Hi
I am putting together a rebuilt om621 engine-- The timing chain needs to be installed and the fuel injection pump also

First I set the crank at 45 deg BTDC--first cylinder is now in compression

Second I align the marks on the injection pump at the coupling to the engine

Third I set the camshaft sprocket spacer mark to the mark on the first bearing housing to set the cam.

Now I can install the timing chain

Is this correct?

Thanks- all comments appreciated!!

If this is a diesel, you may get more response in the diesel forum

I'm pretty begin of delivery is 26 degrees before TDC not 45

You'll have to do a drip test for the fine tuning of the IP

I think it is often easiest to install the chain and get that right first. Then find 26 degrees BTDC on the compression stroke and then fit the IP.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Thanks Mr Stretch!
Sorry for the late reply, I've been pretty busy at my job lately. But I'm very interested in this.
As you recommended , I did install the chain first.
As far as the timing:
The manual says:
First: IP SET--- line up the followers space between the gear teeth with the scribed mark on the flange
Second: install the IP at 45 degrees with a spring tension to the cam sprocket
Third: move the crank to 26 degrees and do the drip adjustment with fuel
The reason they say is because when you first SET the IP it can skip a tooth on install.

I noticed:When you line up the IP and lightly move it clockwise (by hand) it seems to spring clockwise by two teeth as if finding the center point on the IP cam lobe. Is this what they're talking about?

I'd rather go with your recommendation to insert the IP at 26 degrees- then adjust doing the drip test. What do you think? Thanks again Angus

It must be what they're talking about. I've never worked on your engine before - I'm more familiar with the newer OM61X series.

On the later (Om61X) models there's a cap on the governor that you can unscrew to use a wheel lug to hold the tension whilst setting the IP!

It sounds like there isn't such a thing on your IP so if in doubt - follow the instructions in the book.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!