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  #1  
Old 08-02-2002, 11:19 AM
wcbrase
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Por-15

How do you recommend that I apply POR-15 inside rocker panels and other auto body panels where the inner cavity is barely accessible except via a small hole? I considered inserting a spray tube, eg. from a garden sprayer, but POR-15 application instructions warn against letting it pool. There must be a way to get it into such spaces, but I haven't discovered it. Thanks for any advice you can offer.

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  #2  
Old 08-04-2002, 05:55 PM
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Just don't do it...

...get Fluidfilm (a sheep-based oil which is used in the marine industry) or Mike Sanders grease and blow that into the rocker panels and alike.

This way you also conserve the spaces between the welding spots, since (propperly applied) it will creep into the tightest spots.

Kind regards
Eberhard
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Old 08-04-2002, 11:04 PM
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It sorta feels like I walked up to a conversation in the middle of it... Eberhard, are you saying "don't use the por15 in those places, use the sheep's oil instead " ? or use the sheep's oil and then the por15 ? The latter does not sound logical in terms of the adhesion of the por15... so I am thinking you mean the former ? Is that correct ? thanks, Greg
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Old 08-05-2002, 04:20 PM
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To avoid rust...

...it is important to stop oxygen to get into contact with the metal surface.

The best way to do it in enclosed areas is with a highly fluid liquid which is able to get into the tiniest spots between, for example, the outer and inner rocker panel.

Very good results we achieved with a product which was designed for protecting salt water tanks on marine vessels.

It is produced from the wax of sheep wool. No kidding.

It replenishes bitumen based coverings, is very easy to process and does not harm the person working with it or the environment.

I tried the product on my cars and I can highly recommend it.

The adress to get Fluidfilm would be:

Eureka Chemical Company U.S.A.
234 Lawrence Avenue
South San Francisco, CA 94080
P.O. Box 2205
South San Francisco, CA 94083-2205
Telephone: 650-761-3536
650-873-5374
1-888-387-3522
Fax: 650-589-1943

East Coast Division
700 Thimble Shoals Blvd., Suite 114
Newport News, VA 23606
Telephone: 757-873-1355
1-888-387-3523
Fax: 757-873-7627


Kind regards
Eberhard
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Old 08-06-2002, 09:32 AM
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So, when you stop in the country... do sheep run up and sniff your car? Do wolves attack your tires at night ? Do former squeaks turn to tiny Baaaaaas ? Does your car want to follow other cars instead of going where the steering wheel is pointed ?

This sounds like Lanolin.... the common ingredient in hand lotions... and fine leather care products...it may can be bought "in bulk" as that for less cost...

" It does not harm the person working with it"..no ,to the contrary... they probably have exceptionally soft skin.....
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Old 08-06-2002, 12:04 PM
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Hehe

Yes, the ingridient is lanolin. And they added a little something which makes even better than bulk lanolin.

They also have a stiffer product like a pudding. You can mix just as you like it, "al dente" so to say.

After working on for cars in a a row I had a beautyfull skin. And a little respiratory problem

I will use a mask the next time

Anyway: I highly recommend Fluidfilm for corrosion protection.

It works great on replenishing bitumous stuff, too. I just brushed it on and let it do its job.


Kind regards
Eberhard
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Old 08-06-2002, 12:05 PM
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Here is the

...picture, freaking computer...
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Old 08-06-2002, 03:04 PM
wcbrase
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POR-15

Thanks, everyone, for the useful advice, which I have to say has taken a colorful twist.
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  #9  
Old 08-06-2002, 08:13 PM
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Rust proofing in tight places is a huge problem... because one of the few ways to clean out rust , like phosophoric acid.. must then be cleaned out itself...and if the rust has dirt or oil or grease over it then the acid can not get to it... Taking the panels off so both physical ( angle grinders with wire brushes on them ) and then acid is one way ... but not always practical.. they do that for classic restorations... but the sheep oil may be closer to what you are needing in this case... of course it does not survive soapy washing..like at a car wash... it would have to be reapplied after those type cleanings...so it really is not like the Por15 for absolute protection...The Por15 is not the easiest product to work with... but it is so much better at what it is intended to do that people put up with the disadvantages...
If my New Holland ag dealer carries it ( it says they do ) I think I will get some for farm usage...it sounds like good stuff for many applications...
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Old 08-07-2002, 12:06 PM
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The used POR-15 to paint the girders in a few key building restorations here in NYC. That was their top advertisement about 10 years ago.

You'll find that hirschauto.com has a competetor to POR-15. I have no idea if one is any better than the other.

-CTH
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  #11  
Old 08-08-2002, 08:59 AM
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I've had good luck in the past, treating rust in tight places such as the rear wheel arches with 90 weight gear oil. When I got my 72 250 in 1988 the wheel arches were starting to swell at the welds but rust hadn't broken through the paint yet. Using a pump oilcan, I liberally soaked the inner fender arches through the trunk area and, while other parts of the car have rusted badly, the arches are still intact. I don't know any down side to this treatment other than the smell.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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Old 08-08-2002, 10:30 AM
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good timing on this thread actually, since just last night I dusted off the 108-115 chassis manual (an ultra-rare loose-leaf book) and read through the section 60 material. It covers all the body repairs of the 114 chassis. Included in there are suggested materials for sealing seams after welding and filling body cavities after rust/crash repairs.

They recommend an oily gunk, with of course, a German manufacturer's name. But it's probably long obsolete with better products available.

-CTH
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Old 08-09-2002, 09:55 AM
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I personally would rather smell like a sheep than an oil pit.... our family roots are from the Kilgore ,Texas area.. the entirety of which used to smell like gear oil....

I just wonder if something which can be washed off at a car wash.. or degrade naturally....is enough to trust what metal we have left on these old cars to... I tend to go for the hard prep/Por15 or the likes myself... sleep better at night... but I will be counting sheeps lanolin containers falling off fenceposts at night for a while...
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Old 08-09-2002, 11:29 AM
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Well, I think gear oil is harder to wash off than sheep oil. On a related note, years ago in Virginia Beach, I used to see a ,formerly white, older 240D. I say "formerly" because the owner had sprayed the cars exterior with some preservative like 'cosmoline' to which all this road dust had stuck, making his car a mottled gray-brown color. People used to write "wash me" and other comments with their fingers, on his car!

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #15  
Old 08-09-2002, 12:17 PM
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Did you check out the Fluidfilm website ? It may not be.... and that still leaves the smell ...

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