New member - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

younggun85 · #1 09-27-2003, 04:52 AM

I am new to te forums here. I purchased my first car and my first Mercedes about mid August. I love the car and it's in decent shape, but it needs some work. I have been checking out the forum for a couple weeks and it has been helpful. I plan to get my 108 280SE running smooth by spring and then take the summer to work on my next project a mid sixties 200 series with fins that I want to turn into a chopped and dropped streetrod. I am currently trying to get over my rust and mechanical problems with my 280. It has what I've heard replied to as a no power: slow looses speed up hill and tops out a 66mph. And body wise I am replacing the front fenders and repairing the front rocker panels and the frame peice for the front bumper. owe and a huge HOLE which a toddler would slip through behind the rear driverside wheel. Besides a little body work a good wrenching and some loose wires it's in tip top shape. Missing the original radio which I hope to find a deal on and then I plan to put some dual electric antennas and some custom paint effects on it later. Plus I have a 1968 250s as a donor car. Almost forgot it's a six and the back window was smashed out a week ago. Plus alloys and all power, win,loc,snrf,strng.

pic below

engatwork · #2 09-27-2003, 06:35 AM

The low power/top end sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Start by replacing the fuel filter/filters.

younggun85 · #3 09-27-2003, 02:49 PM

But there was a post about one new member that was buying the same model and said that it had the same problem and another member said something about the fuel injectors and somehow it fixed itself.

psfred · #4 09-27-2003, 03:17 PM

Welcome to the list!

I love my 280 -- daily driver at the moment in spite of the horrible milage.

You wouldn't happen to have a spare bit of wood trim, the piece at the top of the passenger door? I'm missing only that one.

Get new windsheild gaskets (I know you will for the back, the one in there probably is too stiff to put on the replacement glass anyway) -- this is the source of the water that caused the rust in the floor. Both front and rear are gone, this will also ruin the wood trim at the base of the windsheild.

Low power is almost surely fuel supply -- filters for sure, and check the pump delivery. If you remove the hose to the IP, the pump must deliver a liter of fuel in 30 sec -- if not, and you have new filters, the tank screen is plugged or the pump is bad.

Top speed should be 115 or so.

Where did you get new fenders? I need one for the right side, possibly the left as well.

Peter

younggun85 · #5 09-28-2003, 03:09 AM

I don't think I will have to replace the gaskets for the windows they are in pretty good shape. This car is in great shape with only 81,000 mi. on it, which is proven by the original maintnance booklet. I beleive the gas problem is probably from it sitting for a long time. I found evidence of front end damage which is responsible for most of the front end rust and is probably why it sat for a while. PSfred I can't help you out with the wood trim the piece in the donor car is damaged, the layers are splitting. I could try a little wood glue and a clamp and see if I could repair it for you. No can do on the fenders though. Any idea the price and type of fuel filter I should get. Also I have been meening to change the oil since I got it, but I can't find a wrench to fit the oil plug, does anybody know where to get one? I have looked at all the local places that sell tools most of the local car repair stores and no luck. Any help here? It's the hex style. Also I should ask would the alternator for a '68 250S 6cyl work for a '72 280SE 6cyl? anyway to find out? Also I beleive the hole in the back is from the debris kick up by the rear wheel. I am in minnesota and that happens a lot around here in a very short time.

which why I plan to coat my entire underbody with rubberized under coating even though I don't plan to drive it in the winter.

psfred · #6 09-28-2003, 11:56 AM

Younggun:

If the trim is separating, I'll take is as is (I have the correct glue) -- don't use standard wood glue, it won't stick properly.

Any parts place that deals with MB filters can get you the correct one, or just get it here on FastLane mail order -- it will be the right one.

Get some RedLine fuel injector cleaner (or Techron if you cannot find RedLine) and pour the entire bottle into the tank of nice, clean, fresh 92 octane premium you just put in. This will clear all the crap out of the IP and injectors, cold start valve, etc that has built up from the dead gas that was in there. The old gas has lost most of it's volatile content, and is way high on detergents, additives, adn the "diesel" end -- it won't burn for diddly and you have probably carbon fouled the plugs. New gas and some milage will fix that. DO NOT fiddle about with the fuel injection, you can seriously damage the pump attempting to set it while the engine is running.....

The hex driver you need is available at Sears -- get a whole set of metric hex drivers, you will need others, too. Don't use a "near fit" SAE hex driver on metric bolts, they will strip instantly!

If the window gaskets are inflexible at the outer lip (i.e. they don't lift and snap back easily with a fingernail) plan on replacing them. The rust damage to the left rear fender is from water leaking into the trunk, there is a drain on the other side. Water tracks on the rear wheel is a dead giveaway. If you don't replace them, the floors will rust out -- water sits under the asphalt sound deadening material on the floor and east away....

You will love this car!

Peter