Peter: Well, it's the flap control... I can just leave it off the lever so I can still close the valve
And I believe the one is actually a resonator. I don't know which one, I don't have my emissions manual here (I think it's in there) but it's what gives the car such a nice sound

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Nice sound? Bad muffler, shouldn't hear much of anything on a Benz, even one 30 years old. Diamler decided in the late 60s that a major cause of driver fatigue was noise, so they made all of their cars as quiet as possible. Not quite the same as new Japanese cars, but very quiet.

I think the rear is technically a resonator (perforated pipes in a box) while the front is a muffler (pipes don't go all the way through), but I could easily be wrong. For sure mine sounds like a sick hotrod, what with a large crack in the collector on the left side and an iffy connection at the front muffler. Sounds sorta lumpy, and that's the way it runs, too! Need new plugs someday (they are in the back seat at the moment....)

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I didn't say it was loud . I said it had a nice sound. And I think it does. Maybe my muffler and/or resonator IS bad. It's been like that for 10+ years then.

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Not sure if this would be applicable to your car - you have such a long list!! But on my '70 280se (111) I had Randy Durrance's guidance - the vet's list archive at www.mbz.org to work with. He suggested screwing in the top of an MB spark plug to use as a handle. The plug would screw in place of the slotted screw. Then very SLOWLY and CAREFULLY push the valve IN slightly and then SLOWLY and CAREFULLY pull it out. You are definitely right about there being a risk of stripping the valve so be careful and make sure that the model of heater is roughly the same. I would assume if the spark plug fits then its probably right but I can't guarantee it. I can only say that it worked for me. Assuming this works then clean the valves(as well as the inside of the valve) and use some anti-seize lubricant on the valve itself before replacing it. Make sure you use the same instructions for reinstallation I noted above - but in reverse. ONE OTHER VERY IMPORTANT THING - place a hash mark on both the valve body and the sleeve (use nail polish) so that you can relalign the valve when you reinstall it. I hope this was helpful. Good luck.

Peter Kaufman

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'70 280SE Cab. (111)

I forgot - one other thing. Replace the one or two O-rings in each valve body. They are still available from MB - they are overpriced for an O-ring but still cheap.

Peter Kaufman

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'70 280SE Cab. (111)

Peter, Thank you so much for your great replies!

The one about the spark plug is absolutely priceless! And I shall use that.

BUT

My question originally is how do I get the levers off of the valves? Without stripping the head of the screw? It has a slotted head screw holding the lever onto the valve and it is absolutely TIGHT!

There is no room for an impact, or a long screwdriver (due to a bad angle of attack) so I need to use a short driver, but how do you get enough leverage/pressure to undo the damn thing.?

alas, and oh well.
I am taking a break on that chore and doing something easy. Like putting in a different rear end, which by the way, weighs in at 6,873 lbs, easy.

__________________
Ed
1981 300CD (Benzina)
1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles!
1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido)
1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine!
1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!)
1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!)
1977 Suzuki GS750B
1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold)
1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser)
1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago")
Solex Moped
1975 Dodge P/U camper


"Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!"

Ed:

I noticed the same thing, which is why mine still need replacing. They are brass, so the screw shouldn't be siezed, just stuck a bit. Will post my results later -- try soaking in penetrating oil for a couple days first, it may help (if you can stand the smell, drive it, too, so the heat helps the oil get to the threads)

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

For those of you who still don't have a set of levers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6765&item=2400019498

Rather cheap, same seller I got mine from... they're nice, and are indeed Febi's

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k