W115 1975 300D (240D 3.0) rebuild
 

Okay folks,

Been on here a while but not very involved. I have had my 300D for about 5-6 years and have driven it from Oregon to Texas. Living in Texas (SATX) it is much hotter and I discovered that things like my A/C decided after 42 years the compressor was all done (last summer), the headlights were dim and I replaced them with H4s that LED lights that were a reasonable temp so they are not "blue" or "super White". I use it as a daily driver to and from work, about 30 miles a day and it was perfect no problems but recently the trans (original) has given up. When that happened I decided to throw some serious repair to it. Many years ago (18) I use to be a technician and then a service writer at a German repair shop in Oregon for several years, so most all of the work I will do myself.

If you have any pointers/ things i have missed, speak up and chime in; here is what I am doing:

- Transmission: ordered from Sun Valley Transmission, Ca.
- Trans mount, Flex discs, Center bearing, Trans lines to radiator
- A/C compressor (York) fan switch, receiver/dryer... R-12... NO 134A B.S.
- Recore Radiator, thermostat, cap, hoses, reverse flush system completely
- Clean and restuff leather seats,
- Dynamat/sound deadening entire floor, doors and trunk (headliner is perfect or I would do the roof too)
- Euro bumpers (2 Serie) , removing the giant US models
- Original lights (Italian) I have always loved that they were clear.
- Nardi classic period wheel

The last thing I am on the fence about is the car is "English Red/ DB504 w/ parchment interior" I have been kicking around the idea of putting period Mahle Mesh BBS wheels that are the gold in the center with a chrome lip, 14in so they fit just as original but with the period touch like the nardi wheel.


I will post pictures as I start and progress.

Got all the interior out dynamatted all the inside restuffed the drivers and back seat with foam to get rid of 43 year old dried out horse hair.. VERY NASTY.... posted some pictures in the album area. the trans just showed up today too!!

pictures http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/makduff3-albums-seat-rehab.html

Would like to know how much sound deadening you achieve

so far it seems really "dead" from inside closing a door or hearing the trunk close from inside the car... I have not driven it I still have the trans to put in and I will not start that until the interior is finished. I do intend to do the bottom side of the hood too then glue a new hood pad on over the top of the sound material.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/makduff3-albums-seat-rehab-picture5673-cleaned-dynamat-sound-deadening-laid-down.html

Old headlights out Euros in.
 

It was really easy, there was a little evidence of some repair work and body damage in the past.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/makduff3-albums-euro-lights-bumpers-picture5683-20170319-142912-resized.html

front Bumper and lights complete
 

after a little cutting on the US mounts and tapping the holes (10MM x 1.50) it is in and pretty straight for a 42 year old used bumper.... now to move to the back bumper...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/makduff3-albums-euro-lights-bumpers-picture5685-lights-front-bumper-now-move-back.html

took on the back bumper
 

The back bumper reinforcement was trashed after 42 years of salt and little care it was rusted so bad that someone had welded in square tube to hold it together... I ordered a replacement that I found on Ebay for $100. and got to the job of grinding the bolts from the inside of the bumper; they came out pretty easily. Next I took OOO steel wool and polished the bumper up...

Tomorrow I will take some pictures and show you.

Euro lights
 

I am looking to do this change myself but I have a couple of questions: Did you have to make any changes to the wiring for the Euro lights? Did you hook up all four foglights together?

They look great.

bumpers and lights
 

Thank you very much, Depending on your model there is very little work required to go from US to EURO lights. I posted a couple pictures in the gallery here to demonstrate how easy it is.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/albums/thumbnails/5/bfaee1801eb193e0ef6043947df5e009_5689.jpg?dl=1490221491

1. The wiring connectors are the same in size and shape US to EU
a. The wiring connector can be reconfigured by popping off the cover
b. Testing the wires for what controls what and move them to the right position for the lights.

2. the US lights have only four wires and the EU have five (due to integrated fog lights).
a. if you want to use all fogs; integrated and externally mounted I recommend you add a relay and test for voltage draw so you don't burn wires and switches...

The only other thing you have to do is remove the mounting cleat at the bottom of the lights on the car (two Phillips screws) as the euro uses the four screws to the body to hold it all.

Thank you for the info. Did you splice in the marker lights as well?

no I did not, I will readdress that later, when I decide to keep them or not.

If you are looking for lights I highly recommend looking to Ebay Germany the seller I worked with is actually in Italy an that is why mine were so rust free..

rear bumper on
 

rear bumper is on just need to wait for the impact strips front and rear

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/makduff3-albums-euro-lights-bumpers-picture5746-driverside.html

finally done
 

the bumpers and lights are all complete... just put the new rubber impact strips on tonight. They came from Turkey and I was skeptical of the quality; they were packaged unprofessionally no doubt but they went on perfectly and fit with the expected trimming at the bumper ends... over all 90% to quality!!

I will post the pics with the strips tomorrow

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/members/makduff3-albums-euro-lights-bumpers-picture5754-least-1-foot-shorter.html

a 43 year old car can challenge your love
 

Ok after all my work recently: trans replacement, A/C compressor & dryer replacement, bumpers and lights, dana-matting the whole interior, and restuffing the seats. The car has been driving great and behaving very well...

UNTIL: the charge light decided to come on when the key was off.... which indicates a short in the ALT... of course I have never replaced the ALT in this car.... and also it is certainly completely encapsulated under the massive A/C compressor bracket. I almost bet if you looked at "book time" for ALT replacement it would say "includes evacuate and change of A/C system"... I love this car; but sometimes it challenges my affections.

Long story short; if you replace your A/C compressor it may be value added to replace your ALT, two bolts and a simple removal while everything else is out of the way ALT cost $ 95.00 to $140.00 depending if you go new Bosch or remanded...

MikeD>