Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Vintage Mercedes Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-24-2004, 05:48 PM
BlackE55
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Fintail FS, What to Look For?

There's a '66 230 forsale near me. The ad only provides this only this information:

"2nd owner, bought in Germany, excellent shape."

I haven't called the owner yet, but was wondering what to look for in these cars. I'm hoping it's a 6-cyl, but from I've read, the single headlight cars are typically 4 cyls.

Also, how do these cars perform at interstate speeds (65-75mph)? Both 4 and 6's. Assuming the car is a good driver; would I be a fool to drive it on a 250 mile trip?

I would have to sell one of my oldies to make room for another, and convince my wife, but thought I'd do so prelim research.

EDIT: A few years back I was interested in a 190SL or 230SL, had the money, but don't now since I bought a house last summer. I thought this might be a good entry level classic Benz (assuming the car is a straight, clean, good driver).

Thanks for any input/info.!

Here's the owner's photo:

Attached Thumbnails
Fintail FS, What to Look For?-230.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-24-2004, 07:23 PM
fintail's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 97
A 230 is a 6. You are right about the single headlight cars mainly being 4s, but the 230 is the exception. When the 220 series was dropped, the 230 carried on with the 6.

http://www.heckflosse.nl/200230.htm

Look for rust above all else, that is what kills these cars. Then look for normal things...smoke, leaks, and routine mechanical issues. If it drives well, accelerates well, and shifts well, that's a good sign. Also check for tire wear...on higher mileage cars, the kingpins can get worn, and the car will eat front tires. A 230 is a carburetted car, and I don't know anything about the carbs...but I bet they can be fun.

My fintail is a 220SE, but it should be at least a good similar comparison for a 6cyl car. The cars are excellent at freeway speeds. They can be a little loud, as they like to be wound up, but they will keep up with fast moving traffic without breathing hard....I have cruised at 70-80 for several hour stretches in mine and the car was happy. I've taken mine on 500-1000 mile trips and had no real problems.

Looks nice in the pic.

Last edited by fintail; 01-24-2004 at 07:28 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-24-2004, 08:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: San DIego
Posts: 84
The first place to find rust is at the bottoms of the front fenders behind the front wheels. Especailly under the lower molding. Oft times the frame rail also starts to rust. Best way is to remove the splash guards and look. Then the same for the spare tire wells and bottoms of the rear fenders. This is normal even in cars from dry areas. Then places like the bottoms of the doors and around the headlamps. Also sometimes the bottoms of the taillamps. Also under the mouldings. They are pretty solid cars, though. If you find big rust holes in the bottoms of the frame rails a lot, then pass. It is a goner.

Good luck,
Walt...
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-25-2004, 12:55 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Alexandria, Virginia
Posts: 5,480
I owned one of these for about a year. For a '66 230, it was pretty well loaded - power steering, AC and Automatic. Mine shifted hard and was relatively thirsty so now I would prefer a stick-shift on these cars. The small sixes are geared to rev at highway speeds but if the engine is in good shape it can stand freeway driving. Check the oil pressure guage after warm-up. Hot oil pressure at idle shouldn't drop below about 15 and the guage reading should max out quickly once the car is moving. If the oil pressure struggles to read above half at 30 - 40 mph, walk away.

Happy Motoring, Mark
__________________
DrDKW
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-25-2004, 10:21 AM
BlackE55
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the information guys!

There's also a '65 220SE forsale near me as well. It'll be tough to test drive these cars, since the roads will be a mess for a while. Winter has finally hit southern WI and it's been colder than normal (as much of the country).

Chances are these cars won't sell until spring/suumer unless the seller is really ready to deal. I think the 220SE has been on collectorcartraderonline since the summer. (Thanks for the heads up Sixto!)


65 220SE
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-25-2004, 08:23 PM
300SDog's Avatar
gimme a low-tech 240D
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: central ky
Posts: 3,602
Weakest link on the 110??? Its gotta be RARE parts..... stuff like rear drum brake hydraulic pistons, clutch pedal master cylinder, column shift linkage, kingpin rebuilt kits (getting tougher to find) - probably next to nothing aside from that.

But wait...... unusual feature on the 110 is fact that MB experimented with several different clutch pressure plates and throwout bearing combos during the run of the 110 series - and none of the hard-to-find clutch components are interchangable!!!

Just a few weeks ago, i walked away from decently priced '67 200D because it had clutch issues with only 1/2 clutch pedal play..... The engine had been transplanted and current owner had not diagnosed the problem. Hell, it could have just been clutch pedal master cyl or even the easy to replace slave cyl - but i just didnt wanna take the chance on searching parts and ending up with $1200 complete clutch replacement.

For the typical vintage car fan, am thinkin the latter 6 cyl 110/230 is an odd-ball benz that doesnt live up to standards of more economical albeit esoteric and tougher to appreciate 40mpg diesels with identical coachwork...... So am suggesting the '65 220SE is the more desirable of the two you are looking at for everyday driving under modern traffic conditions.

Basically the '65 mech FI 220SE car will provide better performance, reliability and fuel economy than the 110 /230 carb version. Maybe you wanna give the aging "newer" benz in your sig.pic to the wife and dedicate yourself to owning/operating whichever vintage merc you decide upon? This would be healthy for the car because it would be driven everyday and none of the problems of an under-driven vintage MB would occur..... meanwhile, as father of the family you can always scream "poverty" for driving the family jallopy that you secretly know is superior to *anything* that MB has produced in the last 25 yrs - heheheh.

*Any* 6 cyl 220 or 230 Benz will happily run 80 mph ALL DAY LONG..... but mechanical FI on the 220SE car will provide better economy, superior performance and fewer maintenance issues.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 01-25-2004, 09:01 PM
Gilly's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
In addition to the previous comments

Well, rust bears repeating again; really watch for signs of rust EVERYWHERE on the finnies, esp the front fenders and the 1/4 panels and in the floorboards. Look for signs of rust repair, such as poor patch jobs and bondo.
The only other thing out of the ordinary from any other oldish car like this is to check over the rear "swing" axle for problems with the rubber boot at the joint or any signs of oil leakage. It's a BIG job to fix them correctly, have to remove the rear axle.

Gilly
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 01-26-2004, 02:16 AM
wbain5280's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Northern Va.
Posts: 3,386
There is a split boot available but the clips can be tricky. Really, only one side needs to come off.
__________________
Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 01-26-2004, 06:12 AM
Gilly's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Evansville WI
Posts: 9,616
Quote:
It's a BIG job to fix them correctly
I dislike the split boots, I've never seen a split boot that wasn't actually leaking. Maybe they'll last a year or two and all of them I've seen were older than that? I'd install the factory 1 piece boot only, unless someone really wants a quick-fix.

Gilly
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 01-26-2004, 10:06 AM
BlackE55
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Thanks again guys -- the weather is horrible to look at a car right now, so if they're around in a few months I'll look then. I can't imagine them being sold in the meantime. Not exactly a sellers market.

Again, I appreciate the education!

Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page