I have a 1962 220SEb "fintail" that I drive here in Connecticut only in the summer. I was adivsed many years ago by owners of similar vintage automobiles to only use 20W-50W weight oil, which I currently do. However, the car still burns oil at a rate of @ one quart per 500 miles, so I was wondering if there would be any less oil consumption if I ran it with straight 50w oil during the summer? Anyone have any idea/experience of what the pros & cons are? Thanks.
P.S. Despite such high oil consumption, the plugs are not oil fouled.


1962 220SEb Sedan, 188,500 miles, four speed on the tree
1992 300TE 4Matic Wagon, 128,750 miles, auto
1995 Subaru Leagcy Wagon, 97,500 miles, five speed

1963 Vespa VNB 125, 11,250 miles, three speed

If you are consuming oil, but not burning it, do you have leaks? I would tend to want to fix the cause instead of band-aiding the problem with a heavier weight oil. Heavier weight oils flow more slowly, and could aid to excessive wear at startup, when you need to get that oil flowing throughout the system ASAP.

From what I've read it's not that excessive for the car to burn that much oil.

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MB 72 250 M130.923 114.011 170k The Beauty

I have a '60 220S that I drive year round (weather permitting). I use 20W50. I find that with frequent choke usage, the oil suffers from gasoline dilution and 'burns' more rapidly. It usually smokes at first start-up but is not noticable after. It's not fouling plugs yet.
As it's not my main transportation, I just add or change oil more frequenty. It runs very well as it is so an engine overhaul or Weber carbs aren't in my budget right now. I can afford oil more than a replacement engine!

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Good information, thanks. At start up, my car often gives off a puff of blue smoke, more often when the engine is cold, but that's it; I can't see any smoke in my rear view mirror when I downshift for instance, (though the person behind me may say different). There is some oil on the lower front end, but no puddles on my garage floor. I'll clean off the supect areas to see if there is an external leak, but I agree that adding oil is far cheaper than an engine rebuild. It seems though that these older engines, even when new, may not have had the same tight tolerances as engines today so it maybe the puff and oil rate consumption is even normal?? Either way, you have all convinced me to stick with the 20W-50W.
Now, if I may bother to ask, what brands ydo ou use and which you stay away from, if any?

There's been so much discussion about oil on this forum (and other places) about corner cutting by the manufacturers, synthetic 'blends' marketed as straight synthetic, supposedly superior name brands having some defect or flaw, according to this person or that, etc... I've decided that it's more important to check, add and change the oil as needed and as long as the oil is labeled to meet the same API standards, my 220S can happily consume Walmart brand 20W50 at about $5 for a 5 quart jug! (Walmart brand seems to work OK in my '84 Honda too.)

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

The blue puff at startup would indicate worn valve stem seals. These can typically be had under $20. You may want to have a friend follow you and report what they see. The 80 240D that I sold left a tremendous cloud behind it. I never could see that cloud from my vantage point in the drivers seat. Others that followed me, saw it clearly. Another good indicator would be to perform a leakdown test. This will tell you how much blowby you have and where it's going. I swear by these over a compression test most instances, and when used in conjunction with a compression test, gives a very clear picture on internal engine health.

As for me, the diesels get Rotella 15W40 oil while the Saturn gets the 5W40 as required by GM, (gotta keep that warranty intact), and the Samurai gets the cheapest 10W30 I can find.

D.P.: I know how to do a compression test, but exactly what is a "leakdown test", and how is it done? Thanks.

You need an air compressor, and a "leakdown guage". I bought mine at a racing and performance shop. You will have to have some kind of hose made to fit your injector adapter if you own a diesel. Otherwise you will screw the hose into the spark plug hole.

The cylinder needs to be at TDC for the cylinder to be checked. Screw the injector adapter in same as you would a compression test. Turn engine by hand untill cylinder to be tested reaches TDC. I recommend blocking engine with breaker bar at crank pully so that it cannot move - I guarantee you that the piston will move if not braced. Attach leakdown guage to air compressor and adjust regulator for between 80 - 100 psi. Then adjust guage untill it reads "0" difference in pressure. You then attach the remaining open end to the injector adapter and hose. This will immediately show you how much air is blowing by by percentage.

You then listen for where the air is escaping. Through the filler cap will be rings or scored cylinder walls. Through the intake will be intake valves, and out the exhaust will be exhaust valves. Bubbles in the coolant will be head gasket.

Oh yes, almost forgot. Anything over 15% leakage is considered borderline. Over 20% leakage is considered excesive.

I've attached a picture of my tester.

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Great, thanks. I'll have to make myself one of those too. My car is not a diesel, but an inline six with a mechanical fuel injection system. I'll follow your very clear instructions after I build my tester. Also, thanks for the acceptable %'s. I hope if it's anything, it's the valve stems and not the rings/cylinder walls!

I would buy the tester. I bought mine for $109 at a Moroso perfromance shop. They can be had cheaper. I cannot remember where my dad bought his, but I like his guage better, as it is color coded. He didn't pay near what I did for mine either.

Fintail fan,
I read a consumer report about 10 years ago that stated the 3 top conventional oils to be: Phillips, valvoline, and castrol. In that order. I honestly don't know what weight at what time for what engine is best. It seems the more people I've asked, the more different answers I've gotten. The consumer report I read stated that Quaker State was the worst. A lot of people swear by it. My father, Who owned a Union 76 station (he lost it during the Arab oil embargo, I don't think "pump it yourself" stores helped either), would put Quaker State in his personal car, go figure. I think common sense is the best rule. Change your oil regularly, don't go too thin a weight in the summer or too thick in the winter. My mechanic told me to put straight 40W in my 4.5 which does smoke a bit. But the Ga. winters are not extremely cold. I put 20w 50 in my wifes 300sd Turbo Diesel. I put Rotella 15W 40 in my work vehicles and have no idea what I' gonna put in my '65 300se! In my opinion, a straight weight is not going to make a big difference in your oil consumption.

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"BECAUSE KNOWING IS HALF THE BATTLE"
G. I. JOE.

When I first started driving, in the early '70s, I was using K-Mart brand oil. I switched to Quaker State, and then I heard that it wasn't so great. Then I started using Castrol 10W40 or 20W50 and a buddy that does vintage racing said that it was bad stuff.
I also tried Mobil 1 a few times and some persons on this forum said that Mobil was cutting corners on the newer formula.
As I recall, the last Consumer Reports test on motor oils found no significant problems that cold be blamed on which brand of oil was used. So it's WalMart for me now and no more money for the big oil advertisers!

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Similarily, after having had so many responses to my initial inquiry, I called my independent mechanic and asked him which brand I should use, (I had been using Castrol), and like you said, he told me that both Castrol and Quaker State are junk. He instructed me to use only use Penzoil, Kendall or Valvoline, and only in a 20w-50w weight.
Also, I didn't ask him, but I've read that it supposedly is best to use oil with a weight maximum of 25 between the high and low, ie. 10w-40 = no good, 15w-40in = good, 10w-30 = better (though 10w-30w may be too thin for older engines or very hot climates). Supposedly the polymers break down more rapidly with a 30w spread, except in 20w-50w because the 20w is thicker, it makes it more durable. I don't know if there's any merit to this, but I'll blindly follow my mechanic's advice, as he is the best I've come across in my 44 years.