Clean those camshaft oilers... PLEASE! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Tomguy · #1 05-21-2003, 01:19 AM

Do it as a favor for me! Please don't let your cams wind up looking like this!
The first lobe is "good" (compared to the others in the pic, at least). Trying to show the tips of the lobes (or what's left of them!). I can only assume it's from a clogged oiler tube because this engine was never run dry!

#2 05-21-2003, 07:01 AM

Apart from changing oil at proper intervals how doe sone clean the oiler tube?

Aaron · #3 05-21-2003, 11:35 AM

I'm willing to bet that camshaft is from the right hand cylinder head if it came off of a 4.5. Infrequent oil changes lead to this especially on 4.5s.

The way to clean the tubes is to unclip them (you'll need new clips) and blow compressed air through them. Be careful in the reassembly and make sure to remove any traces of broken clips from the tube with a small screwdriver. When the clips get old they become brittle and break like anything else plastic. You need to change the end clips as well.

joshhol · #4 05-21-2003, 11:46 AM

I had the good fortune to catch my clogged oiler tube right at the outset of its path of destruction. It was clogged right above cam 1 seen through the oil filler cap on the 280 SE! The lobe just looked dry when I was adding oil, and then I started the engine and observed that no oil was flowing onto the cam.
Had it been another lobe, I would never have seen it!! The Gods of Mercedes smiled on me yet again.
There was just a little chunk of debris in the hole over the lobe that got lodged in there, thats all it takes. All the other lobes were getting oil. Now, whenever I take the cam cover off, I run my finger along the bottom of the oil rail to feel for any obstructions.
I assume it was from lack of regular oil changes that caused the build up, the car had not seen the best of maintenance before me.

To correct it, and I can only speak for what I did on the 4.5, you have to remove the oiler tube, which is held into the cam towers by little plastic tabs. Very unfortunately, when you pry it out of its place, the plastic tabs shatter and leave little chunks inside the oil passage in the cam tower. I know of no other way to get it out. So, when I got it out, after freaking out and then learning that it is un-avoidable, I went after every little chunk with tweezers and Q-tips dipped in solvent. Then you can buy the plastic tabs very cheaply and reinstall the tube after blowing it out and running some cleaner through it, whatever you want to do to clean it up.
Now, when reinstalling the tube, you have to be gentle so as not to break the plastic tabs. Gentle tapping with the wooden end of a hammer or some kind of block, keeping the tube even as you tap it into place. You don't want to tap the left side all the way down then do the right. Make sure you get it as far down as it will go.
For a better, more expertise explanation, do a search on my user name and look up the threads entitled "Cam lobe pain" or the like and better, more articulate minds will show the way.

Tomguy · #5 05-21-2003, 01:50 PM

Well, I guess I got lucky on the plastic part... ALL of my clips are fine and not cracked at all!
This was a 4.5 and yes, Aaron, it was the right side. I am going to take a look at the left one after I finish this one. I dont think it's too healthy either.

1967250s · #6 05-21-2003, 06:40 PM

Ouch!...these are scarry cams man.
How was it running with that?

joshhol · #7 05-21-2003, 09:47 PM

I don't know how a cam could get that bad without making a Gawdawful noise.

But then again, I was forced to drive to work one day knowing the lobe wasn't being oiled and I didn't notice anything.
I think oil splashing around at high speeds kept enough on the lobe to keep it from committing Hari Kari. (sp?)

Tomguy · #8 05-22-2003, 03:48 PM

I dont know HOW but it wasnt any louder than normal, and the idle had just started getting a little rough when we parked it, but our mechanic told us that the cams were toast. I didnt think it'd be THAT bad!

Oh well, I have to wait until Wednesday for my 2 other rocker arms to get here

UPS (std. ground) from Cali = slower than USPS!

JiveTurkey · #9 10-13-2009, 09:27 PM

Just reminds me of the time Peter Eagan (road and track) was convinced a car he was driving had perfectly round camshafts. I actually chuckled when I read that in one of his columns.

280EZRider · #10 10-13-2009, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mapab

Apart from changing oil at proper intervals how doe sone clean the oiler tube?

By changing to synthetic oil.

meltedpanda · #11 10-14-2009, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 280EZRider

By changing to synthetic oil.

I am afraid the old gals would spring a leak in other places

, I have heard this with synthetic oil, any truth?
Seems to support your post

loepke72 · #12 10-14-2009, 02:45 PM

The way I understand it, synthetic oil is pretty good at cleaning up deposits left behind by other oils. If you have an older engine with spotty maintenance history and change to a synthetic, it is possible that some deposits around sealing surfaces can get washed away and then leak oil. It's more a case of age and/or neglect than synthetic oil "causing" leaks. The repairs were needed to begin with; there were false sealing surfaces present in the form of oil deposits before changing to synthetic.

I lost a cam lobe earlier this year after switching to conventional oil because I was a bit cash poor and could not afford the 0W40 Mobil 1 I had been using. The car developed a noise over time, and when I finally was no longer using it as a daily driver, I pulled the valve cover and found the worn lobe. Maybe the lobe was already on its way out, and the oil tube appeared to be OK. However, I believe the modern conventional oil speeded its demise. Most modern oils have less anti-wear additives in them due to concern over catalyst poisoning. These additives are not required as much by newer engines using roller bearing valve trains. Our older engines need the added protection due to sliding contact in the valve train. ZDDP (ZincDialkylDithioPhosphate) is the main additive that has been reduced in many oils. Last time I checked, Mobil 1 0W40 had 1000PPM of ZDDP additive, which is more comparable to previous motor oils.

meltedpanda · #13 10-14-2009, 03:24 PM

ahh makes sense, thanks

Norgermish · #14 10-29-2009, 10:31 PM

Don't forget about where all that metal from the cam lobes went to!!!

JMURiz · #15 10-30-2009, 09:21 AM

Mobil 1 15w50 is the oil of choice on ZDDP loving aircooled VW/Porsche engines, that's what I know.
My mechanic said we should use it, and don't worry about a leak, they all weap a bit of oil.

I'd say change the gaskets and run some synthetic in there and all will be good, you can buy a drip-pan from from your FLAPS and you're in business.

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