+++ Where goes those bolts +++ - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

1967250s · #1 07-22-2003, 06:44 PM

Found them in the glove box.
I know that #3 is an eccentric bolt, but not sure where it goes.
#1 & 2 ???

Dan

Mark DiSilvestro · #2 07-22-2003, 08:12 PM

They're pivot bolts for your front suspension.
#1 and 2 appear to be threaded bushing bolts for your control arms, possibly inner pivot or lower kingpin mount.
#3 looks like the camber adjuster bolt for the upper kingpin mount.

Happy Motoring, Mark

300SDog · #3 07-22-2003, 09:09 PM

Just a guess.... but I'd say it's healthy sign that kingpin suspension has been rebuilt in the car.

Now git yerself a cheap grease gun, crawl around under the car at least each Spring and Autumn, and hit the 18 (or so) suspension and driveshaft fittings with grease.

Nobody bothering to pump grease into suspension joints is the ONLY reason that kingpin system needed rebuilding in the first place.

psfred · #4 07-22-2003, 09:57 PM

The eccentric is the camber adjusting bolt from the upper kingpin trunion, the other two are the lower trunnion bolts.

Inspect and verify that someone didn't just replace them with plain bolts! This would be a BIG PITA, a kingpin set is EXPENSIVE.

Grease it a lot. If it squeaks, grease some more, and made SURE the grease is actually going into the lower fittings.

Fittings are:

Upper trunnion, angle fitting in the center. Easy on both sides.

Steering knucke, in the middle, must turn wheels all the way right -- left side on the rear, right side on the front.

Lower trunnion. Buried up inside the control arm, sort of. You will have to dig out tons of dirt to find this one. Make sure grease goes in, these are the worst ones.

Lower inner control arm -- one on each end.

Upper inner control arm -- on top. right ange fittings (I may have these reveresed!).

Two on driveshaft, on at the u-joint, I think, and on for the center pivot.

Peter

1967250s · #5 07-22-2003, 10:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 240DieselDog
Just a guess.... but I'd say it's healthy sign that kingpin suspension has been rebuilt in the car.

Not sure it's an healthy sign.
Checked my wheel the other day and the right one as that "bad feeling in the stomac" clunck sound when I pull on the top of the tire.

I hope it's just the bushing, not the king pin.
Will know for sure before the end of the week! Will post pics....

This car is starting to be a PITA big time.

I din't pay much for it, considaring that about $800-$1000+ of parts came with it. But still, I wanted to drive it not rebuilt it! (in a gravel driveway BTW)

Ha well; live and learn.......

Dan

psfred · #6 07-23-2003, 12:46 AM

Dan:

Been there, done that -- all except the valve cover gasket change (reminds me, I have a head bolt with the head busted off I need to fix) and the upper trunnion kit, all the work on Big Blue has been in the gravel -- something about there being a dismantled car up on jack stands in the garage....

The klunk on the top of the wheel is a bad upper trunnion bushing. I paid something like $42 for a kit, includes new bolt, seals, threaded bushing, adjuster wheel, and nuts, etc. Easy fix once you get the old bushing out, its usually stuck.

You can make a tool from a 10mm x 60mm bolt and a grinder -- grind the head of the bolt down on both sides so it fits into the shallow slot in the bushing, insert, and run a nut on to hold it so you can unscrews the old bushing. Clean it all out, and the new one will screw right in. Unless it is so bad the threads won't hold on the new bushing, the kingpin can stay in.

It might also be inner bushings, these are a bit harder to get hold of. Mine a a shade loose, but withing tolerance and won't be replaced unless they get much worse. Lots of grease is a kingpin's best friend.....

Peter

1967250s · #7 07-31-2003, 12:35 AM

Took a look at the suspension at the same time I did the bleeding.
I personnaly can't see anything wrong with the upper/lower outer bushing.
You are right Peter, there is a lot of "crap" down there, but they look well greased anyway.
To see if the booshing are the problem, must I dismantel them?
I'll have to get the Bro to check that to......

Dan

psfred · #8 07-31-2003, 07:53 PM

Dan:

To check the bushings in the front end, jack the front wheel off the ground -- you can just put a floor jack under the lower control arm and lift the tire off the floor for checking.

Pull in and out on the top of the tire -- if it goes "clunk clunk", then see what part is moving -- the upper trunion is easy visible even with the wheel on, and if you can see the inner part moving in relation to the control arm, it's worn out. Otherwise, the inner bushings are worn and you will be able to see the upper control arm moving in relation to the frame.

Especially the inner bushings can have up to 2 mm movement and still be fine, just keep them well greased.

Lower trunion you can check by prying up and down on the bottom of the tire with a large pry bar. If the steering knuckle and wheel move with a "clunk clunk", see if it is the steering knucle moving on the kingpin the washers are wrong, oyu have too much play. If the control arm stays stationary but the trunion bolt moves, the trunion is worn out (the bolts you have are probably the ones that were removed). If the retainer nut for the kingpin moves up and down, those spacers are wrong.

Next, try pulling and pushing on the wheel with you hands at top and bottom. Movement here is either wheel bearings or steering knuckle.

Play if you pull on the fornt of the tire and push on the rear edge is something in the steering.

Some play is OK, but anything more than 1-2mm indicates a repair is needed.

Mine were all fine except for the right upper control arm trunion, now replaced.

Peter

1967250s · #9 08-02-2003, 09:56 PM

The Bros and I checked the suspension today and we can't see a thing moving. He want's to eliminate the wheel bering first.
From what I read on the CD, I need a special tool (puller?) to remove a part in there. As anyone removed it without that tool? How deed you do it?

Dan

1967250s · #10 08-02-2003, 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by psfred
Dan:
Play if you pull on the fornt of the tire and push on the rear edge is something in the steering.
Some play is OK, but anything more than 1-2mm indicates a repair is needed.
Peter

What do you mean by "something in the steering"? If this is the case, what should I look for? The tie rod assembly do move a bit!

Dan

psfred · #11 08-02-2003, 10:49 PM

Dan:

Wheel bearings require only "normal" shop tools, although the special driver for removing the races in the hub is somewhat easier than using a drift or punch to drive them out.

"Something in the steering" can be bad tie rod ends -- if they move, they are shot -- bad idler arm bushings (idler arm will move up and down in this case), bad drag link ends, loose steering box. Loose coupler on teh steering shaft will cause sloppy steering and rattles/snaps at the wheel on rough roads.

If you have loose tie rod ends -- that is, the steering knuckle moves and the tie rod doesn't, do yourself a favor and buy the whole tie rod assembly rather than just the end. The whole thing is less expensive than the two ends, and trust me, a Canadian car of that age has the adjuster rusted beyond the abilities of the ordinary mortal to loosen. For the whole deal you just have to remove the two ends from the drag link/pitman arm and steering knuckle, adjust new one to the same length as the old one, and install. You will spend hours trying to get the old one apart!

Get the nifty press type tie rod end remover (the one for import cars, the "american" one is too big, won't stay on).

Peter

1967250s · #12 08-03-2003, 01:13 AM

Thanks Peter,

The complete tie rod assembly as been replaced by the PO.

BTW, it's the only thing the PO had done on the beast

Will check the other items and keep you posted.

Dan