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+++ Rusted floor boards +++
I posted those pics in the diesel forum about this subject.
There is alot of good info if you want to take a look. Advice on floorboard rust, please I decided to share "The Monster's" whoas with you guys. Here is basicaly what I have writen : ----------------------------------------------------------------------- This thread is right on time for me. I have discovered major (to me) rust dammage on the front driver side floor bord It's where the rocker meets the floor & floor to crossmember. From the looks of it, repairs were done (with metal & TAR), I would say 7-9 years ago when the car was painted!? And guess what? the infiltration were not identafied properly and the window seal NOT replaced. So everything as to be redone by ... guess who? I will use a combination of metal & fiberglass. Not having any special tools to cut or bend metal, I need to know what do I need to work with metal? ------------------------------------------------------------------------ I was given good advice by leathermang and others. the discution was about metal guage, fiberglass and rivets... Here are the pics. #1 : top view (driver side)
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#2
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#2 : top view with graphics
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#3
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#3 : rocker
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#4
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#4 : rocker close-up
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
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#5 : crossmember
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#6
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tools
ah rust - I know it well. I'd ugest getting a good pari of sheet metal shears for making the patches
For the cutting the floor, i'd start by buying or renting an electric sheemetal nibbler. The ones I've used are electric, but they also have air-powered ones. Allow you to do neat curves and odd-shaped cuts in heaver gauge metal. scott:p |
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Thanks tristar_north
I have never done metal work before and have done some investigation on nibblers. What would be (in your opinion) the guage of the original floor? Have you hever tried an acid treatment on rust as mentioned on the diesel thread? Should I use stainless or treated metal for the patch? Dan
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
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Here is a pic of floor after.
Considaring that I did not have the proper tools to bend the metal, I like what I did! There are still a few screws that I need to screw, but to be safe I have to drill the holes from under the car. the metal is 22 guage, the paint is plastic rust paint.
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#9
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Nice job Dan!
Now undercoat the bejezuz out of the bottom and paint the top, then get some asphalt sound deadening and you will be in hog heaven. The car will be somwhat quieter without the holes in the floor! Warmer in the winter, too. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#10
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Quote:
I guess the asphalt deadening stuff cum's in a spray can and that it goes under the car!?
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
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Dan:
The sound deadening material is a self-adhesive sheet material, available from JC Whitney and I'm sure other places. I'ts about 2 or 3mm thick, very heavy. I'm surprised you didn't have any on the floor to start with, my 280 does. Maybe a latter addition to reduce noise. If you don't have any such sheeting on the floors, I'd put it in, front to rear seat. It will reduce road noise quite a bit. Cut to fit with an Exacto or box cutter, then peel the clear sheet off and stick directly to the metal floor. The other side has a plastic sheet glued to it. It will soften with heat and conform to the floor -- it's fairly stiff at room temp. The spray stuff is the undercoat. Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#12
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My car had some sort of "hair" pading and "fomy" stuff over the central part of the floor.
Personnaly, I'm not to keen on sticking something to the floor. I prefer the type that is not glued for ease of access to the metal in the future, if ever something happens. Any suggestion on other type of pading?
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#13
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Yeah, looks better than the rust, but you've done little or nothing to restore the strength of your car. You would not be allowed to use your car on the road in the UK with that type of repair. To restore the original strength you would need to seam weld these patches, after cutting out all the rusty metal.
Sorry to rain on your parade...
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Cheers, Neil |
#14
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Quote:
FYI, most of the rust was cut out or nutralised before placing new metal. (not that I have to justify what I have done) The floor is not weaker or stronger than before; I have just slowed down the cancer.
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http://w3.uqo.ca/gravelle/images/250S/flood.jpg DAN 1967 250s The Monster Project a.k.a "The Monster" a.k.a "Rolling Coffin" --sold-- The photographic ART thread +++Price Guide+++ |
#15
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Hey Dan, I was wondering the same thing myself regarding strength. I have a 450SL with similar rust on the driver's floor, and was considering a screw/rivet repair along the lines of what you did. I've actually been debating (with myself) whether this would be a detriment to the structural integrity of the car versus welding in a repair. Simply, how much strength is there in a 20"x20" piece of floor? I think your repair looks great, Dan, and would certainly be within my capabilities (and much cheaper than farming it out for welding). Your thoughts, and anyone else's, on the strength issue for a car that's usually a weekend only hobby would be appreciated.
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