|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Replacing A Tranny Mount
A simple question for you seasoned DIY's / Mechanics:
I want to change my rear tranny mount. The Haynes manual does not cover this procedure. Do I need to first disconnect the driveshaft? Or, can I just support the tranny and drop the small crossmember it is mounted to? Thanks, Richard |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Haynes manuals are pretty rudimentry, not good for much beyond routine maintenance, and even then you have to be careful, they aren't always accurate (they show GM alternators, for instance).
Just hold the tranny up with a jack, remove the two nuts on the bottom and the nut on the top (or two bolts in the bottom), the drop the crossmember if necessary to get the old mount out. Some models will allow you to just lift the tranny a bit and rotate the mount out, others won't have enough clearance. When you put it back in, tighten the top nut, then idle the engine for a few seconds to center the bottom bolts without the jack under the tranny, then tighten. Othewise, you may push the tail of the tranny off center with the jack, getting the driveline slightly cocked, and it will vibrate. Peter
__________________
1972 220D ?? miles 1988 300E 200,012 1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000 1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs! |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
77280E -- I did this about two weeks ago on my 108 and discovered a thick aluminum shim between the mount and the crossmember. Thought it would be hard to fit back together and get the bolts through the shim bouncing about, but, with expert guidance from the chaps here, it was a breeze. Dunno if your newer chassis will have this hidden in there. Good luck.
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Replacing A Tranny Mount
Hi Peter,
Thanks for the advice. I enjoy, appreciate, and benefit from your participation on this forum. As well as many others. Thanks again! Richard |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Good Comment !
Good suggestion on "letting it idle for a few minutes".
I've been chasing a minor vibe off the line - I had a tough time getting my crossmember back in - it may well be "off kilter". I'll throw in a couple of others: Mark the position of the cross member before dropping - not critical, but helps prevent you from putting it back in askew off center as psfred said. Use a wood block between the jack and tranny pan (duh). New mount will be taller and you will have to jack the tranny up a bit. When you're in there check your flex disc and center bearing. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks kpb - I'll be on the look out for that!
Richard |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
JoeyTheB,
I was just thinking about marking the crossmember after reading these recommendations and I will use that block of wood. Thanks! Richard |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Successful Installation
I got the tranny mount installed today. A fairly easy job and lots of grease. The car feels as if it was 20 years younger. No harsh vibrations and it seems considerably quieter.
Thanks for all you help! Richard |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Fixed mine as well...
Had a slight vibration in reverse and taking off (0-20mph).
Redid the cross member, making sure to match the old marks (and do the idle trick as psfred suggested), and now it does MUCH better. thanks guys... |
Bookmarks |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|