My Finny arrives... - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

muleears · #1 07-01-2016, 07:01 AM

I have purchased a '62 220Sb. She arrived last week. Unfortunately I have had little time to evaluate her so far. I do look forward to bringing her back to her former glory over the next months/years. With the help of the folks on this board I believe I can do it. My first project will be replacing the broken wing windows. I don't know how they got broken but both of them are. I have secured replacements from a seller on ebay, so now I'm ready to go. First question: How do I replace the wing windows! I assume I need to remove the inner door panel. Anything tricky there or is it straightforward? Once I have the door panel off will it be self evident? I should have looked before I posted this I guess but here we go!

JeffreyNMemphis · #2 07-01-2016, 01:06 PM

Nice car!

When you say the Wing Windows broke, what is broke about them? Gaskets? The glass? or the mechanism that closes them? or something else?

To install the new wing window:

First remove door card with these steps:

Unscrew plastic door lock knob

Pull top piece that door lock knob goes through and crowns door card; uses clips that bite into fiber material top piece and snap into oval holes in door metal. Tip: use a tool to squeeze clips when removing to prevent damaging fiber material that clip is attached to.

Remove arm rest, door locking mechanism chrome trim, door latch cover, window crank, wing window crank knob (the wing window knob has a hole behind the knob to push the cover out and expose screw holding knob on. The knob has an interior facing circular groove that looks like you could use a pic to pry out but this is an illusion that only destroys the knob cover. Use a wire cutter or snip to cut six inch length of coat hangar and make a round hook with 1/2 inch depth at one end and a bend at other to use as handle for pulling at the other end. Put the tip of hook behind the knob into the hole and pull toward you to push the knob cover away from knob.

Remove door card by compressing clips before pulling from oval holes in door metal after removing attached items mentioned above. Again, the clips are attached to fiber door card at the factory by biting into card. If you don't compress the clips they will be ripped from the door card and then you have the new problem of re-attaching them to shredded fiber door card.

There will be two screws holding the mechanical lever that wing window knob screwed into. Remove the screws that hold mechanism to door metal. Carefully remove the screw at the top of door frame covered by rubber weatherstripping. I can't remember if there are screws from the full window frame into the wing window frame? When the wing window is unfastened you should be able to wiggle out and inward toward interior and then up and out of door.

This description is from memory so please be cautious and mindful...

Installation is opposite steps of removal.

Tips; Before replacing door card: make sure the plastic sheeting is there and will seal out moisture behind door card. Check window regulator to make sure it is clean and lubricated or you will be opening door again to replace window regulator someday. White lithium grease works well for window regulator lubrication. Check the drain holes at bottom exterior side of door, trapped dirt and debris will retain moisture and eventually rust gets started and grows. If you see rust or the color orange on you blue metal it would be best to clean area and to treat area rust now to prevent future corrosion and rot from rust. Check the underside of door for rust and rot when examining the door drains by shining light from inside the door while door card is off. It is a good idea to check drains and lubricate window regulators on the other doors too.

Are the rubber gaskets on your wing windows soft enough to make an airtight/watertight seal when closed? Are there any gashes or cuts that would allow water leak? Rubber that is fifty years old can get hard and stop sealing.

Hope this helps...

Jeffrey

muleears · #3 07-01-2016, 03:04 PM

Thanks Jeffrey, that's great instructions. The glass is broken in both windows the frame is still intact. The open/close mechanism seems to be working, at least on the drivers door window. I have a set of complete windows, glass and frame, from an ebay vendor. I will try to work on them this weekend if I have time.

muleears · #4 07-01-2016, 05:56 PM

And now some pics of the new arrival...

muleears · #5 07-01-2016, 06:01 PM

And five more...

muleears · #6 07-01-2016, 06:05 PM

And another 5.... there is probably a better way to do this but I am not familiar with it...

muleears · #7 07-01-2016, 06:11 PM

And the last for now... The car currently has no brakes, I was told the MC had been removed and discarded. But it sure looks like a MC mounted there to me... There is even a couple more in a box in the trunk. Jeffrey tells me this is not the original braking system. Looks like some kind of frankenstein system, this could be a serious problem. But its a project car, that's what I got it for, to work on.

muleears · #8 07-02-2016, 10:40 AM

When I got the car the pedal was on the floor. Today I pulled it up to the top and it snapped into the up (engaged) position. When pressed it pops back to the floor. Seems like its not connected to the clutch, just the return spring. Any thoughts?

I also peeked in the brake master cylinder reservoir and it was empty. I was told the brakes had been disabled because they were frozen, not sure yet to what extent they dismantled the brakes. I need to pull the wheels and see whats what.

Any (+) input is appreciated!

meltedpanda · #9 07-02-2016, 01:35 PM

Sweet ride When I get some time all read on the details. On the road right now

meltedpanda · #10 07-03-2016, 12:41 PM

you will; have to get under and see if the clutch mechanism is in place ( hooked up) see if you can pick up
MERCEDES-BENZ 220B /SB 1959-1965 OWNERS WORKSHOP MANUAL
ISBN 10: 1588500934 / ISBN 13: 9781588500939
I have found it very useful

looking forward to your journey , your car is much like mine, yours a little fancier, with some chrome bling. I am always looking for those chrome bits mine does not have but on ebay they want outrageous amounts for them , plus part of the character of mine is the plainess

gmog220d · #11 07-03-2016, 03:44 PM

Simply love the red interiors in y'alls' cars. You guys are giving me the hots for a Finny!

muleears · #12 07-03-2016, 10:47 PM

My carbs look kind of dry. Not sure how long it has been since the car ran, at least 6 months that I know of. Should I use carb cleaner on these or just take them off and get them rebuilt? (or rebuild myself)?

meltedpanda · #13 07-04-2016, 10:00 AM

for some reason I thought yours was a diesel,

getting ready to do this on mine , just bought the kits, studying on how to do it, I figure id give it a try , if I screw up , I'll find a professional.

Like the old tshirt use to say "I'm not a Doctor, but I'll take a look"

muleears · #14 07-04-2016, 02:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by meltedpanda

for some reason I thought yours was a diesel,

getting ready to do this on mine , just bought the kits, studying on how to do it, I figure id give it a try , if I screw up , I'll find a professional.

Like the old tshirt use to say "I'm not a Doctor, but I'll take a look"

Great! be sure to post lots of pics and notes, I won't be far behind....

I have a T-shirt that says "I never finish anythi..." I don't want this to be one of those times. I rebuilt a Rochester Quadra-Jet 4 barrel when I was 20, maybe I can do this...

Speaking of professionals, I found a place in Burbank that will rebuild my pair of carbs for $478 total. Sounds a little pricey but what do i know.

gmog220d · #15 07-04-2016, 03:08 PM

Going through the carbs should be easy enough. While you have them out check the play in the throttle shaft bushings. If you can feel/see side shake there consider have a carb shop install fresh bushings. Shouldn't cost a lot since you're doing the majority of the work yourself.

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