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  #16  
Old 05-14-2002, 10:53 PM
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So to get the length to remove the bolt you files a screwdriver and hammered it in. What did you use to turn the screwdriver blade?

I have a pretty good idea of what the plate looks like but I don't suppose you have a picture of it?

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  #17  
Old 05-14-2002, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
If you put a plate on the frame rail you'll need longer 10MM bolts for the steering box.
Did you get the longer bolts from Mercedes or from some other supplier?
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  #18  
Old 05-14-2002, 11:46 PM
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I used a vise-grip pliers to turn the screwdriver blade but, as I said, the first 3 times it happened, the screw stub came out easily. The last time I wasn't so lucky. The longer bolts came from another supplier.
They are supposed to be grade 10.9-10MM bolts. Unfortunately, I don't have photo posting ability on my Web-TV unit. The plate I made is about 6" wide by 8" long and bolts to all 3 steering box bolts. I made a spacer from a galvanised pipe to insert into the frame hole where the short steering bolt was and used 3 long bolts instead of the long and short bolts used originally. The plate extends down to the seam where the 2 lengths of frame rail are joined. It bolts into additional threaded plates that I inserted into the frame through an access hole I cut at the cracked part of the frame rail.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #19  
Old 05-18-2002, 02:37 AM
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I had partial success today and removed one of the sheared bolts very easily. I nailed the center of it and it came out with one try! The other however is proving much more difficult. The box has shifted position and is no longer inline very well with the frame so when I hook the bolt with the extractor it gets knocked off hitting the frame. The extractors I have are barly long enough. I have tried driving a screwdriver into as well but I still can't undo it past the frame.

I went ahead and took a bolt off the parts car and now I can at least safely drive the car around. I was hoping that I could get the box more aligned with the bolt but it's going to take some experimentation. Hopefully it'll come out without having the drop the box :-(
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  #20  
Old 05-18-2002, 08:25 PM
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If you have 2 of the three bolts installed that should line up the third bolt and hole.
You may need to devise some sort of centering sleeve or fixture to insert into the frame hole (perhaps something made from a rolled up bit of sheet metal) to center the drill bit onto the broken bolt. Don't drive it too much yet or you risk snapping off your 'parts' bolt!

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #21  
Old 05-19-2002, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
If you have 2 of the three bolts installed that should line up the third bolt and hole.
You may need to devise some sort of centering sleeve or fixture to insert into the frame hole (perhaps something made from a rolled up bit of sheet metal) to center the drill bit onto the broken bolt. Don't drive it too much yet or you risk snapping off your 'parts' bolt!

Happy Motoring, Mark
The recessed one is loose and I've misplaced my 15mm socket.. so I may have to buy another one to tighten it up. Maybe then they will align.
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  #22  
Old 05-26-2002, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
If you have 2 of the three bolts installed that should line up the third bolt and hole.
You may need to devise some sort of centering sleeve or fixture to insert into the frame hole (perhaps something made from a rolled up bit of sheet metal) to center the drill bit onto the broken bolt. Don't drive it too much yet or you risk snapping off your 'parts' bolt!

Happy Motoring, Mark
Well I have gotten both long bolts in but the recessed bolt is giving me concern now. It seems like it has pulled all the way through the frame. Looking through the engine compartment I can see light around the bolt. I can't reverse it out using a socket because it is too far in and the socket can't fit around it. Was there a washer or something there to keep it on the frame? I can't see any damage to the metal around it.

Looks Like I may really have to make this metal plate and get the extra long bolts.. where did you get those bolts???
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  #23  
Old 05-26-2002, 09:39 PM
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you will have to get that short bolt out of there and see how badly damaged the frame rail is. Can you get a thin-wall 3/8 drive 15MM socket to work? If you find the frame rail damaged around that recessed bolt, you may be able to substitute a long bolt and thick washer instead.
I got my grade 10.9 10MM bolts from Potomac Steel, a local Northern Virginia supplier. Some area PepBoys stores still carry grade 10.9 metric bolts but they're phasing out their hardware. Most of the local auto parts/hardware stores around here only carry grade 8.8 metric hardware, but then the Washington DC area isn't a major industrial center. They might be easier to find in LA.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #24  
Old 05-26-2002, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
you will have to get that short bolt out of there and see how badly damaged the frame rail is. Can you get a thin-wall 3/8 drive 15MM socket to work?
Thin walled sockets? I haven't noticed these in any of the places I've been buying tools but I will have another look and see what I can find online as well.

Thanks

Adrian
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  #25  
Old 05-26-2002, 10:05 PM
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A 3/8 drive Craftsman 15MM should work or you can grind one thinner using a bench grinder.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #26  
Old 05-29-2002, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
A 3/8 drive Craftsman 15MM should work or you can grind one thinner using a bench grinder.

Happy Motoring, Mark
Hey it worked! Unfortunately I will have to do some kindof of modification because the sheet metal is torn around the bolt.

There seems to be another edge that maybe a washer could press against and hold with the short bolt but I would have to do some grinding on the washer to get it to fit perfectly.

In the meantime I have ordered more long bolts and when I get those I will try that instead of the short one.
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  #27  
Old 06-03-2002, 12:54 PM
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If there's enough metal left for the steering box to bear against, you may be able to just use a long bolt and thick washer over the outside of the recessed bolt hole. If not, you may need to add a thin shim or washer between the box and the frame rail first. Not more than 1/16" thick shim or washer because you don't want to mess up your steering alignment too much! Good luck.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #28  
Old 06-03-2002, 12:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mark DiSilvestro
If there's enough metal left for the steering box to bear against, you may be able to just use a long bolt and thick washer over the outside of the recessed bolt hole. If not, you may need to add a thin shim or washer between the box and the frame rail first. Not more than 1/16" thick shim or washer because you don't want to mess up your steering alignment too much! Good luck.

Happy Motoring, Mark
I bought an assortment of washers yesterday and plan to try them out today. I'll let you know how it works out.

BTW I'm still having electrical problems with my fan if you have any ideas.. read my post on it here and in tech advice.

Thanks

Adrian

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