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  #1  
Old 06-30-2018, 03:12 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2015
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Help inside clutch supply cylinder

My 67 260S has an inside clutch cylinder that is only briefly mentioned in the big factory manual. The glovebox parts catalog has a decent exploded diagram.

Need help figuring out how to remove the cylinder from the bracket with upper and lower rubber insulators.

Do I need an hydraulic press? I hesitated to go hard with a screwdriver for fear of tearing the rubber. Iím not sure if anyone sells the rubber seals nowadays.

Thus far the most difficult task was removing the two bolts that hold the bracket.

Am trying to get this back on the road for Monday.

Thanks in advance.

Iíll try to post a couple of pics when I get out from under the car.
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2018, 04:23 PM
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Iíll try to post a couple of pics when I get out from under the car.[/QUOTE]

I've taken the spring clip and metal plate off. The bolts that attach the housing/surround to the bracket on the inside firewall are tough to access because of the very cramped space. Used two 10mm sockets (1/4" drive), one on a ratchet and the other on a t-bar).

I already have the replacement supply cylinder in hand, and it's ready to go on.
Attached Thumbnails
Help inside clutch supply cylinder-replace-me_3420.jpg   Help inside clutch supply cylinder-rubber-1_3426.jpg   Help inside clutch supply cylinder-parts-diagram_3429.jpg  
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2018, 04:37 PM
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Please notice that the real thing is slightly different from the parts catalog. The catalog shows the rubber Part 61 below the bracket and then the metal ring/plate #62 just above the bracket. But, my item has a rubber piece above the bracket and it does not pry off with a screwdriver. Indeed, when pressing a screwdriver in, the blade does not hit the metal of the side of the cylinder. It's as if there are two Part#61 pieces, one above and below.
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2018, 05:43 PM
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Ok. I see that Niemoller shows that 2 of these rubber rings are required - one facing up, the other down. Found on their 230SL W113 page: https://www.niemoeller.de/en/w113/w113/B042/290/d25283-gummilagerring-f-geberzylinder

Orignal part number: 108 295 00 50

So now I know where I can get replacement rings, But I still want to know if I can safely remove the rings that I have and reuse them.
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  #5  
Old 06-30-2018, 09:43 PM
Rook
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 37
Sounds like you are rebuilding rather than replacing the master clutch cylinder. I managed to find a $40 replacement cylinder on peach parts and just removing and replacing the whole thing was hard enough. Tight quarters under the dashboard. The replacement didn’t have a rod, so I didn’t remove the old one, it just slid in. I also reused the rubber boot. I have a ‘69 280S.
Sorry, the picture is on its side.
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Help inside clutch supply cylinder-16bffb29-d375-4790-946f-d8a553f8b77c.jpeg  

Last edited by Rook; 07-01-2018 at 12:30 AM.
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  #6  
Old 07-04-2018, 10:58 PM
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Hi Rook,

Thanks for the reply and encouragement. Unfortunately, mine's was a job to replace the supply cylinder. But then, I did not have to worry about tear-down and reassembly.

Anyhow, your supply cylinder this the design that was most prevalent, where the cylinder itself is mounted to a bracket on the inside firewall. My cylinder design, which I suspect did not last very long in production, is comparatively a massive pita. There is no "it just bolts right on" factor about it.

Well, I finished the job Sunday evening, and the pedal and gear shifting seems to work fine. I think the cylinder was leaking when I got the car 4 years ago; but it never "failed" - like the pedal going to the floor and never returning. I guess I was lucky.

I might write a description of my process to remove and replace the cylinder. at a later date. Spoiler alert: olive oil.
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  #7  
Old Today, 02:19 PM
Rook
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 37
Glad that ultimately worked out; it does sound interesting. I had the pedal stick to the floor at a stop sign. It could have been worse but it was not fun.
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