Broken lug bolt - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

240 Ed · #16 12-19-2002, 05:52 AM

Well, that is the beauty of this impact driver. It doesn't slip out of a groove because you are pushing it in (with the huge force of a hammer blow), and at the same time it gives it a twist in the 'undo' direction.

I am sure that if you tried to use a regular screw driver, you will round out the slot pretty quick.

Tomguy · #17 12-19-2002, 05:34 PM

THANK YOU (gmask and PaulC most of all) for the advice! I went to Sears, got a 1/4" cobalt drill bit and a screw extractor (for 1/4" drill bits). I could never have gotten this sucker out any other way! It was VERY hard to remove with the extractor (requiring a lot of force even with the socket wrench!). But it's out now, and to show my pain:

Tomguy · #18 12-19-2002, 05:38 PM

And yes, those are my dirty fingernails. But they show a man who loves to work on his machines, and I wouldn't have it any other way!

gmask · #19 12-19-2002, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tomguy
But it's out now, and to show my pain:

LOL.. yeah sometimes you have to hammer the extractor in to get enough bite to turn the bolt but good leverage is allways helpful ;-) I had to do this for two broken bolts on my power steering box and eventually had to take the box out because it was too difficult to see where I was drilling through the holes in the chassis.

congrats

Adrian

leathermang · #20 12-19-2002, 05:43 PM

oh Contrar ye of little faith.... the chain drill would have drilled that WITH a normal Hss drill bit.... ( reference The Machinist's Bedside Reader ) and you could have tapped it with a left hand tap and just screwed a left hand bolt into it....
This just for reference for others with sticky problems....

And also in that vein...

240 Ed mentioned the magical " hand impact wrench"... what works on really hard situations, rather than a screw driver bit on that great tool... is a " drag link adjuster"... this is a socket which is a HUGE flat blade.. much stronger than any screwdriver bit I have seen... they make them in 1/2 inch drive ....so you can make a big notch and it still fit the tool....

Tomguy · #21 12-19-2002, 05:48 PM

leathernang: Perhaps, but would it have been over $8? This wasn't

leathermang · #22 12-19-2002, 05:50 PM

Yes, my chain drill was $14 plus shipping... BUT WHAT ABOUT THE NEXT PROJECT ? The only purpose to life is to collect tools.... and it will be a while before an excuse comes up again for a chain drill....

gmask · #23 12-19-2002, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by leathermang
Yes, my chain drill was $14 plus shipping... BUT WHAT ABOUT THE NEXT PROJECT ? The only purpose to life is to collect tools.... and it will be a while before an excuse comes up again for a chain drill....

Haha.. yeah I've been aovioding buying an exhaust hanger puller only because the proper tool costs like $25 with shipping fom samstag. I wasn't able to justify it so I bought some steel rod from the hardware store and did some bending in the back yard and a little grinding.. need more reasons to use the grinder.. and viola homemade exhaust hanger puller.. woo hoo!

Tomguy · #24 12-19-2002, 06:06 PM

Hmmm.... let's see, figuring that's the first time I've needed an extractor...

I do have tools, just... not a vacuum pump which I suppose I SHOULD get next. Bleh.

240 Ed · #25 12-19-2002, 08:27 PM

OK youse guys, Tomguy was just lucky following advice from youse guys! Besides, a real mechanic who loves to work on his cars would show a lot of blood in this picture!

...leastways, that is what happens to me...

Looks like you got it out clean without buggering the threads, good job!
The ideal next step would be to "chase the thread" with the appropriate size tap. Then use a copper based anti-seize paste on the new bolts. This will prevent further rust problems too.

Anyway, BRAVO Tom.

Tomguy · #26 12-19-2002, 09:09 PM

Heh, I just put the "new" bolt in right away. I didn't think about anything else. She needs new tires anyway

.

No blood? What, I'm no wuss!

leathermang · #27 12-19-2002, 10:50 PM

OK, ED, Why copper based ?

240 Ed · #28 12-20-2002, 02:34 AM

Gregg,

I am not sure about the exact reason, but I suspect it has something to do with the compatibility of metals and electrolysis.

It would be my guess that the aluminum anti-seize (the silver one) has a disadvantage in this regard. But, I don't know. I will do some research and maybe I will find that this is a myth.

Aaron · #29 12-20-2002, 01:46 PM

I ALWAYS use either Wurth CU1100 copper paste on lug bolts or else Mercedes-Benz "Gleitpaste" (their clear sunroof grease, which will work in high-temp applications). Not once have I ever had a bolt become unthreaded because of this paste. The only thing using anti-seize does is make getting the bolts undone a helluva lot easier the next time 'round, and yes even torqued to 80lb/ft they still tighten up. Also, once I am done working on a car, especially one that I know the customer is going to store for a long time, I will drop all wheels and apply some paste to the bolts. Just for precaution. I don't use Permatex silver anti-seize paste, as I'm not a fan of any of their products.

P.S.---Congrats Tomguy!

Tomguy · #30 12-20-2002, 03:59 PM

Well, being as cost-conscious as I am (trying to save for a ring, ya know >_<) I need to know: How much does it cost?

I mean, it sounds like a damn good idea... and if Ed and Aaron do it, it must be good!