Fuel pump does not need viagra squirts just fine.
Anybody got an answer on the Solex markings on the float and and valve?Seems strange.(Zeiniths) I think the float level is right but I would apreciate if somebody would walk me through the setting procedure. Nobody has a opinion on keeping or chucking the condensor?I unclogged fuel nozzle and got the accel pump sounding better last night with pull 2nd carb tonight and try and clean it up if they leak I will rebuild or shop Webers

I soaked the jet block in cleaner last night and almost everything that is brass on the jet block sez Solex! Please somebody tell me what's up?

Subcontracted parts? Unless someone has replaced the Zenith carbs with Solex two barrels!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Oh man I 'm losing it!!!The carbs are Zeniths HOWEVER
parts on front carb that say Solex are:
Primary and Secondary main jets
Fuel inlet needle valve
Primaryand secondary air correction jet
I cleaned the front carb up,reassembled and she fired up
and ran!! gaskets do leak so I will need to replace them
but now I need to know if I should switch all this stuff out?
I have plugged the fuel return valve hole, does that come in a rebuild kit? Will it cause problems if I leave it plugged?

Glenn:

If it runs, who cares who made the carb parts?

I suspect they are either replacements of standard parts or Zenith used Solex parts to make the carb, or they both used parts manufactured by someone else that are branded with both names. Wouldn't surprise me a bit that Zenith and Solex were partly owned by someone else, who made parts for both -- European companies aren't like US companies.

But it runs! Very large improvement, odd carb parts aside.

Get a rebuild kit and replace the gaskets, etc, you may then be on the way.

I suspect you need to replace the return valve, woudn't be there if it wasn't needed.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I guess that's true if it runs who cares? I am really thinking hard about going to webers, combing thru these posts it's about 10 to 1 of somebody getting these Zeniths dialed in and then staying dialed in. I dont want to spend $100(kits) are carbs that are junk after you get done. At least with the webers I have NEW materials to work with, I hate to change away from original equip but... Anybody gotten some good deals on the Webers?

Glenn:

I've been told the Zenith carbs are as good as the Webers on this car, not a problem. Make sure the heat riser flaps are free (or stuck closed, either one, you live where it is warm most of the time and dont' really need them).

You won't save any time or effort synchronizing Webers vs. Zeniths -- the procedure is the same.

Get access to a manual, you cannot do this by the seat of your pants!

Basically, what you need to do is set throttle plate and idle screw position exactly the same on both carbs. My mechanic said don't use the idle stop screw to adjust relative throttle plate position, use the linkage.

From a dead start (i.e. disassembled carbs) you need to set the idle mixture screws (if you took them out) to exactly the same position from where they touch the seat (DON'T seat them hard, please!!!) -- count turns and make sure they are the same # of turns out, and in the same degree of rotation. Adjustments ditto -- move one, move the other the same amount. You will have to set the throttle plate to the correct setting (should be in the instructions) to start with for the idle, engine speed initially isn't anywhever near as important as identical air flow.

Once you get the engine running, you can set relative air flow with a synchronizer, ditto for mixture. If the carbs are in decent shape, you won't have too much trouble.

This sounds somewhat more complicated and difficult than it is

Engine MUST be in good tune, or you will have fits -- each carb feeds three cylinders. Air flow to the two sets must not only be the same, but all three cylinders need to draw the same amount of air. Adjust valves, get good plugs in there, etc.

A good Japanese motocycle mechanic will be a good resource here, as most of the older (and mabye newer, for that matter) four cylinder Jap bikes have four carbs, one for each jug.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Is the manual you speak of the same as the one at
JaimeKop.com?