Tom:

If it sticks opening, chances are when it opens it also sticks open rather than popping shut properly, and believe me, this system dumps LOTS of fuel -- 200 cc in 30 sec (normal starting injection is 7-10 msec open time!

I'd replace that injector only and see what happens, but given all the dirt, they may all be shot. Looks like, on second glance, rubber stuff from dying gas lines -- surely it isn't soot! IF so, some injector cleaner may help. Mine 280 ran like that for a while too when I first got it going -- ate huge amounts of fuel and had coal black plugs, but it cleared out by the second tank.

There is a possibility the switchbox or the coil is bad, but the switchbox going usually means no spark at all. A bad coil, however, can give weak spark with all sorts of misfires.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Control box isn't new, but it's not the original - ONE of the reasons it was sitting for 5 yrs is because the box died sometime after being parked due to a busted pass side lower A-arm, and I finally found one about 1 yr ago iin the U-Pull-It and figured it was worth the $5 to see if it'd get it running again.

Just a little update: I set the timing more advanced and... WOW! Ok, cleaning the injectors gave me a crapload more power, but now it's like a beast. For the first time, I was able to burn rubber with it!

Points aren't Bosch but are only about a month old now. And the lobes were lubed w/Bosch grease (the Bosch points I got busted as soon as I put them on so I got quick replacements, Blue Streak, at AutoZone).

All my vacuum lines are great. Replaced most of the rubber lines to the injectors and all of the ones for the injectors when I took them off. MAP hose is good. ECU and MAP both change idle speed when adjusted. Same with idle speed screw. Don't know about chain strech. When I tested the injectors they opened and closed flawlessly except for the frozen one, but I'm hoping tat now that it's opened it'll clean itself. It DOES run much smoother now. No popping or anythign with timing advanced (by guess ).

I really dont' think anything is wrong w/my ignition system. I'll look at my trigger points tomorrow IF I have time (MOVING!). Just gfot a flat tire today Brand new tieres too.

MOST of the crud looked like rust - reddish-orange in texture. If I still have that sheet I'll see if any is magnetic. I had to replace a fuel rail under the driver's seat so I figure that's where it came from.

Basically I need to know how to adjust the timing I suppose, I mean, I THOUGHT I set it right but obviously not. Red header pipes = bad, lots of power and no pops and sparks = good. I might be too advanced now but it's bnetter than toasting my valves. Much less smoke now too (only smoke I noticed is when I let off the gas getting off the highway, slowing from 90 ) before, 90 was a struggle, now it's as easy as my mom's Intrepid!

Excuse my typing, the keyboard for my home PC sucks. But it's my 2nd machine, that's why it's only 1GHz anyway

__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

You're complaining about a 1 G machine! I've got a 250 upgraded to a 300 MHz G3 (no OS X for me!).

You must have a timing light to set the ignition timing. Remember that the driver's side front is #1. Basic timing is 5 ATDC with vac on the distributor, must rise to 7 BTDC with the vac unplugged. If it doesn't move (and the idle speed doesn't' come up when you pull the hose) the vac retard is stuck or the diaphram is leaking. If it is, just plug the line. Set timing to 7 BTDC in either case. You can go as high as 10 BTDC, but you then MUST use premium, NO cheating with a half tank of 89 octane, it's going to detonate on the highway and roast the valves.

Setting the timing at 5 ATDC with a bad vac diaphram makes this car a gas eating sloppy pig. Set the timing right and it flys

You also need to check the operation of the mechanical advance -- should to up to 35 or 40 BTDC as you run the engine up to 3000 rpm. If not, the mechanical advance is stuck or has a weak spring and you are missing out on power. Quick test is to rotate the rotor in the normal direction. It should turn against a spring and return to the start point consistantly when hyou release the pressure. If not, you need to take the distributor apoart and clean it, along with the trigger points.

The 4.5L should fly on the highway.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

I freed up the mechanical advance in Big Blue this evening. Tried to take the distributor apart, but couldn't get the pin out of the gear, so I just pulled out the little felt pad under the rotor and dribbled some PB blaster in there while I was cleaning the trigger points.

I clamped the dizzy in a vise (on the drive gear) so I would rotate the advance back and forth. I could move it full range, but it wouldn'r return, so I unclamped it and sprayed the advance mechanism down with PB Blaster then carb cleaner. Turned it back over and worked on the rotor shaft some more -- better.

Added some carb cleaner, then some ATF, and finally got it to move freely. Rinsed the points down with carb cleaner and re-greased the rubbing block. Reassembled (I'd pulled all the screws out) and re-installed.

Discovered that the timing light is dead, so set the timing to where it was before (screw mark on the slot). Will pick up a new timing light tomorrow, this one is 20 years old and a cheapie at that.

Runs like a champ -- had to turn the fuel down a bit at the MAP, it was stinking rich again! Must be getting more fuel!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Vacuum advance works fine. Now, for my reaction:

#1 CYL IS DRIVER'S SIDE? HOLY ****!

I thought 1-4 were pass side, 5-8 driver's side! HOW THE HELL is my engine even RUNNING?

Have a light. Have dwell meter. Will travel (really, they're in my trunk at all times ). Um.... PLEASE tell me you meant to say that #1 is pass, not driver's side! If not... how the hell does the layout go? This is how I thought it was...

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__________________
Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

I'm dyslexic, it's on the passenger side. I have to use a diagram each time, I can't remember.

Some days I have trouble with up and down, too, I think......

I just re-set the timing on mine this evening and discovered I had it backwards -- no sign of the set point, so I switched sides.

Runs much better now!

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!