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brake fluid in drivers wheel well and assorted parts questions
SO on Dolly my 62 220b , I have been having trouble finding the right steering coupling, all the ones suggested so far only are splined on one end , both the steering box and the steering column are splined on dolly - any one have this issue before
second - push on the brake pedal and fluid seeps out the back of the cylindar right up by pedal, repiar kits available, i can only find a grommet ? Looks like only one big rubber grommet on back , could it be that easy any one that has had a similar issue ?
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Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#2
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Ron, if you have brake fluid leaking then it is the master cylinder leaking. Rebuild/replacement time. The grommet (big "spongy" one?) serves only to prevent leakage of water into the cabin. The one which fits into the barrel of the master cylinder (usually felt) is to keep stuff out of the piston assembly. Neither is a hydraulic seal.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
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Thanks I thought there had to be more. Anywhere I can source a repair kit? They are rebuildable. I hope . It's the single canister type looks like a pretty easy removal
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#4
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There are several kits for this master cylinder currently on Ebay. It looks like the asking prices are in the $60 range.
Don't forget to hone the inside of the cylinder. Brake hones are cheap and all you need is an electric drill to mount them in. It might be wise to pull your master cylinder apart and check out the interior of the cylinder to see if it is badly pitted. If so you may wish to just find a good used master cylinder and then rebuild it before it wears out inside. |
#5
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having trouble finding the kit for the single reservoir type like I have , most if not all sites have pointed me the one that is split, with two reservoirs one for front and one for back
Wondering if I can just upgrade to a dual system ? anyone know, those are available and reasonable
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Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace Last edited by meltedpanda; 04-18-2016 at 10:25 PM. |
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I believe someone posted a thread covering the conversion back in 2006 or so on this site.
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“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#7
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Doing the conversion would make the car a great deal safer to drive.
Anyone who has ever blown a brake line and lost all of their brakes can quickly see the value in having a dual braking system. |
#8
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There's some thought/info on a dual circuit conversion in this thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/vintage-mercedes/371612-car-wouldnt-stop.html I searched "dual master cylinder conversion" and came up with several threads including the one linked to above. Assuming your car has the booster up front by the radiator instead of on the firewall, it appears converting it to dual circuit would be complicated if you wanted to keep the booster function (modifying the fire wall to accept a later style booster/cylinder combo, or adding another, separate booster for the 2nd circuit). If your car has the booster on the firewall I'd think all you'd have to do would be to replace the master/reservoir with a unit that mounts to the existing booster, bend/modify the hard lines so they reach the ports, and make sure the push-rod is the right length. Might be best to just let it be, rebuild what you've got. A well maintained single circuit system is reliable. I put a lot of miles on old VWs with single circuit systems and never had a problem, even during rough off-road use.
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- Greg - 1973 220D, The Prodigal Benz 1974 240D |
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