .

I'm one of those Journeyman Mechanics who really believes in doing the whole job , every time .

The nice thing about German machinery is : you can almost always take it further apart than you can get parts for , making it fairly easy to bring old things back to life or keep them working fine as long as you wish .

Tomguy · #83 12-25-2015, 04:36 PM

Brake Fluid Bleeder
Add a 20% off coupon to it and it's under $26.

JeffreyNMemphis · #84 12-26-2015, 12:25 PM

Hello Peaches,

Hope you all had a Merry Christmas, Hanukkah, or other celebration with people you love and that love you. I enjoyed the day with my wife and family. They woke up at 4am and were ready for naps at noon, which gave me a few hours to tinker in the garage.

I pulled out two W111 Radiator Grills and see that I do have garnish molding to replace ones the original owner ruined by using metal screws to re-attach to grill.

You may recall that Dolly came with a fender mounted mirror housing (no mirror in housing) that is not a correct W111 mirror. I have a correct mirror assembly to mount. I don't know how to mount this mirror in the original/correct location. How do I access the underside of mount location? Do I have to remove the fender to mount the mirror? Ouch! What a pain...

I will also have to repair the fender where additional holes were drilled to add the ugly replacement. Btw, the first photo in this thread shows the wrong mirror mounted when I picked up the car. I most likely have to remove the fender to repair the holes, so I can't really say that relocating to the door was less work.

My possible plan B for mounting the mirror instead of removing a fender is to mount the mirror where Mercedes relocated it from model year 1963 onward. I prefer originality and appreciate the original fender mounted location, but that location may be a major pain to access. Further rationalization is the idea of upgrading to an exterior mirror on both sides; the radio antenna is located opposite the original mirror location on driver's side. If I mount both mirrors on doors the antenna location seems normal and conventional.

I wonder if I am molesting this car by deviating from the original factory configuration? I am harming the car by relocating the correct type replacement mirror and adding an additional mirror? The enthusiast who does not know every detail would not notice these modifications since eventually the factory would make them. It was possible to order a second mirror.

JeffreyNMemphis · #85 12-26-2015, 12:36 PM

Hi Peaches,

I mentioned that I used POR15 to coat the wheel wells in the trunk. I am pleased with the results and snapped a photo. The black cardboard that lines the wheel well has survived. It is uncommon for these to still be intact.

You can see the tools have surface rust. I have an idea how to address the rust on tools. Anyone have advice to share on cleaning and preserving the tools? The canvas tool roll has a view nicks in the fabric but is otherwise solid. What is the best way to wash and dry canvas that has rust stains?

dobrodan · #86 12-26-2015, 01:21 PM

By far the easiest location to deal with is the (correct) fender location. Just remove the splash panel behind the front wheel - wheel removed makes it easier - and you will have easy access to the top of the fender. This also lets you inspect/clean/POR15 etc behind the splash panel. The are a few screws in the panel outside and a couple under the hood. You can also clean the rubber weatherstrip and seal the panel well when you put it back in. Should take about an hour.

vwnate1 · #87 12-27-2015, 07:54 PM

Cars sold in North America were not required to have out side mirrors fitted before 1967 so that's why they're located all over the place on old vehicles .

My self , I prefer the vastly improved visibility and safety of fender mounting ahead of the door but in the end , it's up to you , not what any other old car enthusiast thinks .

I hand wash the cloth tool rolls , don't be surprised if holes appear after washing , rinse well and apply laundry starch then iron flat , once dry they'll look nice with the tools rolled up .

The tools can be tricky as they have a (? Zinc ?) coating that's easy to remove with regular de rusting . try working them with a brass bristled toothbrush fro the .99 Cents Store .

JeffreyNMemphis · #88 12-28-2015, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dobrodan

By far the easiest location to deal with is the (correct) fender location. Just remove the splash panel behind the front wheel - wheel removed makes it easier - and you will have easy access to the top of the fender. This also lets you inspect/clean/POR15 etc behind the splash panel. The are a few screws in the panel outside and a couple under the hood. You can also clean the rubber weatherstrip and seal the panel well when you put it back in. Should take about an hour.

Thank you very much! I have been in the front wheel well of W111 chassis cars on numerous occasions and have never noticed the splash panel is bolted on. I am working on the front driver side brake assembly currently. I will take some photographs to share here on the forum.

JeffreyNMemphis · #89 12-28-2015, 10:19 AM

This weekend I started repairing the front driver side brakes. After I installed the brake booster and flushed the fluid from the rear and then bled from the rear, the wheel cylinder started leaking.

The entire brake assembly was encrusted in solid greasy clumps of dirt. I imagine that the chassis was greased over many years, the thick lube would push out and fly everywhere, dirt would be stuck to the grease, then more grease, then more dirt... I could not see the bolts that hold on the wheel cylinders or the bleed nipple and banjo fittings for the fluid line. It took about 4 hours with picks and a screw driver to chip and scrape the crust off to the point where two cans of brake cleaner would finish the cleaning job. The workshop manual provided valuable clues where the bolts would be found under the crust. I don't want to unbolt a fluid bearing system in an environment where dirt and grit can contaminate and make containing fluid under pressure impossible.

I wish I had taken more photographs including various angles before I started. The pictures I took before I started show the front view of the assembly. By the time I started working on the back side of the assembly my hands were too dirty to handle my iPhone. The assembly on the opposite side is in the same condition so I will get some photos there to illustrate.

I notice in this photo the bushings are dry rotted and cracking. I plan on replacing all of the rubber suspension bits. I have the EPC open now looking up the name and part numbers of the various components.

vwnate1 · #90 12-28-2015, 09:52 PM

I'm with you on the cleaning ~

It's normal to have this sort of build up but it's also easily avoided in the future .

New bushings throughout will reduce rattles and squeaks plus make it handle better....