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#1
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72 280sel wont start!
for a while the car wouldnt restart if the car was hot. A friend told me maybe the coil. then i parked for a month and tried to start and it wouldnt turn over , thought maybe the batt. was low then charged batt. and still nothing when i try to start like when it was hot before but its cold so im confused? does it sound like a coil and if so would the fireball xr 700 replace my coil or would i need a coil still.
Thanks, AARON
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
#2
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Sounds to me like you have a vapor lock problem.
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Regards, Aaron |
#3
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This may be way off the mark, but I had a diesel motor that wouldn't start when hot.
Diesel motor may be a biotch to get going in the cold, but once you've got them running they shouldn't be a problem restarting for the rest of the day. Turned out to be the starter motor, the spindle I think you could call it was bent. There were two copper washer / bearing / tube things at each end of the starter motor, they were worn. I replaced them, then found I needed to replace them regularly, ended up getting a new spindle or whatever the guts of a starter motor is called. Problem solved. .............um.......er......... symptoms for this prognosis are the starter motor not turning the motor around fast enough to start it.
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306D 1975 (camper) - rusting away W116 450 SEL 1975 - sold W114 long wheelbase ambulance, 3 litre diesel 1974 VW Golf 1 convertable - midlife crisis item VW T4 van - support vehicle |
#4
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whats vapor lock and how do i fix it
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
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Vapor lock is when there is negative pressure in the gas tank (with respect to the outside environment) and the pressure is too great for the fuel pump to overcome it. Buy a newer style gascap that has a vent on it. To see if it IS vaporlock, try starting the car with the gas cap loose.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#6
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but my car wont even turn over. the starter has always worked great, maybe my ignition but my buddy said it was the coil and that doesnt make sense either because what does the coil have to do with the starter
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
#7
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Be aware that batteries can die suddenly, as in finito pronto.
They will still read 12V, but not have enough oomph to turn over a motor. Eliminate that variable first, i.e. try another battery.
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306D 1975 (camper) - rusting away W116 450 SEL 1975 - sold W114 long wheelbase ambulance, 3 litre diesel 1974 VW Golf 1 convertable - midlife crisis item VW T4 van - support vehicle |
#8
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He said he changed it :p
Have you eliminated the chance of the engine being frozen? If it's been sitting that long... And it definetly is NOT the coil.
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#9
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Several possiblilties Aaron:
Bad battery -- if it won't provide enough current, it won't even spin the starter. Bad battery cables or bad engine ground. No connection, no starter, no start. Bad solenoid on the starter. The solenoid snaps back when you turn the key, shoving the gear on the stater motor into the flywheel gear and at the same time closes the contact for the starter motor. Either the solenoid is sticking or the contact are burned off from age and use, so you get a distinct "click"' but no starter. Ignition switch is bad, or the wires are bad between switch and starter. The small purple wire is the one from the switch. Bad neutral safety switch, or missing bushing(s) in the shifter linkage. If the switch isn't in Park or Neutral position, the starter isn't connected to the key switch.... Try shifting to neutral, and/or wriggling the shift lever. Switch isn't too bad to replace -- it's on the transmission around the shift lever. Bad neutral safety switch is the most likely, and missing bushings are probably second choice. No start hot (with engine cranking) can be either ignition failure (no spark) or low fuel pressure due to a failed accumulator or pressure regulator -- ignition is more likely. Best bet is a tuneup -- new points, check wires, resistance in coil, etc. If any major parts are bad, I'd replace the breakerpoint system with a Crane or Pertronix optical unit with new coil and transistor unit. This is much cheaper than the MB parts, and the points won't burn up any more....! Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#10
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Quote:
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306D 1975 (camper) - rusting away W116 450 SEL 1975 - sold W114 long wheelbase ambulance, 3 litre diesel 1974 VW Golf 1 convertable - midlife crisis item VW T4 van - support vehicle |
#11
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Ah, my bad :p
The neutral safety switch sounds like a likely cause
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Current: 2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee" 2018 Durango R/T Previous: 1972 280SE 4.5 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi" 1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k |
#12
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sorry fellas the batt is a brand new gel cell so i know its not the battery. no click noise even. probably the neutral switch, where is it ? anyone know
Thanks again
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
#13
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aaah! psfred already told me where thanks.
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
#14
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neutral safety switch was the culpret!
Thanks for all your guys help. couldnt have figured it out without by myself.
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1972 280sel 4.5 |
#15
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Psfred,
Agree totally with you. I just mentioned vapor lock before we had anymore info on the symptoms. I was under the impression that it would crank but not fire. I didn't know it wouldn't even crank..
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Regards, Aaron |
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