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  #1  
Old 05-01-2017, 03:36 AM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 116
My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...

Hey, everyone.. Thanks again for the wealth of information and warm welcome; it helped me decide to go for it with my 'barn-find' 1978 280ce.

I reclaimed my garage from the general contractor over the weekend, and pulled the car in so I could have a proper look around with good lighting and some J.J. Cale on the stereo.

As you may or may not recall, upon purchase earlier this week, the car seemed to be running on five cylinders, and my suspicion was correct; removal of all injectors revealed one that was completely occluded. I soaked them in solvent, had some solvent (bourbon on the rocks) myself, and blew them out with compressed air. I figured it was OK to do this because new (genuine M-B) injectors, guides and seals are arriving on Tuesday. Put it back together, and she jumped to life on all six jugs, and aside from the blown muffler, runs great! Drove it around the neighborhood; plenty of power, even on quite-steep hills.

A few observations, and this is where my questions lie:

1) My car requires no brake-pedal to shift from park into any gear, engine running or not. This is my first vintage automatic, and every other auto I've driven has a lock-out mechanism. Park functions as expected, so at least the pawl is working in that regard.

In it's current state, is there a risk of getting in to reverse while at speed, with an accidental bump of the gear selector? I haven't discovered a "lockout" part in my searches, and was wondering if it's some vacuum-controled mechanism that disallows gear selection without brake application.

2) Digging through receipts and work orders that came with the car, the engine was replaced with a "good, used" one, back in 2010. The engine number I found is 110.984.12.057.787

A google search brings me to several sources (wikipedia, amongst others) that indicate this engine code generates 177hp. Is it wishful thinking that somehow, this car has a more powerful engine than it came with? It does have all the emissions stuff on it... (photo #2)

3) Seats. I assumed they were MB-Tex, but upon closer inspection at the hot mess that is my upholstery, it may well be leather. I have never seen vinyl look like this underneath. Are these leather, or MB-Tex? (see photo #3)

4) I finally got the trunk open with key & lock lubrication and some coaxing with just the right amount of jiggling (don't go there). Can someone please tell me what the two weapons might be? (See photo #4)

Sorry for the long post, and thanks in advance!

Attached Thumbnails
My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_0790.jpg   My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_0810.jpg   My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_0812-2-.jpg   My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_0791.jpg  

Last edited by Ten13; 05-01-2017 at 03:39 AM. Reason: add text
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  #2  
Old 05-01-2017, 04:25 AM
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Location: Alhambra California
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Looks like real leather. Nice find. I have no idea about the weapons although they appear to be something used in the fishing industry. The auto trans uses a neutral safety switch to prevent car from being started in drive or reverse. As to a vacuum controlled lock out unit Inam afraid my knowledge there is no good. A good source for info concerning Mercedes auto transmissions is Sun Valley Mercedes Transmissions in Van Nuys Ca. They have a great website. The owner is Marc who is always willing to share information. Good Luck with your new toy. ,
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  #3  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:08 AM
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Location: Modesto CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ten13 View Post
A few observations, and this is where my questions lie:

1) My car requires no brake-pedal to shift from park into any gear, engine running or not. This is my first vintage automatic, and every other auto I've driven has a lock-out mechanism. Park functions as expected, so at least the pawl is working in that regard.

In it's current state, is there a risk of getting in to reverse while at speed, with an accidental bump of the gear selector? I haven't discovered a "lockout" part in my searches, and was wondering if it's some vacuum-controled mechanism that disallows gear selection without brake application.

2) Digging through receipts and work orders that came with the car, the engine was replaced with a "good, used" one, back in 2010. The engine number I found is 110.984.12.057.787
There are no shift interlocks, although reverse (and park) is hydraulically blocked within the trans above some low speed by the governor pressures.

M110.984 is correct for the model year.
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  #4  
Old 05-01-2017, 03:49 PM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frank Reiner View Post
There are no shift interlocks, although reverse (and park) is hydraulically blocked within the trans above some low speed by the governor pressures.

M110.984 is correct for the model year.
Thanks, Frank -- so, if the car was just parked without the parking brake on, my five year old could take it out of park and take off? Crazy. Cool, but crazy...

Why didn't my parents have a w123 when I was a little kid?
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ten13 View Post
so, if the car was just parked without the parking brake on, my five year old could take it out of park and take off? ...
Yes, like every automatic back then. Heck, I don't think even my 1985 Volvo had any kind of interlock to the brake pedal. I always use the parking brake as well, even in my own garage.
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  #6  
Old 05-03-2017, 01:10 AM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
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I've been able to put some miles on the '78 280ce, and I have to say that, despite the raging exhaust leak, cracked seats with no padding and busted springs, maybe some vacuum issues , and the fact it's in need of a bunch of little things; what a pleasant car to drive!

After inspecting bearing play, suspension component integrity, fuel line integrity et al, I eventually got it out on the freeway. The 2.8 pulls strong (and I see what you mean about being wound-out a bit at higher speeds) and the brakes feel confident. I will continue to address the issues as I have time, and look forward to the driving experience this car will bring... thank again, everyone!
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  #7  
Old 05-06-2017, 09:55 AM
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Thumbs up W123 Coupe

Looks like you got a good one ! .

Failure to use the parking brake is criminal .

FWIW, it's easily adjustable via one wheel lug, remove and peer in the hole with a flashlight then use a screw driver to adjust .

I'm a W123 Coupe lover, with minimal work they make not only good daily commuters but dandy rally cars too .

The M110 engine is peppy and robust but thirsty .

Lots of hot oil changes and annual valve adjustments will keep it running fine for decades .
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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
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Old 05-06-2017, 11:37 AM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
Looks like you got a good one ! .

Failure to use the parking brake is criminal .

FWIW, it's easily adjustable via one wheel lug, remove and peer in the hole with a flashlight then use a screw driver to adjust .

I'm a W123 Coupe lover, with minimal work they make not only good daily commuters but dandy rally cars too :rolleyes: .

The M110 engine is peppy and robust but thirsty .

Lots of hot oil changes and annual valve adjustments will keep it running fine for decades.
I've definitely come to realize that parking brake is essential, especially living here in the San Francisco Bay Area...

The car passed SMOG (barely) the other day, despite its exhaust leaks and emissions system in unknown condition. When the tech checked the timing at the SMOG station (he has to enter it in to the computer system), it showed 8 degrees. Realizing that this is measured with everything connected, unlike the factory service specifications, does that sound about right? Car runs well and doesn't get too hot (175 degrees after a highway run on a 83 degree day).

As it gets more exercise, the oil leaks, transmission fluid leaks, and coolant overflow issues have all but stopped (I think the radiator was topped to the brim).

I await genuine M-B fuel injectors and seals, valve cover gasket, transmission filter & gasket, and oil pan gasket, various vacuum connectors, and the exhaust components, but will start with exhaust to get back-pressure sorted before a full-on diagnostic tune-up. There is a vibration at certain speed (not RPM) ranges on the freeway, which I've read is likely a U-Joint or harmonic balance issue with the driveshaft. The engine mounts seem to be in good condition.

Thanks!

-greg
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Old 05-06-2017, 12:26 PM
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The engine mounts hold up well with the M110 with the exception of the LH side if you have a power steering fluid leak. The transmission mount is prone to collapse with age. The transmission mount and the rubber bits around the carrier bearing are very susceptible to rot from leaks of oil or trans fluid. Either of these mount failures can cause the vibration.

Unless you have the replacement of these in the service records you should consider "shot gunning" the drive train components. New flex disks, trans mount, carrier bearing.
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:06 PM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
The engine mounts hold up well with the M110 with the exception of the LH side if you have a power steering fluid leak. The transmission mount is prone to collapse with age. The transmission mount and the rubber bits around the carrier bearing are very susceptible to rot from leaks of oil or trans fluid. Either of these mount failures can cause the vibration.
Hi Mike D - well, you nailed it. When we went in to replace the exhaust system, we observed a completely collapsed transmission mount. Dropped a new one in there and the car runs smooth as can be now.

Thanks for that!
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Old 05-21-2017, 09:47 AM
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Question Questions

What kind of fuel economy are you getting ? .


What typ of exhaust did you fit ? .

These sound pretty sweet when lightly un corked .
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-Nate
1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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  #12  
Old 05-21-2017, 09:55 AM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 116
Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
What kind of fuel economy are you getting ? .


What typ of exhaust did you fit ? .

These sound pretty sweet when lightly un corked .
As for fuel efficiency, I honestly haven't a clue - odometer and speedometer are both not functioning (yet).

The exhaust system is a OEM (shipped from Germany) center muffler - according to Mercedes-Benz, this was the last unit they had in stock anywhere - and the rear muffler is a similarly-sized unit to stock, but with different pipe spacing (recall the 2.8L gassers have dual pipes all the way back). Custom-bent piping connects everything. It's quiet underway, but has a nice, low rumble at idle and takeoff.
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=== current vintage stable ===
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  #13  
Old 05-22-2017, 03:31 PM
Ten13
 
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Asheville, NC
Posts: 116
Exhaust system on my '78 280ce (photos, video, part numbers)

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwnate1 View Post
What kind of fuel economy are you getting ? .


What typ of exhaust did you fit ? .

These sound pretty sweet when lightly un corked .
Below are a few photos of the exhaust system, as installed in the '78 280ce...

and here's a link to a quick video of it running, so you can hear how it sounds...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47225258/IMG_1023.m4v

Part number on the center muffler is: 123 049 18 15 (this was shipped from Germany)
Part number on the rear muffler is: 123 490 781 ? (sourced domestically)

Piping was custom fabricated.
Attached Thumbnails
My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_1022.jpg   My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_1024.jpg   My new 280ce - Observations & a few questions...-img_1025.jpg  
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=== current vintage stable ===
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  #14  
Old 05-22-2017, 08:56 PM
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Thumbs up

That sounds nice ~ I wish you'da revved it once or twice .

I hope you checked / topped up the final drive gear oil ~ my Coupe looked the same and now it howls like the dickens in spite of changing out the old remaining oil and adding rare earth magnets to both drain and filler plugs .

As soon as I can source a filler plug gasket I'll replace the dead final drive and both homeokinetic (? SP ?) axles with freshly service and re booted annular drive axles and flanges .

There should be DIY How-To's of the slipping odometer drive gears, I took my speedo part way apart and chickened out, had a shop do it but many here have done it at home and claim it's easy .

Keep up the good work ! .

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1982 240D 408,XXX miles
Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father

I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better
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