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#1
09-11-2002, 08:30 PM
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Chassi number !?
I'm trying to find the last 6 digits of my chassi number to order parts.
I would not put my hand in the fire but i thought it was the last numbers of the VIN ie; 108.012 12-123456. If not were the heck do i find it??? Thanks DAN
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ Last edited by 1967250s; 09-11-2002 at 09:33 PM. 
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#2
09-11-2002, 09:02 PM
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Not sure if this will help, but I use the VIN number to order parts...for W113 cars (230SL ,250SL,280SL, 1963 to 1971) typical VIN is 113.044 10 023456. 113 means the chassis type for all three of these cars, 044 means 280SL (042 is 230SL, 043 is 250SL); in the next position 1 means left hand drive, 2 means RHD; next 0 is manual tranny, 2 is auto, the last six numbers are the build sequence number that runs from 1 for the first (say 280SL) to the last one made of that model.
The VIN is on the registration, on a plate on the car, and probably in several other places depending on the particular model. There is also an Aufbau (build) number shown on the data card. For for the above SL's, this is in the form "06440". This number is stamped into some body parts such as the hood to show that the part was original to that particular car but this number is not used to order parts.
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1971 280SL Tobacco Brown; 4 speed manual; Cognac interior; Jump Seat; 75,000 miles. Can be seen at www.panix.com/~rmadison/mercedes.shtml
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#3
09-11-2002, 09:41 PM
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I have examined the not so user friendly MB CD and i may have found were to look.
Here is what they say : "chassis number stamped on right frame side member". Can't post pic of it from were i am right now. Will keep you posted. Will check tomorow. DAN
__________________
http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++
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#4
09-11-2002, 10:56 PM
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"chassis number stamped on right frame side member".
Driver side door frame?
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Happy Benzing Darryl, Hill 2005 SL55 AMG Kleemanized 1984 500 SEC 1967 W113 California Coupe [SIGPIC] https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/myphotos
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#5
09-11-2002, 10:58 PM
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You have the chassis #..
It is a 108.012 chassis. If the serial # is needed for a part ,they are the last series of numbers ..you have them.. You should be able to order any parts you need with the #s you have , with the exception of parts that require paint/trim numbers...or special option codes
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#6
09-12-2002, 01:25 AM
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Chassis/serial number is on the VIN tag on the left windshield post (US cars) and stamped into the radiator support on the right side of the hood latch. It should also be on the maker's tag on the left side of the latch.
The chassis number is first (108.xxx), the 10 means manual tranny (12 is auto tranny), the remainder of the numbers are the serial number. Mine is 108.067 12 013857 -- meaning a 280 SE 4.5 (108.067) auto trans (12) # 13,857 produced. Not too many of these, as mine was made in May 72 and production stopped in October or November. The other numbers on the tag to the left (driver's side) of the hood latch are paint number (mine is DB387, navy blue), uphostery type and color, and other accessory information. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#7
09-12-2002, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
I'll go with you guys and say that it IS the last 6 numbers of the vin. Thanks DAN
__________________
http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++
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#8
09-12-2002, 09:09 PM
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Just out of curiosity,....
What part are you looking to buy, anyway? -Larry
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It is a truism that almost any sect, cult, or religion will legislate its creed into law if it acquires the political power to do so. Robert A. Heinlein 09 Jetta TDI 1985 300D
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#9
09-12-2002, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
The cheapest new one is $245cdn, the kit is $130cdn according to my numbers wich are 023068. If I had a number higher than 058444 i think, the master would be $140cdn. The argument with the seller was the chassis number. The thing is, I do not want to put to much in it cus I'm trying to sell it. But if there is no buyers, I'll keep it and fix it with good parts. Click pics in my sig for more details. If you have any parts for this car let me know. DAN
__________________
http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++
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#10
09-13-2002, 06:14 PM
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Dude, just take the master cylinder apart and clean it! If there are no rust pits on the bore, and rubbers are ok, it should work fine.
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"
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#11
09-13-2002, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Thanks DAN
__________________
http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++
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#12
09-13-2002, 07:35 PM
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Dan:
I'd not bother to take a master cylinder apart unless I had a rebuild kit to put in it. There are only two reasons why a master cylinder will fail -- worn bore (scores, corrosion, etc), in which case it is junk, or bad piston seals, and you cannot fix those, only replace them. Before you condem the master cylinder, check all the hoses -- front and rear. They can look fine and still leak internally, with the outer rubber swelling up when you step on the brakes. This will give you a mushy or sinking pedal, and hoses are MUCH cheaper than a master cylinder kit. I'm doing all of mine -- would hate to run into someone because I was cheap on the brakes! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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#13
09-13-2002, 10:13 PM
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Quote:
DAN
__________________
http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++
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