280S Oil Change SIMPLE QUESTION - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

SoCalBomb · #1 09-21-2003, 11:47 PM

I have a '69 280S, it's do for an oil change. I've never changed the oil in this car, and don't know how much oil I need (I don't want to use the guess and check method). What oil grade would you guys use for a car of this age? I've been told that 20W 50 should be used. I found an oil filter (I only had to viste 4 shops to find it), but I am not sure where it goes. I'm assuming it goes into the cone/cylinder container that is located in the lower part of the engine, between the master-cylinder and the engine. Am I correct? Is there anything else I should know before starting the oil change?

Sorry,for this elementary question, but I simply don't know.

Mark DiSilvestro · #2 09-22-2003, 01:39 AM

The filter element goes in the canister on the lower left rear side (driver's side) of the engine block. Make sure that the new filter element comes with a replacement 'O' ring seal for the canister and that the top and bottom sealing rings for the filter element are still there when you remove the canister and in place when you install the new filter. You'll probably need a sharp tool to to dig the old 'O' ring out of the groove in the canister. Depending on the type of drain plug, you'll need either a 17mm or 19mm box-end wrench/socket or a 14mm hex/allen wrench. I run 20W50 year round in my '60 220S but seldom drive it in below freezing weather. I wouldn't run lighter oil than 10W40. Including the new filter, you'll probably need 6 quarts. Put in 5 and check, add as needed.

Happy Motoring, Mark

SoCalBomb · #3 09-22-2003, 05:09 PM

yes the new filter has an "O" ring. Thanks for all the information Mark.

autozen · #4 09-23-2003, 11:11 PM

Michael,
The 69 280s with the twin Zeniths is a very nice car. Don't let anyone tell that those carbs are junk. Those were very fine carbs, and anyone who says otherwise doesn't know you know what from Shinolla. A master Mercedes tech taught me those carbs many years ago, and I'll always respect them. After about 8 hours of work I can set a pair of them up to fire up the car, idle at the right speed, back out of the garage without stumbling, and cruise down the road, but I don't do that anymore. My real point is, Michael, that I don't think you should tackle this oil change without some on site help. There is a problem seating that filter housing properly. If your going to do it, put in 5 quarts, start the car, and religiously check under the car for an oil leak as the car runs for a few minutes. If no leak, shut the car and check the oil level after a few minutes.

Good luck,
Peter

SoCalBomb · #5 09-24-2003, 05:37 PM

i replaced the filter and oil, no leaks, which equals no problems. Thanks people.

autozen · #6 09-24-2003, 08:38 PM

Michael,

Congrads. You did a fine job, and I hope you heeded my warnings, because professional mechanics have trouble seating that filter.

Peter

rmasteller · #7 09-25-2003, 09:46 AM

Michael,

Did you confirm that the upper and lower seals were present inside the canister? These are critical as without them the oil can simply bypass the filter. If it's missing, you might as well not put a filter in there. The upper seal is typically the one missing, as it was on my 230SL which uses the same oil filter/canister arrangement. I will be getting a complete engine rebuild done (when I can get the spare cash) because of this.

autozen · #8 09-25-2003, 10:45 AM

Rodd,

You have a good point, but you failed to mention that the diameter of the upper seal you speak of is about 35 mm. He may think you are referring to the sealing ring for the canister. You are right. This seal is critical.

Peter

rmasteller · #9 09-25-2003, 12:23 PM

The upper seal is shaped like a cylinder, not a flat washer. Mine for the 230SL was about 20 mm in diameter and about 10 mm tall. It slides like a sleeve up and over the "post" that sticks down from the center of the upper assembly, where the canister bolt goes. Then, when the filter & canister are placed up against this from below, the center of the filter goes around this seal. So, this seal fits between the open center of the filter and the post on the upper assembly. I hope this makes sense.

The bottom seal should be replaced if you have no record of it. Mine was there (most canisters should still have them) but it was very hard and dried. A new soft rubber seal works better.

SoCalBomb · #10 09-25-2003, 03:23 PM

You guys are really scarying me!!!!!!!!

If I did the oil change wrong, how would I know without going back and taking off the oil filter cylinder?

My Oil pressure seems fine. When I first started the engine after the change, it took about a second or two for the oil pressure to register...but know it seems fine. The car runs fine, I've been checking for leaks, and so far I havn't seen a drop. The car runs at the temp. it should.

Should I be scared...I changed the oil basicly the same way I've changed it in my past W123?

autozen · #11 09-25-2003, 09:43 PM

Rodd is correct, and you should be concerned. The 123 is a different animal, and even with it you must drain the filter before you put the drain plug back or you leave a quart of dirty oil in the crankcase. Also if your 280S is a stick, make sure that the trans is filled with ATF and not 90w.

Peter

rmasteller · #12 09-26-2003, 09:01 AM

Michael,

Don't be scared about doing anything wrong yourself. With your cautious attitude, you probably would have noticed dropping a seal. The concern is, was it there to begin with? The only way to tell would be another oil change.

Everyone with this type of oil filter arrangement should check for this seal. I know all the W113 chassis cars had it on their M127, M129, and M130 engines. I don't know the list of other cars or engines.