Was down on dollars, just recently, but couldn't postpone oil change.

So, at Advance/Discount, bought the big jugs of their 20w-50 store brand oil. was on sale for $3.98 per 4-qt jug.

Put it in, and for first couple of days, great. Then seemed to deteriorate with temperature changes. Like it kind of lost its viscosity, causing motor to make slightly more noise, idle a bit rougher, you get picture.

Could this be? Oil had same SL rating/grade as Castroil, which I usually use. I had no illusions that it would last as long, but figured it would hold me for a month or so.

A,m I imagining things? Is this inferior oil? Does it make a noticeable difference?

Your thoughts, pelase.

What's the car and how many miles??

4 cylinder gasoline engines and *any* diesel are especially sensitive to quality of oil.

Dieseldog:

Car is a '77 450 SEL 4.5 V-8 (M117 euro).

I don't think I'm imagining things.

**However: problem.

Yesterday, I went out early and purchased Castrol 10W-40 ti put in. When I went to loosen the oil pan drain bolt, problem. I must have overtightened it last time, and gave up. Couldn't get the leverage, and I think I damaged some of the sharper edges on the bolt. It's not completely rounded at all, but do you think a shop could more likely get it loosened and off?

Bought myself a Fumoto Oil Valve http://www.fumotovalve.com/ for the diesel...... its a lever activated valve that replaces the drain plug. Draining will take longer as the opening is smaller, but its incredibly easy to use. Am glad to have made the upgrade.

I think everybody has used vice-grips on their drain plug at one time or another. If that's the allen bolt drain plug, all you've got is small edge for grabbing. There's a crush washer that fits behind the DP, new washers used to be included with oil filters.

Dieseldog:

thanks. Will look into the valve for the future.

No, I have a conventional - not allen - bolt on the drain hole.

Vice-grips. OK.

Take me through this. Don't want to make matters worse.

I don't have vice-grips. What's the best kind to buy, or maybe rent?

Can I use these successfully without jacking the car?

How should I use them?

I don't want to further ruin the bolt, which still has some angular edges on it.
Thanks.

Bob

They've got all sorts these days.... probably the ones you want have flat bite at end of jagged teeth, but not the needle nosed vicegrips - they always grip at an angle. Use the flat bite portion on standard vicegrip pliers. It's an $8 tool.

And do I grip it directly on the bolt?

Sorry, friend. Just don't want to make matetrs worse.

You think Auto Zone's got 'em? Or should I try Sears?

I'll bet virtually anyplace you walk in that has a hardware/tool section will have reputable vicegrips for sale. Use 'em directly on the bolt and have them clamped super tight so you do not further round off the head, that should be fine.

KPB:

That's really going to be much tighter and less likely to slip around than the 13mm wrench head or socket?

bob, if you have it clamped appropriately, it will not slip. I have had occasion to clamp some vicegrips on a recalcitrant part and then wham it with a hammer to break it free, so, if its on tight, it'll stay tight. Can be a pain then releasing the grip but your objective will have been accomplished by that time.

KPB:

Thanks!!
I'll let you know how it turns out.

If I have to replace the drain bolt, whre's the best place to get it? Or, since it's probably cheap enough, should I just get it from MB?

I'll play it safe, and get the new bolt first.

Bob: I take it you aren't familiar with Vice-Grips

I have removed COUNTLESS numbers of bolts and nuts with stripped heads with Vice-Grips (or just a plain pair of pliers)! They can apply far more torque than you think (And standard (water pump) pliers can apply more torque than vice-grips if you use them the proper way!)


These are $14 at Sears.


Just a quick bit of FYI on standard pliers (because I know MANY people who dont' know there's a proper way to use pliers):

ChannelLock pliers are my favorite tool because I can use the mto take off any size nut. A lot of people say they round off nuts but I'm here to say: NO, not if you use them right. You can take off a rusted, rounded nut easier with pliers than you may think!

If you look at the image of the ChannelLock, you see how it's positioned, ready to take on a nut or bolt. These pliers are currently in the position to TIGHTEN ONLY! You would NOT even THINK about using these to loosen, it would require more force to keep them together than it would to loosen the nut!

In the position they are in now, you only have to squeeze VERY lightly on the botom (fixed) jaw. You put most of your force on the top jaw and PUSH AS HARD AS YOU LIKE. They will not round off a nut, they WILL grip it with amazing torque.

I use ChannelLocks on my oil drain plug - I have one you need an allen key to get off and I never bought one. These work superbly in getting it off!

Remember, ALWAYS put your force on the movable (not fixed) jaw when using pliers, it'll make your life a LOT simpler! The reason is that the top jaw will automatically tighten itself around the nut - the more pressure you put on it, the tighter it grips! Those Sears pliers (RoboGrip?) are made for people who don't know this. I can't use them, they don't apply nearly as much torque as standard ChannelLocks!

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i took a bolt with a 14mm head and a couple nuts jambed together, to take the drain plug out

It's 14mm?

I thought it was 13mm?

Nope, it's 14 mm.

I use the bolt-and-nuts solution too, and it works fine.