Broken lug bolt - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Tomguy · #1 12-16-2002, 12:26 PM

Well, in my continuing effort to make my car more road worthy, I am eliminating all the small problems one-by-one. After fixing the window I decided to move on to the door locks. Not being able to find what I need, I skipped to the broken lug bolt.

I did not think it would be this difficult to relove it. I took the wheel off and I tried taking it out with pliers. I've sprayed it with WD40 and let it sit overnight, I've tried heating it with a torch (which has worked very well for me in the past on rusted bolts and nuts) and I've even tried drilling through it! (At the rate I was drilling, I might have gotten through by the car's 50th birthday). The big problem is that there simply is not enough of it sticking out to remove it. I do have the original head from it and I've tried using it as a "key" if you would to take it out (as it broke during tightening) but alas, I could not. Any ideas out there before I go nuts?

Rackne · #2 12-16-2002, 01:29 PM

Try using a hacksaw blade or a small cutting wheel on a dremel to make a slot to place a screw driver in. Drive it in as deep as possible then use a wrench on the screwdriver for torque. The dremel method is so much faster....

skalie · #3 12-16-2002, 03:02 PM

If it's standing "proud" you should be able to tap a notch in it with a cold chisel and then give it a good anti-clockwise thunk. It's that initial movement you're going for.

That is after loads and loads of the wire brush, WD40, heat, WD40, heat routine.

Tomguy · #4 12-16-2002, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Rackne
Try using a hacksaw blade or a small cutting wheel on a dremel to make a slot to place a screw driver in. Drive it in as deep as possible then use a wrench on the screwdriver for torque. The dremel method is so much faster....

I've thought about it but I think I'd break the screwdriver before it budged. It might work though so I suppose I'll try it. After skalie's idea that is (I like the easy way out if possible). I just wonder if I can get it with a "thunk" because the hub would probably spin.

gmask · #5 12-16-2002, 03:29 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Tomguy
I just wonder if I can get it with a "thunk" because the hub would probably spin.

Put a floor jack under it to keep it from turning..

What type of drill bit were you using? You probably need a cobalt bit and several of them and and some extractor tips. You drill into center of bolt and then tap in the extractor and turn counter clockwise.

Tomguy · #6 12-16-2002, 03:58 PM

Paul: The fact you know that the name of the mall in Scranton begs me to ask: Where are you from?
I'm actually only about 5 mins from the Wyoming Valley mall, I just figured people would recognize Scranton before Wilkes-Barre or even less likely, Bear Creek

Tomguy · #7 12-16-2002, 05:33 PM

Ah, ok. That makes sense then. Maybe I can drive up to you sometime with my w108.

I have seen about 2 others in the area: A blue one, and the other day going up the road I live on, a brown one (while I was working on mine). Have you ever seen a silver one around? I'm pretty sure I've got the only one in this area. About 6 years ago, maybe more, we'd drive it almost every weekend to my grandmother's in west Scranton.

Bleh, I think my dog ate the mandrel for my cutoff wheels. I saw her pick up the sanding disk mandrel (which was right next to it) about 2 hours after I was done tearing up the basement looking for it so I assume she got it. She's a cutie but she eats EVERYTHING. Looks like I have to run out and get that too.

leathermang · #8 12-16-2002, 09:49 PM

Here is what you are needing for a drilling job like this... they don't make them anymore.. but they are regularly available on Ebay for less than $20 .... amazing tool.... you can read about the same principle in " The machinist's Bedside reader" with regards to the "Cole Drill"....it is like an auto feed blacksmiths post drill except you hold on by wrapping the chain around the item...

neileg · #9 12-17-2002, 04:32 AM

If the bolt is just proud of the flange there is another way!

Take a nut with a bore slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolt and clamp this onto the broken bolt. Then arc or MIG weld inside the bore of the nut. Use your favourite spanner or socket on the new nut, and it should come out.

Remember, attach the earth clamp of the welder to the nut, not the hub or you'll weld the bolt to the hub and make the whole situation worse!

leathermang · #10 12-17-2002, 08:23 AM

There is a rod which I have used for this for years... and ACE carries it ( and you can buy them one or two at a time ) ... it is called "high alloy" 1000.....bluish tint to the coating....If you have a way...take out the threads before welding ..use a grade 8 nut.... in the fitting up... have solid metal to solid metal ... it is not easy to plug weld in a hole like this and get a good weld the first time... so if you have a chance practice a few times...welding a little bit at the down position, letting it cool, chipping out the slag and then rotating so you are again welding in the flat position .....
However, a chain drill will drill that bolt... and it gives you the ability to take the threads off a grade 8 BOLT and place it into the drill hole... and weld it in.... which is much easier than welding in a hole...

Tomguy · #11 12-17-2002, 12:06 PM

Let's see.... MIG or arc welder... nope, don't have one

Only about 2mm of the bolt is sticking out. It broke off a little past the head and keep in mind, it broke when it was held against the wheel, so it's probably somewhat tight in there.
I'll run out today after my Dr's appointment.

neileg · #12 12-18-2002, 07:34 AM

Quote:

Let's see.... MIG or arc welder... nope, don't have one

You can't run old cars in the UK without a welder, the rust is just too bad!

Quote:

it is not easy to plug weld in a hole like this and get a good weld the first time..

Yeah, maybe, but the weld doesn't have to be too good. An arc welder is harder than a MIG. With a MIG you just point the torch and squeeze. The hardest part is pulling the trigger with your fingers crossed

240 Ed · #13 12-18-2002, 09:20 AM

Here is what I would try.
I would dremel a slot in the bolt, for a large screwdriver. You ain't never gonna get it loose with a screwdriver, I think you know that.
But.
Go to Sears and get yourself their sweet hand-impact driver. $25 ! It comes with a large slotted bit. Have at it with a sledge or ball peen hammer. DON'T USE A CLAW HAMMER!! Claw hammers are hardened and not meant to hit steel, they can shatter.
You will use this tool many times in your life, trust me. especially if you have motorcycles!

Quote:

The hardest part is pulling the trigger with your fingers crossed

Ha, Ha!

240 Ed · #14 12-18-2002, 09:23 AM

Oh yeah,

And don't use WD40. It is crap for penetrant.
It is a Water Displacer, thus the WD. It is the 40th formula they tried that worked. Thus the 40. Great for distributor caps.

Get some actual penetrant, much better.

Tomguy · #15 12-18-2002, 04:27 PM

Well, I have yet to get my poor butt out to Sears but I should do so this evening (soon). The main problem is that the slot doesnt hold the screwdriver even. The bolt isnt sticking out much at all and if I cut any deeper I'll dig into the hub (and I DONT want to do that... they're balanced for a reason

). The slot I did gouge in it with the cutoff wheel is about 4mm deep in the deepest spot, but it's naturally round so on the edges where a large bit would go in, it's only about 2mm deep and I already stripped those 2mm tring to get it. I need an extractor, I would imagine it's the only possible way to get it out... either that, or get a new hub... which isnt on FastLane...