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  #1  
Old 07-08-2003, 02:22 PM
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Location: Flyover State
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450SE Coolant Flush

I did a search but have a couple of specific questions.

Is 1.5 gal a/f with the rest water okay? (California car)
Is MB coolant necessary on the old iron engine?
I will not be removing the thermostat to do this flush, can I get most of it out draining the radiator and the block?

Thanks

BTW, 1974 450SE W116

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63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
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  #2  
Old 07-09-2003, 01:33 AM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Block and rad drain will work, but with the thermostat in there it will take all day for the coolant to drain out. It will go much faster if you pull the thermostat.

1.5 gal is about right, will leave you a bit high on glycol.

You must use the MB coolant or equivalent (orange stuff), otherwise you are asking for serious corrosion in the head. MB has used aluminum heads on gas engines since the early 1950s, only the diesels had cast iron heads before the 60x engines.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #3  
Old 07-09-2003, 11:33 AM
mapab
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Modern antifreeze/summer coolant solutions do not cause corrosion even if the engine is made entirely of alloys.

Frankly I buy quality 3rd party antifreeze and change it every 2-3 years. I have nothing against people buying fluids directly from MB. I do too for things like hydraulic fluids, lsd oil, but most other stuff I buy from PartCo or whoever.

Adam
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  #4  
Old 07-09-2003, 07:27 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Coolant and water must be phosphate free to prevent corrosion of the aluminum. No coolant will provide corrosion protection when the anticorrosion compounds are exhausted.

Please note that many "green" antifreezes contain (or used to contain) phosphates and silicates as corrosion inhibitors and "water pump lubricants" The phosphate slowly corrodes the aluminum and the silicates precipitate as insoluble scale, both clogging the radiator and grinding away at the water pump.

MB Coolant or one of the "orange" products mixed with distilled water is by far the best, but still change it often, even the "long life" stuff. Coolant is much cheaper than a blown head gasket and warped head!

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Last edited by psfred; 07-15-2003 at 01:17 AM.
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  #5  
Old 07-14-2003, 12:20 AM
firestormer
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Cooling suggestions:

1. In climates with no real concern about freezing, remember that nothing cools better than pure demineralized water. Obviously, to that pure water we need corrosion inhibiter. Happily, Waterwetter has all that, plus the great quality of making boiling bubbles a lot smaller so that more coolant actually directly touches the metal and carries heat away. With freezing, use Waterwetter and around 15% alcohol coolant. Alcohol is a lousy "coolant".

2. I think 107's have a bit too much pressure under the car and in the engine area over 80 mph. That reduces the delta across the radiator.

3. Merc. radiators are dogs. Get an aluminum one.

4. Trash the metal fan in favor of an electric. Real easy to install, far safer and more effective.

Mark
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  #6  
Old 07-14-2003, 07:59 PM
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Location: Evansville, Indiana
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Alcohol is also a lousy antifreeze -- it leaks out from the hoses (goes right through) and will boil off if you get very hot. Use glycol.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!
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  #7  
Old 07-15-2003, 01:16 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
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"Alcohol" almost always refers to ethanol or methyl alcohol, or some other mono -OH compound, not a diol like ethylene glycol -- so far as I know, only diols are refered to as glycols.

Pure water boils at about 225 F or so at 15 psi, 50/50 glycol boils at 240F at 15 psi (exact values may not be correct, I didn't look them up). 15 % glycol will boil in a 15 psi system before the temp gauge reaches the red zone, leading to engine damage if not noticed. Please use 50/50 -- the loss in cooling preformance is more than made up for by the boiling protection.

I'm a professional chemist.

Please be precise, it saves trouble.

Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Last edited by psfred; 07-15-2003 at 01:21 AM.
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  #8  
Old 07-15-2003, 01:41 AM
firestormer
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Peter,

I just meant "Alcohol" as a general colloquialism for the entire class of toxic alcohols, of which ethylene glycol is just one. I never meant to suggest using any other alcohol for automotive cooling than a good EG.


Mark

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