Shouldn't it have been imprinted with a $ to prepare the owner for what comes next? The fluid level is fine, I replaced the front pads this spring(I think.. its all so hazy), time for the rears? Where in the system are the sensors for this? Is it triggered by low pressure or grounding connections on the pad and shoes?

There is a plastic plunger on the brake resivour on mine. Don't know what model you have, you did not post. Anyway, try pressing the plunger a couple of times. This resets the brake light. There are no sensors for the rear. If at all ($), you might have to replace your master cylinder......

Try pushing in on the hand brake. Often when the cable gets slack the hand brake handle will come up a little causing the lamp to light. If the light goes out when pushing down you'll need to adjust the parking brake tension.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Don't know the model and year, but the brake light on my 71 sl recently came on while the fluid was fine. The float inside the reservoir had filled with fluid and separated from the plunger such that the contacts to keep the light off became separated. Replaced the plunger and all is well.

__________________
Regards,

Tom S.
1971 280SL Tunis Beige Metallic
1971 280SL Tobacco Brown (13K miles)
1970 280SL Deep Red
1994 E320 Cabriolet
1999 E320 Wagon 4Matic
2002 LX 470
1992 Land Cruiser

Ok. Brakes are fun! I just replaced the master cylinder. Not too expensive, but I feel the pain.

My brake indicator bulb is burned out I think. Won't come on when the emergency brake is on. Any ideas on how to replace this easily? I do have the so called knurled knob in place. The instrument panel is snug. I don't want to start mucking around and break something. (Not that I've broken anything before!)

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Thomas Viano
'72 280 SE 4.5, over 100,000 miles

Well, you'll have to pull the instrument cluster to access that bulb. While you're in there you might as well replace every bulb in the cluster. While you have the cluster out, might as well clean the reflector surfaces, maybe even repaint them in white. It will make a world of difference.

Once the knurled knob is off you'll have to disconnect the speedo cable, might have to discoonect at the tranny first to get a little slack. Once the cluster is eased out far enough you have to disconnect the oil line for the gauge, use caution here and be sure to use two 10 mm wrenches - one for the line nut the other to hold the fitting at the back of the gauge. You cannot disconnect the capillary tube for the temp gauge, but you can carefully unbolt the gauge and let it hang. Be extra carefull and don't kink or break the capillary tube.

__________________
Mike Tangas
'73 280SEL 4.5 (9/72)- RIP
Only 8,173 units built from 5/71 thru 11/72

'02 CLK320 Cabriolet - wifey's mid-life crisis

2012 VW Jetta Sportwagon TDI...at least its a diesel

Non illegitemae carborundum.

Thanks for your reply. But there is no way I'm going in there based your experience/description below. Sounds too much like defusing a bomb to me. And I KNOW something else will break when I'm in there. Not a chance. I'll live w/ the burned out bulb.

Incidently, did you know the low fuel indicator is a little orange triangle? I've only had it come on once, but it was very neat to see it. What can I say? Lights, bells, and whistles make my day (or break my day if they're burned out).

__________________
Thomas Viano
'72 280 SE 4.5, over 100,000 miles

It turned out to be the E-Brake slightly deployed. Its so easy to scream past the obvious sometimes. Thanx Mike!