I need to inspect the bore of the brake master cylinder before I order Either rebuild or new one. RE 220Sb 1963 single circuit, front disc

What is the best way to go about draining the brake fluid and then disassembling the B master cylinder?
I know its a bit of a dumb question but I dont want to go in blind.
thanks very much
Josh

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Just hook up a pressure bleeder to it and blow it out. You'll still have a little drip out on you, but you'll get most of it.

Len

Or, if you don't have a pressure bleeder, you can suck the old fluid out of the reservoir with one of those rubber battery fluid bulbs (Commonly known as a 'turkey baster') Use a new one that hasn't seen battery fluid yet.
Auto parts stores have them and I've even seen them at Walmart!

Loosen the lines just enough so you don't have to fight with the line nuts after the cylinder is loose, but not enough that they drip, then remove the cylinder mounting bolts/nuts and, if you have the separate brake servo, mounted at the left front of the engine compartment, disconect the brake pedal linkage hardware (If your brake booster is on the firewall, bolted to the master cylinder, forget about the pedal linkage), then remove the lines completely with a wad of paper towels handy to catch the drips. Remove cylinder and reservoir and dump fluid. Wash off any underhood fluid spill with hot water.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

For jobs like this I've gone to my local vet and bought 30cc syringes that are great for removing liquids from small places. If you find a vet that treats larger animals as horses, they may have the larger syringes as they are used for dosing out medicine.
There are no needles, just a nib to slide on a short piece of vacuum line to get into small holes. The syringes cost about $3 @.

Tobias MB
4 MBs

Thanks for the replies.

So Mark, I should disconnect the brake pedal linkage at the connection to the plunger inside the cabin by the firewall?
(got the remote booster)
Also, Partshop doesn't carry the rebuild kit, I guess it must be a liability thing but the new cylinder is cheap. It's only about 109 bucks or so!

Is there any precautions I need to know about regarding the brake booster? I don't want to mess that thing up, already put $600 into it.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

If you have the booster (often called a power brake servo) that's separate from the master cylinder and mounted at the left front corner of the engine compartment, you'll probably need to disconnect the rod at the pedal. You'll need to remove the master cylinder with the rod attached and then remove the snap ring or circlip that holds the rod into the cylinder. You shouldn't need to mess with the power brake servo, other than when you need to bleed the brake system.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Well, I ordered the new master cylinder from PartsShop. Unfortunately when I opened the box, it was a dual circuit master cylinder. I did specify that is was a single circuit but no big deal, mix ups happen. So, what I thought was going to be a 129 dollar part turns out to be a 400 dollar part from Mercedes. Well, thats still a lot less than sheet metal repair.
So I guess she'll have to sit a little longer since I'm spending most of my money on covering my roomates rent. (one being my brother)
Maybe the current master isn't bad. I guess I should remove it and have it inspected. Maybe there is some other reason it is losing fluid.
Alas, best thing to do is replace it, it looks old and its really leaky in that area.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6