Hi all, just wanted to let you know that I'm still struggling trying to find out exactly what's causing this slight pull to the left on my car. It pulls left during normal driving and gets worse under braking.

I have gone to several mechanics and no one can figure out the problem. One suggested alignment, but the alignment pros said that it was properly aligned.

My driver's side tire (just bought 6 months ago) is already showing excessive wear on the outer rim but the passenger side's one is O.K. (possible a bit worn there as well, compared with the rears. The tires I replaced months ago were worn bald on both outer rims on the front)

I also sometimes hear a slight squealing noise when making right turns, but I thought it might be the belt.

One mechanic said it could also be the lower control arm bushings ($$$!) that haven't been replaced yet (I did the uppers last year)

Any ideas ???

thanks,

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230.4 W115

I'm far from expert, but I have had a similar problem. Who did the alignment? Most tire shop type places cannot do a complete alignment on a Mercedes. I can't remember specifics, but there is some adjustment (toe in?) that Benz does that US laser type alignment machines aren't designed for. The car will track fine, and have no shimmy, but will drift left usually and wear the outside of the front left tire.

Creaks while turning are usually ball joints, and if they are bad alignment is impossible.

Toe must be set with a spreader bar on this car, or it will be way off while driving -- causes wander, pull, and excess tire wear.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!

Another possibility is where the steering box is bolted to the body. make sure there are no cracks and those bolts are torqued to spec. -CTH

__________________
- cth350@gmail.com
http://www.111lakeside.com/

Thanks guys, I did have one other person say that I should take it to the dealer for a proper alignment. That a normal alignment place wouldn't have the right tools to do it on a Merc.

I'll make an appointment with the dealer! (It takes up to 2 weeks to get in a dealership around these parts)

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230 W115

Slightly off topic, but when the upper controls arms where re-bushinged (word?) did you do it yourself or pay someone and if so, how much? US dollars if possible please

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

I had someone else install them and I believe parts and labour worked out to around $400 CDN, so about $300 U.S.

I understand there is a lot more involved in getting the lower ones done. My car used to creak over bumps and changing the uppers quieted it down and improved the ride somewhat.

You can probably get it cheaper if you get the parts from the fastlane or benzbin and then just pay for the labour.

Hope this helps.

AARON ROCHARD

1976 230 W115

Thanks arochard,

I really need to do the whole thing on my 115, front and back. I figure the hardest part will be spring removal and supporting the engine while the sub-frame is loose. I hope it isn't harder than pulling a cylinder head.

__________________
63 220S W111
76 300D W115
2013 VW JSW TDI M6

previously-
73 280 SEL 4.5
86 300E 5 speed
2010 VW Jetta TDI M6

Josh:

Are you doing control arms, ball joints, or subframe bushings?

You don't need to remove the springs for the subframe bushings, and don't need to support the engine, either.

Peter

__________________
1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!