I would appreciate any advice on painting my 300SEL. Where do I find the color code? Can I change the tint just a little bid without hurting the value? How much should I pay for a Damn good paint job and how do you evaluate one. How may coats should I look for, how many clear coats, what are the buzz words that I should use to let the shop know that I'm on top of the deal. Anything would be helpful. Thanks

There is a plate on the radiator support with the options and the paint codes.

Figure on $3000.00 for a good paint job, one worthy of a 300SEL.

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Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

Ask about the quality of paint - for example, duPont makes good 2-part enamel that costs about $100 per gallon...... No doubt the shop uses wide variety of lacquers, enamels, primers etc. and it probably pays to spend extra to get the best paint. If you decide on clear coating, "yellowing" will be a question you want to ask about too.

For the sake of removing trim without bending or dinging - you probably want a shop that has painted MB's before and knows the tricks of unbuttoning stainless strips etc.

Also talk with them about 'set-up' time.... generally it takes a few months for car paint to dry completely - Should you NOT wax it or detergent wash the car after its been painted?? Should the car see alot of sunshine to help set the paint?? Should you avoid rain and sandy roads while the paint sets during the first month?? .... these are some questions i would ask.

In general, the worst time of year to paint the car has gotta be Nov/Dec..... ask them if you might get better results *after* the Springtime, say in May instead of March.

buzzwords for paint work: "orange peel" and "sagging" of paint - things you want to avoid (granular surface and droops from too much paint being applied).

From personal experience, I got very lucky getting my 280/8 painted long time ago with superb results...... the spray mechanic owned a 116!!!

No - you really can't change the tint/color without needing to paint the door jambs and then you're into a whole other level of cost. First find out what you've got - you may not have a clearcoated car. A non-metallic 300SEL from the late 80's may not be clearcoated. A $3000 paint job may be "worthy of a 300SEL" but it's not an economic proposition. Unless the car has some great sentimental value I would question the wisdom of such an expenditure. Virtually anything you get is going to be a catalyzed paint - that is it will be chemically hardening, not air dryed - it will be as hard as it will ever get within days. The best way " to be on top of the deal" is to go the book store (or library) and get a book on painting a car - $15 to $20.

My car is Gold, Lexus makes a new gold that has been out about 3 years that is very close to this mercedes gold it has just a little more luster to it. I do intend to spend a few buck on a good paint job and think $3000 is rather conservative for what I want.

tosbt: The thing is, your car's gold is 32 years old... paint fades over time! Or you wouldn't want/need a new paint job! The Lexus gold with more luster may look a lot like the stock Benz paint did 32 years ago.

Have you had your clearcoat start to peel yet? If not, this may be why you're losing luster - the clear coat tends to "flake off" because the sun kills it over time, it gets cloudy before it peels though.

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2021 Charger Scat Pack Widebody "Sinabee"
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1972 280SE 4.5
2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited "Hefe", 1992 Jeep Cherokee Laredo "Jeepy", 2006 Charger R/T "Hemi"
1999 Chrysler 300M - RIP @ 221k