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#1
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76 w114 110 eng valve adjustment
does anyone know how to adjust vales on a 110 eng ?? is there a procedure to start and finish by number of cylinders and which way to turn 17 mm nut to tighen and loosen vales if out of specs
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#2
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Do a search here, there's a bunch of write-ups. I went through the same thing on my 76 280C, a few years ago, before she went into storage. If I remember......You're gonna need a special tool that let's you get in there.
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1976 280C SLOWER DRIVERS KEEP TO THE RIGHT. DRIVE RIGHT PASS LEFT |
#3
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A high-quality open-ended 17mm wrench should be adequate--the adjusters will take some torque to move. Just make sure you have a solid fit on the hex before exerting the necessary pressure
Tim Kraakevik St. Charles, IL 60174 630 940-2420 kraakevik@voyager.net |
#4
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There is a 17mm open end wrench made by HAZET that is made to do this job.
It is a sort of crows foot wrench. If you can't find one on Ebay then I don't know where to look. According to Mercedes you need to adjust the adjusting nuts in the head with a crows foot wrench, the HAZET if you can get it, because you need to use a torque wrench while adjusting them. Here's why..... You adjust the valves when cold. You should have a sticker somewhere to tell you the specs. You rotate the engine until the cam lobe is straight up and then you adjust the adjusting nut in the head until the clearance between the cam lobe and the cam follower is correct. You use a torque wrench because there is no 'locking' nut on the adjuster. It is held in place by the friction between the adjusting nut and the head. But if the torque is out of spec, that is if it takes almost no torque to turn the adjuster, then then adjusting nut will work loose and you will soon be out of spec. There is a fix for this but I can't remember what it is right now. I would not attempt this without reading up on it first. The version I gave is just enough to get you into trouble. |
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