The Master Cylinder on the 220 is leaking fair amounts of fluid. The pedal has gotten softer recently. It's not the booster and assuming all other units are working well.
Is it safe or just as good as a new Master Cylinder to rebuild an old one?
It is early 63 so its a single circuit. To update to dual circuit would require re-plumbing so I don't think I'm going to do that. Unless thats not that hard?. . .
So a new cylinder is about 200 bucks and the kit is cheap.
Is that something I can do myself? I don't want to die.
Should I have the mechanic do it?

Thanks for your help.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Josh:

Rebuilds are easy, with the following caveat: If the master cylinder bore is damaged, it's junk.

This can be done by the home mechanic, and I assume you are smart enough to check the function of the brakes before you wind it up on the highway!

Typical rebuild kit is all the guts -- you compress the operating rod into the master cylinder and remove a snap ring, then pull the guts out. Should have all new stuff in the kit, but may need the pushrod and/or snap ring. German kits are usually conservative -- the only thing you keep is the casting!

You must inspect the bore -- any scratches or corrosion, get rid of it. Under NO circumstances can you hone it, it you do, the seals will be undersized and it will either leak or fail quickly. For that car, a new master cylinder is MUCH cheaper than sheetmetal damage!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Thanks for the reply Peter.
I don't desire to take any chances, particularly with that car.
I'll have my mechanic inspect the bore when I get it apart.
I feel better about doing this.
Thanks!

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6