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  #1  
Old 04-09-2017, 11:41 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 69
M110 or OM617 Engine Swap - W110 Fintail

Well, I think I have narrowed my engine swap options to one of these two motors in cars that are located fairly close to me in Miami. One is a 1985 300 SD (125 hp), and the other is a 1980 280SE, Euro (185 hp).

The 300SD has made it into my garage, and photos are attached. I am completely new to diesels, so am a bit hesitant to take the plunge. Anyone know which parts I should take from the 300SD to make the engine work in the Finnie?

The M110 has compression readings about 120 psi on all cylinders, but this was done on a cold engine, so may be incorrect. It also has a very noisy valve train. I am not sure if it needs valve adjustments, or some other more sinister (expensive?) fix.

I am hoping that whichever engine I go with, will bolt up to my Finnie's current 4 speed manual gearbox.

So I am in the market for flywheels for these engines. If anyone has one for sale, please let me know.
Attached Thumbnails
M110 or OM617 Engine Swap - W110 Fintail-20170405_210507_resized.jpg   M110 or OM617 Engine Swap - W110 Fintail-20170405_210002_resized.jpg   M110 or OM617 Engine Swap - W110 Fintail-20170406_191521_resized.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 04-09-2017, 02:49 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Modesto CA
Posts: 2,069
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coolvibes View Post
Well, I think I have narrowed my engine swap options to one of these two motors in cars that are located fairly close to me in Miami. One is a 1985 300 SD (125 hp), and the other is a 1980 280SE, Euro (185 hp).

The 300SD has made it into my garage, and photos are attached. I am completely new to diesels, so am a bit hesitant to take the plunge. Anyone know which parts I should take from the 300SD to make the engine work in the Finnie?

The M110 has compression readings about 120 psi on all cylinders, but this was done on a cold engine, so may be incorrect. It also has a very noisy valve train. I am not sure if it needs valve adjustments, or some other more sinister (expensive?) fix.

I am hoping that whichever engine I go with, will bolt up to my Finnie's current 4 speed manual gearbox.

So I am in the market for flywheels for these engines. If anyone has one for sale, please let me know.
1) Since you have the 617 in hand, measure carefully for clearances around exhaust components, and the turbo in particular, in the W110 chassis. Also measure for upper oil pan clearance.

2) Although the M110 exhaust will not present a problem, consider what will be involved with a left side intake and plenum clearance. If the injection system plenum interferes with the chassis, the engine can be switched to carbureted, which will also simplify the fuel system.

3) Although both engines will bolt to the original transmission, the 617 will require a reworked pilot bearing.
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2017, 09:25 PM
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CTD CTD is offline
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Is there any engine in your 110? Did originally have a four or the six?
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2017, 06:08 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 69
Thanks for your comments guys.

The car originally came with the M180 engine, a straight six 2.3L, which I still have, twin Weber downdraught carbs.

I agree; I don't think the M110 CIS manifold would fit in the W110 chassis, plus all the complexities of the system and inaccessible / expensive replacement parts. I was thinking of going to carburetor: either an OEM 4 barrel manifold, or in my wild dreams, using the 2 weber carbs from the M130. I know no manifold exists for this, but it sure would look great with the twin cam valve covers and those 2 shiny rectangular weber air cleaners.

I didn't know there would be pilot bearing issues with the OM617. Can you elaborate?

Could I rebore the holes in the M180 flywheel to make it bolt to the M110 crank? I would get it balanced for the M110 at the same time.
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  #5  
Old 04-13-2017, 06:33 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 228
I tried a 1978 240 in a 110 the oil filter would not fit and motor mounts were an issue. I ended up putting a 220d in but had to do major mods to RH side for motor mounts and make clearance for oil filter. I had to cut part of a 115 sub for the mount to work. I don't think either motor will fit without major head aches. But good luck and post progress.
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Old 04-18-2017, 09:43 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 69
Well progress has been kind of slow; limited to a few hours on weekends and evenings. Over the weekend I was able to remove all the gearbox to engine bolts. Luckily the car will be junked, so I was able to beat back the engine firewall to access the upper bolts. If the car wasn't to be scrapped, I don't know how a mechanic could possibly reach those bolts.

Mercedes has a reputation of being a well engineered car, but do Mercedes engineers actually work on these cars? I don't think so. First, the Allen key bolts that can be accessed only through a small tunnel in the engine cross member is utterly ridiculous. Is that the best idea they could come up with? Needless to say, the one on the driver's side of my 300SD is stripped, and cannot be removed. Arrrgh.

No problem, I will just remove the mount from the engine. Two bolts are easily accessible, but the lower rear one is from hell. A one inch deep socket can easily fit on the nut, but the engine vibration damper mount prevents a rachet from going on the socket. This design is totally unnecessary and asinine. Similarly, the metal lines from the oil filter to the oil cooler prevents a wrench from going on the bolt.

Infuriating trying to take this engine out so far. What other engineering surprises awaits?
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  #7  
Old 04-18-2017, 10:03 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Miami, FL
Posts: 69
Well progress has been kind of slow; limited to a few hours on weekends and evenings. Over the weekend I was able to remove all the gearbox to engine bolts. Luckily the car will be junked, so I was able to beat back the engine firewall to access the upper bolts. If the car wasn't to be scrapped, I don't know how a mechanic could possibly reach those bolts.

Mercedes has a reputation of being a well engineered car, but do Mercedes engineers actually work on these cars? I don't think so. First, the Allen key bolts that can be accessed only through a small tunnel in the engine cross member is utterly ridiculous. Is that the best idea they could come up with? Needless to say, the one on the driver's side of my 300SD is stripped, and cannot be removed. Arrrgh.

No problem, I will just remove the mount from the engine. Two bolts are easily accessible, but the lower rear one is from hell. A one inch deep socket can easily fit on the nut, but the engine vibration damper mount prevents a rachet from going on the socket. This design is totally unnecessary and asinine. Similarly, the metal lines from the oil filter to the oil cooler prevents a wrench from going on the bolt.

Infuriating trying to take this engine out so far. What other engineering surprises awaits?
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  #8  
Old 04-19-2017, 11:25 AM
GemstoneGlass
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Northern,Ca
Posts: 670
for the m110 take the engine and transmission out in one piece. It is easier that way.
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Chris
84 280sl
82 300d euro
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  #9  
Old 04-19-2017, 11:56 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 6,732
Pull the valve cover on the dual cam engine and take a look at the cams. If these did not receive the regular adjustment they require they will dig into the valve followers and nothing short of a cam replacement will cure the noise.

The problem with these cams is that the original owners would take care of them. Then the next owners would let a little service work slip. By the time the rattling noise starts they have reached the point of needing replacement and not a lot of casual Mercedes owners want to invest the time and money.

Like all Mercedes engine parts these cams are expensive new. But they show up on Ebay at a reasonable cost and they are not hard to replace. It takes a lot of time, but there are easy to get to.

Making sure they are timed correctly is the hardest part.
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