Radiator options - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

joshhol · #1 03-29-2004, 04:56 PM

A new Behr radiator is over a thousand dollars. Don't believe me, ask Phil.

Since it is the source of all my problems, I need to do something about it. The rad shop said mine wasn't salvageable since it had been welded already, making it impossible for him to open it and rod it.

Seems to me, if you wanted to open that thing you could. But what other option do you recommend? I've found an aftermarket source for $179, but what can one expect?

Walter59SL · #2 03-29-2004, 05:19 PM

Can he put a new core in? How about rebuilding a used one? -W

JMela · #3 03-29-2004, 06:16 PM

If you're willing to go the used route, deanyel mentioned on a different post that Tri-Star Pete's (salvage yard) in Phoenix (800-522-4737) is soon to be no more and is getting rid of its inventory cheap.

ps. Just talked to Pete's on the phone and they thought they'd be around at least through June.

joshhol · #4 03-29-2004, 06:53 PM

Thanks,

I'd definitely go used if it's a decent radiator.

I asked Phil about a core but he didn't say anything about it.

So, at least I have some choices.

Mark DiSilvestro · #5 03-29-2004, 09:51 PM

Several years ago, I had a local radiator shop re-core my '72 250 radiator for less than $200. (I think a new radiator was over $500 at that time!) The radiator shop supplied the core. Is re-coring not an option?

Happy Motoring, Mark

joshhol · #6 03-29-2004, 11:34 PM

At the shop, the guy said that recore-ing would probably be about $300 bucks, about the same for what he thought a new rad should cost.
I could go for that rather than taking a chance on an aftermarket unit.

Thanks

Mark DiSilvestro · #7 03-29-2004, 11:48 PM

The price I paid included the core, supplied by the radiator shop. A competent radiator shop should be able to obtain a replacement core and fit it to your original radiator ends. The new core may not be completely identical to the original. In my case, the new core had smaller tubes but more of them and seemed to cool just fine.

Happy Motoring, Mark

joshhol · #8 03-29-2004, 11:55 PM

"Excellent"

. . .rubbing hands together like Monty Burns.

Russ114 · #9 03-30-2004, 07:20 AM

radiators are always repairable, just depending on how skilled the shop is..

(i know this from about 2 radiator rebuilds)

PS. when you put a 280 in a 250, make sure the radiator mounts are secure, or it falls in the fan.

300SDog · #10 03-30-2004, 11:25 PM

Probably the crappiest MB radiator of all times is the plastic version used in 123's........ notorious for becoming brittle with age and cracking the neck where often over-tightened hose clamps secure radiator hose to thermostat housing - frequently a fatal disaster that can take the engine with it.

Yet its been reported to me that an independent MB shop in Louisville is regularly marketing and installing cheap all-metal Subaru radiators into 123's.

Hell, it strikes me that taking radiator dimensions of height and width is all you need to do for finding reasonable junkyard replacement from God knows what kinda car that might fit. However, greater difference could exist for automatic tranny cooler fittings, which might require adaptors.

Otherwise, some folks are extremely picky about putting nothing but MB parts into their cars, i dont know why.

Tomguy · #11 03-30-2004, 11:30 PM

DDog: I'd imagine 4.5 replacement to be far more complex...

Radiator is one thing, tranny cooler another. But add in the room for the oil cooler as well and a place to mount all this on the replacement rad, and the time/cost of fabricating a replacement rad would probably exceed that of a used or recored Behr rad.

I soldered mine myself but I didn't get the ends (blocked by the support/mount brackets which I didn't remove) and now it leaks AT (and only at) the ends... lesson learned: Remove the whole top seam and redo the entire thing.

It wasn't hard for me to do myself but time-consuming to remove, unsolder, clean, solder, leak-test, solder, and reinstall.

300SDog · #12 03-31-2004, 12:54 AM

I agree Tom, the brass Behr is tough to beat...... its even good to look at if the paint gets scraped off.

But none of the features you've mentioned are unique to MB. The separate oil cooler could be mounted anywhere. And with Japanese aping western technology who the hell knows what kinda radiator possibilities exist if mounting dimensions and hardware are reasonably similar. Hell, you might even end up with increased cooling capacity..... say if you opted for wider radiator and mounted the oil cooler somewhere else.

Otherwise for sure its only on very rare occassions like the Subaru scenario for 123's that MB cars can be improved with illegal parts from alien vehicles.

Mark DiSilvestro · #13 03-31-2004, 09:59 AM

I've replaced a number of plastic-tanked Japanese radiators with aftermarket brass ones, usually made in Taiwan. Don't know if that option is availible for the W123 cars.
I've also 'emergency-mended' broken plastic hose necks on two W126 radiators, by fabricating metal sleeve inserts to epoxy with J B Weld into the holes. The first, on an '87 300SE has now lasted over 2 years. The second, on an '82 300SD, lasted several months until the owner sold the car so I don't know it's ultimate fate.
Supposedly, some radiator shops have the equipment to remove and replace plastic radiator tanks but I've never found such a shop around here.
Fortunately, all of my vehicle's radiators are from the pre-plastic era.

Happy Motoring, Mark

joshhol · #14 03-31-2004, 12:28 PM

What would be a better radiator, re-coring my original or buying a new aftermarket? Seems obvious but might be $100 less for the aftermarket.
What should I ask to determine the quality of the aftermarket piece?

Tomguy · #15 03-31-2004, 12:58 PM

Ask what it's made from:

The OEM rad is made of brass and copper (brass top and bottom and perhaps the channels, though they may be copper) and copper fins. Copper is a better thermal conductor in every aspect to aluminum.

Newer rads are usually 100% aluminum. It's probably 25% the weight which is good, but aluminum doesn't take too kindly to dents - it tends to crack more whereas brass or copper would bend.

It's hard to say what's better - aluminum is lighter and cheaper but might cause more corrosion than even a brass radiator, brass/copper is heavier but more durable and better at conducting heat. Aluminum rads tend to have less surface area (read: smaller coolant capacity/cooling capability).

Anything plastic is junk. What you want (if going aftermarket) is a radiator with the same, if not more, surface area (internal channel area) as the original - a simple check is how much fluid it can hold compared to the original - you don't want a rad with more fins but less channels. Being able to mount the oil cooler in a similar manner to stock would qualify it that much more, and if it has a tranny cooler built in as the original does, then it'd be a perfect match.