I'm thinking about replacing my front pads on the 71 250. Is this a DIY project or am I asking for trouble?

Safety is my main concern.. but I also can't afford to do it could become time consuming(IE taking more than a day to do since it's my first time trying it).

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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty

This is definately a DYI. If you know which end of the hammer to use, you'll do okay

Safety is always a concern! Get a good pair of jack-stands. You should be able to get a pair of 3-ton stands at any good auto parts store. They'll run in the $30-50 range, but you'll get tons of use out of them in the future.

Always, always, always support the car with stands (on firm, level ground) anytime you have to lift a wheel off the ground! Chock the wheels also to prevent rolling -- don't trust the tranny or parking brake.

If you don't have a manual to show the R&R of the brakes, get one or let me know... I'll try to scan some pics and instructions from mine.... if I can find my manual..... I haven't used it for a while.

I can usually change out both sides of mine in under an hour, start to finish, but I've done it a few dozen times.

Doing it yourself will also save $$$. Front brake jobs at the local tire and auto will run $100 or more. You can save 80% by getting your own hands dirty, plus have the satisfaction of accomplishment. Good luck.

Two additional suggestions.

- When you are ready to tap the pins out before pulling the old pads out, put on a good quality mask so you do not inhale any dust, and vacuum up the floor, caliper, rotor, etc. Brake dust is bad stuff.

- Have a large C-clamp handy to force the pistons back into the calipers to accomodate the thickness of the new pads.

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Chuck Taylor
Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe

Does MB suggest the use of any anti-squeak compound on the back of the pads?

They do and it of course can be bought from fastlane.

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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty

Other things to do while changing pads on these cars are check the brake calipers for sticking/seizing and check the rubber brake hoses for blockage (they can look fine on the outside but be stopped up on the inside!)

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

What do you do to if tell if the hoses are blocked and wether or not the calipers are seizing?

Thanks

Adrian

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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty

Typically, a blocked brake hose will allow pressure to the brakes but won't release pressure when you release the brake pedal.
A seized caliper will also not release the brakes causing dragging/overheating of the pads and rotors. If only one side sticks the brakes will probably pull and swerve.
While replacing pads you can see how much effort it takes, with the bleeders open, to push back the caliper pistons. In severe cases, it may be impossible to budge one or more pistons. You can remove the old hoses and try to blow through them to check. Mouth pressure should be sufficient. If they haven't been replaced in awhile (say 10-15 years or so) you might want to just go ahead and replace all the rubber brake hoses
And of course, bleed out and replace all the old brake fluid. (especially if it looks like black coffee!)

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW