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  #16  
Old 09-12-2016, 08:10 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 7,534
A few things. Lowering the car should not even be a consideration until you get the rust repaired. Work on one rusted area at a time then move to another area, It is really easy to tear the car apart, end up with an overwhelming project and place a for sale ad that reads ,. . .Car apart ready for restoration, . . . lost interest. . ..

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  #17  
Old 09-13-2016, 03:11 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Devon UK
Posts: 57
Yes that makes sense.
Car is up against garage wall, so I can only get to one side anyway at the moment.
I'm hoping this is the worst side! lol.

Cant find good clear air suspension diagram, anyone able to help?
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  #18  
Old 09-13-2016, 03:15 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: Devon UK
Posts: 57
Sorry to other earlier questions.
It was a private sale and has 8 months of MOT (roadworthiness) left.
Only done 1000 miles per year. Seems fairly good mechanically except.....
Auto box is abit clunky and drip and slight whine from rear diff.
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  #19  
Old 09-13-2016, 12:20 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 22,037
Quote:
Originally Posted by W109Driver View Post
Hi. Yes I was going to ask about that. I've got the brackets but the skid plate is gone.
Anyone got pics of how it sits and made of?

As to low suspension. I just like the way it looks. I've got this car for fun, after all it ain't the most practical is it! And (imo) low old cars look cool when parked.
Where can I get a good diagram of the suspension layout/workings?
I deal with air suspension now and then. I can fix it but I would not know how to modify it or do anything besides put it back to original specs.

You might want to check out the M-100 board. Just Google it. This is where the 6.3 owners exchange tips and there are some pretty sharp people on there when it comes to the air suspension.

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