On my W116 '77, all of a sudden, the rear schocks seem stiffer and with more resistance and shorter rebounds. Car doesn't sway as much. Why?

All I did was do a bit of static bouncing on the rear end, just to stiffen things up. And I went udner to check shocks - OK.

Could one have been sticking, dirt, inner sludge, etc? It's now a bit cooler outside. Could the cool air have helped some?

Also.....I ntoed that my rear shocks are the F & S style - short tube, with strut on bottom (covered by rubber boot)? Really short tube. Why were these used?

Any thoughts on the shocks?

You can still buy Sachs shocks (the S in F&S). For whatever reason, they put the oil reservoir on top, the boot is just to keep dirt out of the seal.

Colder weather will stiffen the shocks until you drive for a bit.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Peter:

Thanks. Were these the original equipment shocks? anyway, they seem fine.
Work well. So I won't change them. Academically speaking, do you think Bilstein comforts on the rears would perform better in warmer temps?

As to other issue:

I noticed that my right front wheel was cambered out much more than the left side, and beyond the norm. (meaning: leaning in at top). I know about the eccentric bolts that cotnrol this on the lower control arm, but have never adjusted thesae. Looked at it, though. Question:

The bolt on front seems adjusted way too much towards the right side. This is undoubtedly causing the camber issue on that side. Do I adjust this bolt inward (counterclockwise) a bit? That's what the Chilton's seems to indicate. I know I have to do both bolts. Or is it some indentation for a screwdriver on the bolt face? I don't see any on mine - so I suppose the adjustment is turning the bolts themselves. If they are too tight or frozen (I'll see), should I bathe them in W-D overnight?

thanks.

Bob