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#1
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frozen engine....
A guy asked me how to unstick a frozen engine. The car has not run in about ten years but, due to being kept inside, looks nice. This is a W110 we are talking about.
I usually just remove the spark plugs and pour an ounce of automatic transmission fluid into each cylinder. Then I let it sit for a week. That usually frees them up. But is there anything better out there? Just because I have been doing something for the last fifty years is no proof I have been doing it right. So what have you used to free up an engine? |
#2
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Quote:
If it's a W110, it's either a 121 gas or 621 diesel engine. Pop the valve cover and glop oil on the overhead cam lobes which are probably pretty damn dry. If you want to go crazy on oiling like Chuck Crittenden does, create a oil pumping system that works through the oil pressure gauge sender unit connection. That way, you can oil all the bearing surfaces before starting
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#3
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Patience, patience and more...put THIN oil in cylinders as you said and all over the camshaft, followers, timing chain, valve stems. Walk away for days and then try turning by hand. If no success put a bar on the crankshaft, tap it lightly and again walk away. Repeat this process.
Being patient and not using a lot of force may prevent serious damage to the motor.
__________________
"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#4
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A connection through the sending unit is not a bad suggestion but I usually just do an oil change with a filled canister and new filter. Then turning the engine over by hand will eventually get the oil through the system. And since it is done slowly there is no heat build up. This might not be perfect but it always seemed to work. |
#5
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I normally tap the end of the cheater bar with my open palm to try and snug it loose. This sometimes works, sometimes not. And if not more light oil and time. Then try, try again. I am considering using Three in One blue top oil since this seems to work well on lubing up electric motors, like blower motors. Someone here suggested this for blower motors and it works great. I have also been told Marvel Mystery Oil. Isn't this just like using ATF? |
#6
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50%-50% ATF and acetone.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#7
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if its real hard it will not last long,after you break the engine loose.Better to find another motor or rebuild.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#8
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Quote:
Try the ATF or the ATF concoction and if it still doesn't move then I think the kindest thing is to remove the head and the crank and tackle each piston individually.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#9
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Kerosine in cylinders
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Ron 2015 Porsche Cayman - Elizabeth 2011 Porsche Cayman - Bond,James Bond Sadly MERCEDESLESS - ALways LOOKING ! 99 E320 THE Queen Mary - SOLD 62 220b - Dolly - Finally my Finny! Sadly SOLD 72 450SL, Pearl-SOLD 16 F350 6.7 Diesel -THOR 19 BMW X5 - Heaven on Wheels 14 38HP John Deere 3038E Tractor -Mean Green 84 300SD, Benjamin -SOLD 71 220 - W115-Libby ( my first love) -SOLD 73 280 - W114 "Organspende" Rest in Peace 81 380 SL - Rest in Peace |
#10
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An old trick for frozen engines is to pour a mixture of Marvel Mystery Oil and Coca-Cola (diet) into the cylinders to soak for about one week. This technique is used with the thought that the engine will be rebuilt once dis-assembled. Coke has phosorphic acid. If you decide to turn the crank with a breaker bar turn only about 1/4 turn each day.
Last edited by BWhitmore; 12-10-2016 at 03:26 PM. |
#11
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Does acetone harm parts such as pistons that may be within service limit specs if it sits/soaks for an extended period? Have heard it is great for breaking rusted bolts loose. Why/how does it work?
When trying to move it with a bar at the crank, lightly tap the bar in both directions. Kerosene...if you fill the crankcase it would reach the bottom side of the cylinder walls and wrist pins, adding it to the cylinder only gets the top of the cylinder wall that isn't blocked by the piston. It would be one clean engine once drained Keep us posted!!! and Good luck!!!
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"Rudeness is a weak man's imitation of strength" - Eric Hoffer |
#12
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Acetone never sits for very long. Once it separates from the ATF it evaporates quickly leaving behind the ATF as a penetrant/lubricant. Its main purpose is to thin the ATF and loosen the carbon bonds.
The mixture shouldn't be used as a lubricant.
__________________
“Whatever story you're telling, it will be more interesting if, at the end you add, "and then everything burst into flames.” ― Brian P. Cleary, You Oughta Know By Now |
#13
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I may just try one thing and then another and report back on the results.
The owner is thinking rebuild if necessary. Of course it will someday be necessary (this is true for any engine) but they hoped to get some driving out of it first. A lot of great suggestions. I would have never though of acetone but it makes sense since it seems to cut through just about everything and is cheap. And just filling the whole thing with kero is also worth trying. Rust is rust and it is not exclusive to the piston rings. More on this as it develops. |
#14
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Clean up all the cylinders first so you do not get the crud stuck in the rings. Soak with your solvent of choice. Pry the engine at the flywheel. You will get a lot more rotational force there, than at that front crankshaft bolt.
__________________
Joe Alexander Blacklick, Ohio 1964 220SE Rally (La Carrera Panamericana someday) 1966 Unimog 404s (Swedish Army) 1969 300SEL 6.3 (sold) 1969 280SL Pagoda 1973 280SEL 4.5 1974 450SLC FIA Rally car (standard trans) 1982 300D turbo (winter driver) 1986 560SEC 1989 Unimog FLU419 (US Army) 1991 300TE (wife) 2002 SLK 32 AMG (350 hp) |
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