Awesome guys, thanx. I was checking dismantlers yesterday without much luck. I'm not that keen on putting a used auto blower of unknown age in there anyway. Expect I'll go the suggested route with these alternative fans.

While the 120MM (4 3/4") fans will work, I think the orginal is closer to 6 or 7 inches in diameter. I may still have the box out in the garage, I'll try to check later today.

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120

hey 250 coupe, I looked at your link -- query -- I guess you utilized one of the devices which is actually an impeller (like the original squirrel cage) versus a typical fan set-up? BTW, I measured my old unit (thoroughly mangled in the extraction process ) at 6". So, to fit in the hole with any degree of snugness, I'm surmising a 5 1/2" or less should be cool. Did you need to reverse the blades to ensure air moved the correct direction? Thanx again. If a regular fan-type set-up works, tomguy's link has some real cheapies which seem to be quite a bit quieter.

Actually on a 114 the fan is a regular bladed type. I think I used digikey number CR279-ND, a 172mm x 150mm DC brushless fan. Compared to the stock fan in my 250C, it was about as loud but sounded less hurried if that makes sense.

And now for something completely different.

I just remembered an Ebay boo-boo out in the garage. It has a white blower wheel and a black plastic ring for mounting. The motor sits inside the wheel. It has no MB numbers on it but was advertised as fitting an MB. I goofed and didn't read the description right and bought it. The black ring is about 6 1/16" across and 7/8" tall, it looks like it had three non-symmetrically placed mounts. It's about 4 1/4" tall.
I've no use for it, let me know.

Michael

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Usta haves '69 250/8, '76 280C, 1971 250C 114.023, 1976 450SEL 116.033
Current have, 1983 300SD 126.120

250 coupe, thanx for the additional info and the offer of the ebay item. Since I am going in through what is essentially a 5 1/2" hole in the ductwork, your item will be too large for me to use -- DAMMIT. I suspect it is an exact replacement for the blower I tore out, but, alas, by using my cheap and dirty hack method I am relegated to using a smaller diameter unit to go in from the "wrong" side. BTW, if it is a proper 108/109 blower, I heard somewhere that the dealer's quote $300 for these

Actually, dealers charge $500-$800, depending on who and where, considering FastLane quotes a price well over $300!

If I were you, KPB, I would mount >1 fan in there from the cowl side (not underneath it on the ehater box side). Make a shroud to converge the air through that hole for the old blower. You'll get more air quieter (since the fans will actually be outside the car)!

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Current:
2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
2018 Durango R/T

Previous:
1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k

Yo, tom, interesting thought. I may give your idea a whirl. I am still abit concerned about how a traditional fan will function in place of the original impeller. Seems as if the air would be directed straight down in the heater box rather than into the chutes for distribution via the ductwork behind and below the dash. Guess the air would eventually finds its way out since the fan will keep pushing more behind it.

BTW -- watta chunk of change for a blower

FWIW, here's an update.

Placed a CPU fan (130 CFM) on the outside of the hole under the cowl, directed down into the space formerly occupied by my original dead blower. It is so quiet (around 30db) that I cannot hear it a bit.

Now, about the air coming out of my defroster vents...Well, it isn't overpowering (about like a squirrel breathing) but it sure beats the nothing I have had since I bought the 108 in Dec. 03. BTW, the fan cost $14 and when I used a sabre saw to open up the sheetmetal, I left one end connected and just peeled it up like a hatch to work through. Sealed it back up and painted everything under there flat black -- noone knows! May keep my eyes peeled for a stronger fan but the one I installed had the highest CFM rating on the shelf.

Thanx all for the suggestions and this thread

Has anyone taken any pictures of the process or with the unit out? I gather from what I've read that removing the heater box involves the core?

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1982 300SD
1967 250S
...what was I thinking......

You asked for them.

Picture #1 is from my 280 daily driver. Console in place, radio out.



Picture #2 is from my project 280C. Console, seats and heater box removed.



#3 is where the blower fan mounts to the center tunnel under the dash.



#4 is a collection of all the stuff removed to get the fan out and this is not counting the heater/AC box itself which is in the trunk of the car in it's separate pieces!



And #5 is the little bugger itself!

That's a great photo-spread of the fan job on a W114/115. Does anyone have something similar they could post on a W108? Having recently replaced the heater controls on a '72 280SE, I now know the W108 heater system is differet from the Fintail's. as well as the W114/115 heater.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Yeah, I'm interested in the 108 as I have a 1967 250S and I'm really not looking forword to this.

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1982 300SD
1967 250S
...what was I thinking......

I know, these are squirrel cage fans and large. They move a lot of air.

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old

But those squirrel cage fans are too large. if you're thinking to substitute a squirrel cage for the rotary heater fan in one of these cars, where would you put it?
One or two large computer fans rigged in the cowl air-intake, would probably be the best solution, if you want to avoid a two day ordeal, or firewall cutting!

Happy Motoring, Mark

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DrDKW

Just an idea here; but if the squirrel cage fan pulled air, from the heater core into the cab, it could work.

There seems to be enough space, on the carpet, inside the cab.

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1970 280S M130 engine- good runner
1971 250 M130 engine- #2 rod bearing, gone
1971 280SE (blown engine,parts car)
1977 German 280S W116-only 33 years old